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8/12/2012

Things to do - Get off the boat -There are places to go - Bring Bicycles on your next Cruise to the San Juan Islands

       Bicycling the San Juans, may not describe our cruise last month, but we did bring three bicycles, and we did knock off about forty miles on San Juan Island.

At Friday Harbor with three bicycles, and yes the jib sheets caught on the handlebars on every tack.


      Last January I posted a short blog laying out a possible bike/hike/cruise scenario/itinerary that you could use as a planning building block for your own cruise. Bikes in the San Juans  Below is a quick summation of what we actually ended up doing.

      Our San Juan Island trip started at Shelter Bay LaConner on the Swinomish Channel.  We had just returned from a week long cruise into Hood Canal and after one night in our slip we cast off again at 5:30 am trying to beat the falling tide which would leave us trapped at the dock. With just inches or less to spare we sneaked across our shallow entrance shoal and slid into Swinomish Channel, and rode the remaining outgoing current all the way into Padilla Bay.  After a day of on and off winds and then really great afternoon sailing winds we arrived at 5pm and hailed the Friday Harbor Harbor Master staking claim to a slip for the next two nights.  A casual stroll around town, and live local music drifting down from the city's seawall  gathering esplanade contributed to a very relaxing evening on board. Not having tides or currents dictating our bicycling schedule allowed us to sleep in the next morning. Finally with hot coffee in hand, (okay, in the cup) I wandered up to Kings Market and purchased hash browns, eggs and some yummy impulse items to bring back to the boat for a late breakfast.

      Definitely before noon, (but not much) we walked our bikes off the floats and headed uphill, of course it's always going to be uphill when you start at sea level. We used a folded and wadded up, photocopied not to scale scrap of map for guidance and headed for Cattle Point. The roads were without bike lanes, but drivers were respectful and we had an easy ride to American Camp and then on to Cattle Point Lighthouse.  Fortunately the weather was clear and with no fog we had  views all the way to Vancouver Island and across the strait of Juan De Fuca. The Olympic mountains hung in the distance completing our postcard views.  Viewing Cattle Pass from up high was a thrill and brought into perspective what was previously a cockpit level chart image.  It was easy to see why the Americans chose this location to set up their cannons. From our vantage point we could scan the water route all the way back to Turn Island where our boat lay just around the corner.

      We brought cookies and water for lunch, and learned next time to bring lots more water and less cookies.

      There is no road right along the coast so we rode part way back to Friday Harbor before turning towards Lime Kiln Park. We encountered a few long steep grades which required walking for some of us. The cliff side views are stunning and it is somewhat difficult to ride safely while scanning the waters for Killer Whales.  I learned right away to stop if I wanted to really take in the sights. We followed a circle route taking us by the Lavender Gardens and back to town on a different road.

      I forgot and left my camera on  the boat so no pictures, sorry.  The next day we were fortunate to not have any soreness brought on by being out of shape and suddenly biking like we were still children. On the way back to La Conner we stopped by Spencer Spit for an afternoon hike, and then anchored at James Island. We hung around in the morning waiting for the rising  tide which we rode almost all the way to Shelter Bay.

      This cruise, in spite of motor problems (our diesel quit and forced us to use our 7.5 kicker for the entire trip) turned out to be one of our best, longest and most enjoyable.  I highly recommend planning a bicycle/cruise to any of the San Juan Islands.
John



8/01/2012

How many hp does it take to battle the current getting to the San Juans?

We are tied up in slip F23 at Friday Harbor for our second night and since we have free wifi I thought I would let you know what is going on right now.

Rosey in her slip at Friday Harbor marina
Guest slip at Friday Harbor



I can proclaim Rosey has made it to the San Juans, but the story is far from told.
As you know we started in La Conner and made a 160 mile detour into Hood canal.
At our farthest turn around point Roseys old engine chose to quit and we were forced to return to LaConner using our 7.5 hp Honda dinghy motor. After some discussion and a good nights sleep in our rented slip we decided to push on to San Juan Island at a maximum 4 mph and hope the wind would help out. The trip to Friday Harbor took about eleven hours overall. We had some following wind boost in Lopez sound, but when we turned the corner into Upright Channel things came to life and we had fantastic sailing right to the marina breakwater, at times our gps showed us 7.1 mph. Every tack required un-hooking jib sheets from handle bars, next time I load bikes I will try to improve the system.

Yesterday we rode our bicycles to Cattle Pass Point Lighthouse and then over to Lime Kiln Park, a distance of about 35 miles.  We had to walk up some of the hills and several jerks honked at us. None us of were really in shape, but today we feel good with no soreness so it worked out fine

Today we plan to head back with a stop at Spencer Spit and then spend the night at James Island while we wait for flood tide tommorrow morning, hopefully the current will  whisk us all the way to LaConner because our 4 mph speed is stopped dead by an opposing wind and current.

Spencer Spit on Lopez Island in the San Juan's
Spencer Spit
Rosey anchored at James island in the San Juan's
Anchored at James Island


So the answer to the "how many horsepower" question is 7.5 hp, but were not back to La Conner yet.
John
(for anyone that is curious - I switched to a 15 hp Honda and gained one mph in top speed and one mph in cruising speed - imho 15 hp is the correct outboard auxiliary power for a boat like Windrose (seven ton +-)

one week later from home:

OK, update time, first off, the four boat dock at James Island was full so we had to anchor out and dinghy to shore at the kayak campground for our campfire to cook hot dog and s'mores. Anchoring was a real chore, we tried setting the hook three times in two locations before I felt good enough to sleep through a tide change. We ended up with a Bahamian set using our grapple anchor for number two. Plus at Linda's urging I set Roseys antique sounder alarm at two fathoms, I slept like a rock until daylight. We waited for the current change and upped anchor around noon, as soon as we came around the end of James the kicker quit. For a moment I considered raising sail but decided trying to claw off a lee shore was a bad move. We had about a thousand feet before we would be in trouble, and knowing we could quickly drop three hooks I concentrated on fixing the kicker problem asap. Turned out the primer bulb was sucking air because the hose barb was broken halfway through, with a little realigning of the hose it started up and never quit again, but the problem obviously needs attention before we depend on it again. Once clear of James with the wind still on our beam we loosened both sails and made quick work of Rosario Strait. The wind held steady and the helping current up Guemes channel boosted us along at over 5mph right into Swinomish channel where the wind quit, but the current and kicker carried us up to LaConner in short order. With only one half mile left to reach Shelter Bay the current did an about face. Under Rainbow bridge I let the motor idle in neutral so I could measure the current with the gps, astonishingly we were already being swept back at 2 mph and losing fast. We quickly spun around and ran at wot to regain our lost ground and make it into the protected channel leading to our moorage. Luckily we gave our selves just enough time to make it, an hour or so later would have been a nightmare current possibly forcing us to anchor in the channel somewhere waiting for the current change.

Sunrise in saratoga passage sailing the san juan's
Sunrise from shore from Langley on Whidbey Island in Saratoga Passage

All systems running before engine gave up
see the old spinning flashing light depth sounder? (very nostalgic)

navy blockade off Hood canal for submarine
Stopped by Navy for submarine while crossing to Port Ludlow

Lonely Rosey is only guest at Pleasant Harbor on Hood Canal, btw hot showers, wifi come with slip fee

Camp Parson Boy Scout Camp at Jackson Cove on Dabob Bay (Hood Canal)
 We anchored at Camp Parsons and went ashore for the Campfire on Jaidens last night of summer camp. Our primary reason for making trip up Hood Canal was to pick up Jaiden  and then head north to our planned bicycle trip around San Juan Island. In the morning after all the scouts had departed in their many cars we discovered Rosey's engine had given up for good. With only our 7.5 kicker and three gallons of gas our options were limited.  With the help of Quintin in Portland via cell phone, google maps, and an upcoming beer festival for incentive. We were directed five miles to Seabeck where I anchored and took the dinghy to shore.  I then hitched a ride with some local fisherman to Home Depot, purchased four five gallon gas cans and returned with enough fuel to complete our journey.


Our first trip with Rosey is behind us now, we spent twelve days, covered over two hundred sea miles, 35+ bicycle miles, got held up by a nuclear sub, what a great time.


   Here is a follow up about Roseys not starting that morning.  It turned out the shut down lever was still pulled out due to a weak spring or whatever, and after an aggravating but sorta adventurous ordeal I discovered the  issue, pushed the lever, and she started up and has ran fine ever since. So operator error or something like that hits again.   


6/30/2012

GPS woes - what this skipper thinks he wants and reality

inexpensive chart plotter and gps lap top
I mean inexpensive


     I need some help, (opportunity knocks) I know our last cruise had some gps problems but I don't remember the specifics. All I really remember was that I decided I should get a new gps because my old Magellan could not be trusted or was failing somehow. Being a frugal boater and not having unlimited resources makes it difficult to shell out $400+ for a hand held battery eating device I only use in the fog or to measure distance to my next anchorage. I stopped by a web site or fifty and came away more confused after reading reviews from techies, hunters, hikers, and arm chair skippers. I wish I could just rely on someone to tell me what to buy after hearing my list of wants.

  1. it needs to be battery powered, aaa or aa with a 12V helm plug in
  2. rugged enough to be dropped once in awhile (water resistant too)
  3. day light visible display about 2.5" or bigger (ok a lot bigger)
  4. on board chart for my area (duh) and not an extra $200 fee, and they must include Canada's Vancouver and Gulf islands.
  5. it needs to display nav aids at a minimum, just like my chart
  6. I want a speedometer and bearing readout
  7. I want it to work inside the cabin, or at least by the windows
  8. it needs to boot up in less than 5 minutes
  9. I like my nav aids in color, especially the red ones, but not if it's too many $$$
  10. I want to have local level streets shown for hikes
  11. it should fit in my pocket
  12. it should be dependable, and last, and last, and last
I'm sure I have other wants, I'll add later,
here is what does not matter to me (much) (maybe)

  1. upgrade ability
  2. connectivity to a laptop, or chart plotter
  3. altimeter
  4. emergency radio or locator beacon (if it costs boat dollars)
  5. e-mail, forecasts or anything confusing that is more dollars
  6. more memory for charts of other areas
  7. phone numbers of business, etc if it's extra  $$
  8. mfd, multifunction display or depth or radar, (just go away, your too wealthy for this blog)
  9. floating is nice, so is waterproof but I can pass if more $$
  10. Are we getting an idea that costs are paramount to me?
About gps and the San Juan trailer sailor.
In my opinion you can get by without a gps just like boaters have done for centuries, but it is a really handy piece of equipment, and fun to share info with others on board, and truly a marvelous aid in foggy conditions.  What you can not do without, is a chart, a compass, a depth sounder, pfd's and all the other Coast Guard required safety gear.
Okay, lest I have mislead someone, I believe you need a gps in the fog but you could simply stay in port or go another direction.  Boating blindly in fog with any current is a recipe for disaster.


I am adding to this post to tell you readers what I finally came up with.
Read about it by following this link >>  My new gps is awesome and very inexpensive








5/16/2012

Best Dinghy Beaches (and worst) in the San Juan Islands

     What makes a good dinghy beach? Scroll to the bottom for my number one and number two choices when sailing the San Juan Islands

        At first I was just going to list some features good dinghy beaches share, then I realized San Juan newcomers  may need or want a warning to help in trip planning. So lets be clear, just because a beach is considered a good dinghy beach does not mean it is worthy of a visit and conversely, if someone says the beach is no good for dinghy's does not mean you should not plan a stop over. Forewarned is forearmed or something like that.

       In my opinion a good dinghy beach allows you to get to shore and back to the boat with a minimum of fuss and bother.
In no particular order, lets make a list of likes and dislikes.

  • not getting feet wet getting into and out of dinghy is really nice.
  • ditto for all tide levels, so the angle (slope) of the beach is crucial
  • gravel versus mud is a no brain-er 
  • sand is better than mud, but both track into dinghy and back to the boat (gravel doesn't track)
  • something nearby to tie the painter to, like a massive old log
  • a cool view of my boat when I turn around
  • a nearby restroom is handy
  • not smelling like dead seaweed is a plus
  • fires permitted and driftwood is always nice for evenings
  • nearby tide pools for exploring
  • security is something some spots lack (theft of dinghy or contents)
  • free roaming dogs! or other wildlife
  • how about a lack of bugs and bird droppings
  • what about western view of the setting sun
  • protection from weather driven waves
click on -read more- to find my two best dinghy beach choices

4/09/2012

Mooring Buoys in Parks are for you to use but watch out!

Not much needed here, except a few comments.

Of course  buoys  are first come first served and you are not allowed to tie your dinghy to one as a way to reserve or save it. But what are you going to do if you find one with a dinghy tied to it? Set it free! No of course not.

Which brings up road rage or should we coin a new term? how about -water rage- or -cruiser rage- boat rage- island rage-   For the most part, boaters seem to leave their rage on shore, but if you pay much attention to the vhf you may think otherwise.

Back to buoys, mooring buoys are supposed to have a blue stripe, and most of the parks are close enough, putting a stripe on an old tire is a little tough.
mooring buoy's in the San Juan Island's

Around the populated areas you may find lots of buoys, most are likely to be private, none are OK to use without permission.


A word to the wise, don't trust buoys any further than you can tow them.
Some are not maintained and break loose when you are asleep or ashore.
Some may be in shallow water, or even be on the ground at low tide (check your depth) or have lots of rope, and flotsam dangling from them.  (yes, park buoys)


I think when you hook onto a buoy where you plan to leave valuable property tied up,  you should back down as if you were setting your anchor, but that's just me.  >> read this post  Anchor Buoy breaks free at Jones Island
Some other time we can talk about cleats and rotten old floats.

Navigation Aids (buoys and markers) red/green lights

    In keeping with this sites mission, I thought just a few (all I know) bits of information are in order.
If you're an old salt, skip right past this post, but first timers or part-time first mates may find something useful.

      Aids to navigation are the road signs of  our waterways, and just like driving a car down the highway you wouldn't think of not knowing or understanding some basic safety rules. Consider a three year old driving toward you on the road,  he can't reach the brakes, he can't read the stop sign, he doesn't know which side of the road to drive on.  Now picture yourself driving your shiny new boat in a busy waterway or dangerous channel.  No brakes, check!, confusing striped buoys, check!, parallel park a boat, oops, check!.  You owe it to other boaters to understand a few rules,or at the very least have lots of liability insurance. Speaking of insurance, does your insurance cover damage to your boat and passengers and the mega monster and passengers that you hit?


     The three R's (3 aaarrr's) rrr. is a  nautical mnemonic you should memorize  "Red, Right, Returning" That's it, everyone knows it, everyone uses it, so should you.
Another cool nautical mnemonic for you is, "a good red wine is port" which will remind you that all boats running lights will have a red on the port side bow, which leaves green for the starboard side bow

    3R's "red, right, returning" means to me, keep the red buoys on my right when returning from sea. So this means keep the green ones on your left. Returning from sea would also be heading up river.  As a practical usage, one would approach and enter a strange marina keeping the red markers on his right. See, already you're keeping off the rocks.  Of course there are a few places where local conditions dictate other rules.  For example, Swinomish Channel has red buoys on the right at both ends of the passage.

    What good is knowing which side of a boat (or big ship) the red and green lights are on?  I'll tell you why but first you need to turn off the sun and go boating at night, next when you see a red light coming at you adjust your course so you don't collide. OK, now what if its a green light is coming towards you? OK, now what if the green light changes to red and then back to green? What if the light is both green and red? I'm just a little confused and so are others. Out on the water these are the signals that boaters use to tell others what their intentions are, and there is no confusion if you remember a few rules.
Remember this  "a good red wine is port"   It means the red light is on the left side (port) of the boat.  Following normal rules of the road you would meet other boats keeping to the right, just like on the highway, so you pass each other red to red (port to port).  OK when you see a red, then green, then red changing again, and again, it means they are turning back and forth. A steady red/green at the same time means the other vessel is more or less pointed at you. OK, now when you wander back and forth steering your boat like a drunken... you can imagine what message your lights are sending out over the dark waters. 

      Some wisdom learned the hard way:
 When navigating in darkness and the lights you are watching go out (as in you can't see them suddenly) it may mean something is in the water between you and the lights, let's see what could be blocking the view. A headland, another boat, a reef or rock, a piling, your crews head. What it means is you better stop or slow down and figure out immediately why the lights are blinking.

Just for fun I looked up some other sayings:

When all three lights I see ahead,
I turn to Starboard and show my Red:
Green to Green, Red to Red,
Perfect Safety -- Go Ahead.

Red over Red The Captain Is Dead
Vessel not under command



Danger Signal: Blast quick five To stay alive
This is the danger signal, to be given if you think there is confusion or imminent danger of a collision.
It's also the signal the ferry boat will blast at you if you're being stupid.

"I wonder if there's any red port wine left," OK, I got it now, red on left and port means left.


Below are  a few buoys that need to be understood
navigation buoys aids and what they mean


The top band marks the preferred channel



navigation buoys aids and what they mean

Safe water, the above buoys  may be passed on either side

navigation buoys aids and what they mean
Stay away, these buoy mark rocks and bad things.
(check your chart)


The below buoys are your sign posts,
 odd numbers on green, even on red, 
the same numbers are on your chart.
Red Right Returning  3rrr's
navigation buoys aids and what they mean in the san juan's
The above striped marker demands your attention, slow down or stop
 until you figure out where you are.

Many times individuals will make a buoy/marker out of a jug or old fender.
Do yourself a favor and use caution, there is a reason for the marker, and watch out for a trailing line if its floating free, you don't need something wrapped around your propeller.


If you had a chart, you would be able to spot nav. aids on chart
 and figure out where you are and what to do.
I use NOAA chart number 18421, it has an 80,000 scale. I prefer this chart because it shows most of the area I like to cruise on one chart. You may wish to have a larger scale and more charts
here is the url for noaa chart 18421  http://www.charts.noaa.gov/OnLineViewer/18421.shtml
here is the noaa index for other charts in the Pacific Coast area http://www.charts.noaa.gov/OnLineViewer/PacificCoastViewerTable.shtml


By the way, if you're using your chart for trip planning purposes you may like non navigation charts/maps better.  We find a fish-n-map chart inexpensive and very useful.
Our favorite for planning is a full color waterproof laminated tourist map with topo lines, but does not show depth or rocks.


A warning some boaters don't heed,

Please don't take off anywhere with just your chart plotter or portable gps, iphone, or whatever gadget is popular today. You really need to have a hard copy chart or map. (and a compass too)  If it just sits rolled up in the corner that's fine. You probably don't use your whistle, flares, pfd's, or any number of emergency items either, but you still carry them.







4/07/2012

"HELP" I need some comments (empathetic criticizer)

Sometimes you can loose track of the little picture when you see only what you want.

This web site may run into a whirlpool and begin spinning in circles if I am left to my own devices, so I'm asking readers to make comments, and tell me whats working.


  • should I begin including info that's not from or relating to the San Juan area
  • How about non boating stuff
  • more or less pictures
  • more or less text
  • does anyone care about personal projects or ?
At the bottom of every page or post is a comment box, that's where you say your two cents.
Thanks
 BTW you can e-mail me if you connect some links

3/25/2012

Trailer Hauling Tips for Newcomers


 Someone told me they thought this article had some merit, 
so I re-posted it here,     you decide.   


Trailer hauling tricks and no no's
Just because it's on a trailer, doesn't mean you should haul it down the highway

Windrose, New Bombay pilothouse 31 tsunami rescue on trailer
See the Bombay Project for a blow by blow description of this tsunami rescue

I tried to find a suitable article written by someone with firsthand experience pulling trailers.  All the ones I found were pretty worthless so I wrote an article myself.  I have many years hauling around construction equipment, boats and camp trailers.  Rather than try to put together something sensible, I will just do a Q&A thing. This article may entertain you old timers and help a few newbie’s.  If you disagree with something, feel free to post comments.

  • First frequently asked question is “how much can my car/truck haul?  The answer requires more  questions. Do you mean safely? Without voiding warranty? How far? Any big long hills? Auto or clutch? Make model and condition?  As you can see it’s a complicated question, so let’s cut to the chase.  On the door jamb of your car is a tag with the factory approved weights your vehicle is designed to carry and tow.  If you are trying to limit your liability in an accident you should heed the numbers.  You can easily exceed load limits without being aware, if you do you may shorten the life of your automatic transmission, you may overheat, you may not have the experience to stay out of trouble.

  • Next; “ how much tongue weight should I have”One rule of thumb is    click on "read more"  

2/14/2012

Cruisers Packing List - don't forget the ?

      If your a beginner to the San Juans as well as a beginner to cruising (boat camping) you may find some useful advice here.  But some people don't like being told what to bring or what not to bring, or ask for directions when they are hopelessly lost.  So stop right here if you recognize yourself, and move on.

boating packing list


        Okay, now that the captain and skipper have quit reading lets see if we can ease the pain somewhat.  I'm not going to try to be all inclusive here, but just some little reminders to get you thinking about your cruise.  Obviously you have a spotless well equipped boat and many things are already on board.
  • I'll bet you don't have an underwater flashlight, they are great for teasing sea creatures after dark, and will add hours of entertainment time to answer your children's "I'm bored" comments. (hint, stick a cheap flashlight in a ziplock bag) Now tie it to the end of your boat hook and poke it under water
  • How about heavy duty zip lock bags, or the ones they sell at the outdoor outfitter stores for river running, you know for your cell phone, ipod, camera, wallet, etc, etc, etc.....
  • speaking of waterproof have you got any good wood matches in a waterproof container?
  • here's one you really miss and then its too late  - chap-stick with spf 99 (how high do the #'s go?)
  • remember that hat that blew off into the water?  ditto for glasses!  you need a chin strap or leash.
  • OK, this is a good one, get a second or third corkscrew, uh huh! (try em at home to make sure they work well)
  • Dramamine in all forms for everyone
  • cheap little led flashlights, lots of em, they're cheap
  • plastic kites for beach fun, don't forget the string
  • multi-function tool that you carry in your pocket all the time
  • boat cleaning supplies, wax, polish, paint thinner to remove tars you track on board with your shoes. We seem to do our heavy cleaning while on a cruise, I see others doing the same.
  • misc. boat repair supplies and tools. (sail tape) get a bottle of soft scrub it's my best friend (paint thinner too)

These are just some starter ideas, feel free to add your favorites.
Since some folks really benefit from in depth detailed instructions and are lost without to-do lists, I have added below a list created for a general travel article.
Click here and read more >>>>>

1/22/2012

why you should use "Active Captain"

This may seem like a blatant promotion for a web site, well duh! but before you go cruising, you should check out www.activecaptain.com  You owe it to yourself and crew to be informed. A picture is worth a thousand words, or maybe much more in this case. These snapshots only capture a small amount so I snapped three to really show how much is available, and I left off the local knowledge label so you could go look it up yourself.

All the pictures include the area from Victoria to Bellingham to Anacortes, which means you may have to scroll to view entire picture. Remember, these are snapshots, you need to go to web site for functions to work (try clicking on pics for a bigger view)
  Red markers show marinas and docks

Yellow markers show navigation warnings

Green markers show comments and reviews from cruisers like me and you
Nothing works because these are snapshots, you need to go to the real web site

1/21/2012

How to Bicycle Between San Juan Island, Lopez Island, Shaw and Orcas Island Without a Car

Bicycling the San Juan Islands
       
  For most people, bicycling the San Juan's means arriving with your bike and gear in a car on a Ferry.


But it doesn't have to be this way. Savvy cyclists leave their cars in Anacortes and ride the ferry to the San Juan Islands.  Once in the islands bicycle travel is the way to go.



First let's explore a likely scenario for those without a boat, bear with me, this will get a little wordy:




      You drive to Anacortes and find a place to park for free for a week, maybe more. Or park at the ferry terminal long term parking lot for about $40 per week. Next, jump on the ferry paying a small nominal fee for one passenger and bicycle for a lift to Friday Harbor on San Juan Island, or Orcas, or Lopez, or Shaw.  FYI: foot passengers and bicyclists never need reservations or need to wait in line like car travelers.
So far so good!



      The day is still early, start touring (ride your bike). At the end of the day you will end up in a motel, B&B, campground, or any number of resorts.  You probably will be well advised to have some reservations lined up in advance. Oh, and bring a pocket full of cash because restaurants and beds aren't free. The next day tour around some more then jump on the free for foot passengers Ferry to other Islands and repeat. Eventually you will end up back in Anacortes where your car is waiting for the drive home.



      This is a great plan if you are into minimalist and don't have a boat, but there are a few weaknesses; number one, where is all my extra gear that I take when I travel, oh yeah its back in the car parked in Anacortes while I'm gallivanting around on an island with nothing but my pocket full of cash and what fits in my bike bags. (not good for some of us) Excellent plan if your a hard core bicyclist. Number two doesn't matter, I'm still back on number one.


Ok, here's the boating/bicycling scenario:  

1/16/2012

WHY own A BOAT? and for me "Why a Sailboat" when what I really want is to go camping somewhere in the San Juan Islands


      Why a boat? is a fair question, and one usual quick answer is, "why not a boat"
Aha! got me again, remember if you don't like the answer, ask a better question.  Okay, how about this question,  "why take a boat for a cruise instead of taking a car and camping?" Now were getting somewhere;
WHY A BOAT?
Spending most of our lives on land, a boat, at least for me, offers wide open spaces, freedom, and much more. The journey is my desire, my wish, my goal, the destination is simply a mark on the chart, a mere way point in life. The boat is at once a complicated machine I must master, or at least control, and yet a simplistic drifting raft,or racing hydro-foil will also fill the bill. While journeying by water my mind is filled with the pressing matters at hand, what course is safe, what hazards lay ahead, are we drifting toward that menacing lee shore,  will we clear the point, should we tack now or risk thin water, what is that new sound? motion? vibration? Looking ahead I see a rock, a quick glance at the gauge hints at the waters depth, the rock is gone, now it appears to one side, as we glide closer I see it has eyes and a nose. I feel a mariner's connection, and an urge to wave, but no response is forthcoming. Anxiously checking the depth again, I'm ready to start the motor; The wind shifts, the sails fill, a little gust, and the lines pull taut. Looking up the mast to the top, I see the wind-vane has changed direction and is  pointing 90 degrees to starboard. The sails hanging like billowy white clouds floating above the boat are spilling wind, I let out the main sheet, and slack the jib.  click on read more...

1/02/2012

Step by Step guide and Itinerary for making that Dream Boat Trip to the San Juan Islands

     This cruise itinerary is for the first timer with the boat on a trailer. The novice skipper with family for crew will find this article contains just what's needed to get going on that long talked about trip to the San Juans. While this is a step by step action plan to follow, some skippers do not need all the steps and prodding and so they should skip ahead to      Day #1.  for the daily itinerary  

For the rest of us, these steps are important, so I've numbered them.
  Before you go

  1. Right now, go put two marks on the calendar. Mark the day of departure from home and one week or so later mark the day your returning. Do it now or forever hold your peace and admit your not really going boat camping in the San Juans.
  2. Go to your local chandlery or go online and purchase a big color map or chart of the San Juans. I'm not telling you which one, it doesn't matter, just big and one you like to look at.
  3. Got the map? Good now nail it to the wall where you can see it all the time. Do it now!  OK, the hardest part is over, you have now made a commitment to yourself and crew. Your really going.  Kick back a little, relax, do some day dreaming.  Your trip (cruise, vacation, what ever you want to call it) is already well underway. By now you should be  getting into the  excitement that comes with planning and preparations.    Note:   Don't let worry and stress build up, your really going to enjoy this outing and it will be easy, trust me  (heh, heh, heh)  Relaxing good times should be part of the  process that started when you made the X on the calendar. Remember, on this cruise there are no deadlines to meet, no times to beat, no "sorry no vacancy's" to worry about. You are on your own schedule to do as you please. What could be better besides a gourmet chef and staff.  Study the map with your crew, locate Friday Harbor, Jones Island, and Squalicum Harbor in Bellingham. Do some internet searches, read peoples reviews.
  4. Start compiling a list of supply's and provisions that you think you need. Click here for help with that list >>  Cruisers Packing List this list may be a little too much, so pick and choose.
  5. Start making a list of boat and trailer, must do's (like greasing the wheel bearings) I mention wheel bearings because there are a few "must do's" that will potentially ruin your plans, having a bearing go out from your neglect is avoidable, so are boat motor issues. We once went with an untested, worrisome diesel motor, and sure enough it quit, but because of suspected problems I had mounted an outboard bracket and brought my trusty 7.5 hp Honda along which not only saved the trip, but allowed us to extend it a few days.  Another time with a different boat I towed a dinghy which sole purpose was to carry a spare outboard just in case.   Another mistake not to make is inadequate packing for inclement weather, (hope for warm sunny days, but plan for cold windy rain).  Don't forget seasickness pills (Dramamine)  or other medication, one persons needs could ruin the trip. There must some other must do's that are particular to your family??? Spare tire for trailer! Hmm!
  6.  #5 was a downer, lets lighten up.  You need to bring an ice chest if your boat has none, maybe two, plan on ice lasting 3-4 days and then resupply time.  For a food menu, you should plan to eat well, especially if you have bad weather when hot food hits the spot and improves spirits. Sandwiches are easy to prepare and bring lots of trail mix and snacks.  You will need lots of water, don't plan on any being available once you shove off. We bring our water in 5 gallon jugs and pour it into smaller bottles
  7. You will need a propane cook stove and fuel bottles to last entire trip (propane is $7+ in the islands)
  8. Garbage:  I need to mention it now after suggesting you bring all the junk food.  Your little boat will quickly become overrun with trash, bring bags, the outside islands have no garbage service. Think about all that convenience food packaging material I just told you to bring.  Some of the packaging may be left at home. Prepare things in advance and freeze meals ready to go as they thaw (2-4 days in ice chest)
  9. Under boat equipment, the list is very subjective so lets just list a few must haves.  PFD's all around and all coastie required equipment (whistle, type 4, fire ext., registration, lights, etc) Plus I think you need a minimum of two anchors and extra rode, extra fuel if your tank is small.  Your boat should have a range of 75 miles. The rule is 1/3 outbound, 1/3 to get back, 1/3 for reserve. It could be 25 miles between fuel stops, so a 75 mile range gives a good cushion. Many boaters simply tie 5 gallon jugs on deck.  If your boat is open and it really rains hard, bring a tarp and ropes to lash it down. You may sleep on shore so a tent is needed. You need a hand bilge pump and a bucket (they look like a big suction tube and flex hose.
  10. Bring a GPS,  You can get by without one but they are fun and really are useful. Some phones have apps available. Bring your cell phone (they work good almost everywhere) Bring the map or chart nailed on the wall or better yet go buy a real navigation chart with depths and rocks all located.  Bring a compass (hand held is OK) Bring a vhf marine radio (you can buy a portable battery one for about $100.   
  11. The boats loaded your ready to go. Don't forget to tell someone where your going, and when to call for help if you don't check in as planned. That person could be a friend or relative that doesn't panic over  icky weather reports.  They should call the San Juan County Sheriff or Coast Guard if needed, or someone you have prearranged to call, 911 works too. Remember, your plans may change as the week progresses, but you can check in with a cell phone call most of the time.
Time to go 
San Juan Island trip itinerary
The blue line indicates general route, red dots are overnight stops. 80 miles

Squalicum Harbor map
Squalicum Harbor Marina - red dots = boat ramp, restaurant, showers, parking, guest docks
  1.   Day #1  Your destination is Squalicum Harbor in Bellingham. (not Anacortes) Squalicum has the best boat ramp around, and free long term parking for your trailer and tow rig. Cap Sante in Anacortes has a sling and pay to park.  You can arrive and take right off but I would plan to spend the first night at the guest dock or in your parked rig. Do not cast off unless you are sure you will have enough light to make it to your anchorage or marina. Navigating in the dark is risky business and requires more of you than you bargain for, and may easily become a really stressed vacation.  Its still daylight until around 9pm, so if you arrive around  6pm there is plenty of time to get the boat launched, go shopping, eat in a restaurant, hang out.  The marina has bathrooms, showers, lots and lots of parking.  If your the worrier on this trip and need to talk to people, you can call them during regular business hours.  The launch fee and guest dock payments are made at a self serve kiosk, you could arrive at midnight, its a 24 hour deal.  No stress, just show with your boat.
  2.   Day #2   In the morning, you can eat at the restaurant overlooking the marina next to the bathrooms, (the food is good and priced right) jump in the car and run to Walmart or just cast off at sun up. I like to walk around and talk to other boaters coffee cup in hand.
  3. Your destination is Echo Bay at Sucia Island, its about 20 miles so you will have plenty of time even if you hang around Squalacum until early afternoon.   If you get there a little earlier you will have time to hike and explore, or maybe first go to Fossil bay where you may get a spot at the dock.  Of course tying up to an anchor buoy or the dock requires a fee whereas                                                                                   anchoring is free.
  4. Sucia Island Chart
    Sucia Island with Echo Bay and Fossil Bay marked with red dots
  5.   Day #3   On this day you may want to stick around Sucia for some exploring, fishing, or kayaking if it suits you. You could easily spend several days just hiking.  
  6. Lets up anchor at noon, our destination is Jones Island, a distance of only 12 miles.  On the way to Jones you may want or need to stop at West Beach resort/marina on Orcas.  West beach is right on the way and wont add much time or distance to this leg.  At West Beach you can get fuel, waffle ice cream cones, ice and groceries. West Beach is just past Point Doughty on Orcas (check your chart/map and find pt Doughty) Did you bring binoculars, they will be helpful in spotting some far off places across the water and West Beach is one of those places? Once again, like Sucia, if you get to Jones early you may get a space at the dock, but you can always snag a buoy or anchor for free. Jones is pretty small but about perfect, you can beach comb, explore, kayak or hike trails, circling the island in about an hour.
  7. Jones Island
    Jones Island chart
    Jones Island
  8. Plan to stay a day or two at Jones it could easily be your favorite stop, it is mine.
  9.   Day #4   But it could be day 5 or 6 if your getting into the boat traveling thing.
  10. Once again there is no need to take off early, but by now you may have noticed that currents play a big roll in passage times, and fuel used. I check my current charts and then ignore them mostly, but at least I know what to expect. Leave Jones Island in your wake and set course for Friday Harbor, no need to rush, its only 5 miles and they never turn boaters away. You can make a reservation for a slip in advance but there really is no need and its nice to not have a rigid schedule.  You can also just stop by for a few hours for free and walk around town, buy souvenirs and provisions and then move on.  I recommend on your first trip that you spend the night at Friday Harbor, visit the Whale Museum, hang around town and waterfront goings on, eat at the many places, and above all by now you will be wanting a shower, which is available right on the docks.  When you arrive near the breakwater, you can call the Harbormaster on the radio or use your cell phone, or simply tie up at the outer dock, sometimes they have a little harbormaster shed office out on the end and you can talk across the water.  It's all very simple and low key, even after hours  when the security people will take care of you. One visit we rented a slip for two nights while we bicycled around San Juan Island.
  11. Friday harbor 
    Friday Harbor chart
    Friday Harbor 
  12.   Day #5    Check out time is after lunch sometime so again, no rush. Set course for Rosario in East Sound on Orcas Island.  The distance is about 11 miles and you may end up with a modest current either for or against your plans, you may want to arrange your transit according to favorable currents.  See current guide info right here  >> Current Atlas  <<    Around Friday Harbor is a lot of boat traffic and you will see more than one ferry for sure, don't worry, just use your common sense.  On your way to Rosario you may want to take a little side trip over to Olga for a short stop over at the public dock, (Olga is also on Orcas just south of Rosario) when you get to Rosario you will be able rent a slip, hang on a buoy or anchor out. Rosario resort has some nice grounds, restaurants, provision store, fuel, and tours of the Mansion turned museum. Because you will probably have time to kill I would seriously consider showing up later in the day or making your visit a two hour stop over and then move on to another stop for the night.
  13. Rosario picture 
    Rosario resort picture
    Rosario (Mansion/Museum is in lower left, marina restaurant at top
  14. An alternate stop would be past Rosario at East Sound where they have a public dock.
  15. Another alternate stop just a little further, but heading more toward your car at Squalicum would be Pelican Beach on Cypress Island.  Pictorial  >> Pelican Beach pictorial  << Pelican Beach has about 4 or 5 buoys and we have always been able to squeeze in and anchor.  In a pinch you can run half a mile down to Eagle Harbor where they have 18 or so buoys. BTW Cypress is DNR land so everything is free (no buoy or camping fees) If your into hiking this is probably the best around. The beach is a favorite for kayakers from Bellingham and Anacortes, expect to enjoy good conversation around the many campfires lining the beach.
  16. Pelican Beach map here  
    Pelican Beach chart
    Pelican Beach on northeast end of Cypress Island

  17.   Day #6   Today's destination is Squalicum Harbor and head for home. Its about 15 miles so it will take a some time.  By now you should have a pretty good idea of your boats ability to get around and deal with wind and currents. Bellingham Bay seems to go on forever, especially when the elements are lined up against you. 
  18. If you have time for a quick lunch stop on the way, you should really consider dropping hook in Inati Bay on Lummi Island
  19. Inati bay map 
    Lummi Island, Inati Bay chart
    Inati Bay on southeast side of Lummi Island
  20.   Plan your departure from Cypress so you arrive back at Squalicum with time to load up and head for home, or I recommend you plan one more night on the boat at the visitor/guest docks at Squalicum Harbor.  This way you will be showered, fed and refreshed in the morning and have the whole day to load up and drive towards home. In my opinion driving home in the dark after a long last day of boating is no way to wind up a relaxing vacation.
That's it
  • I hope I was able to give you the incentive, motivation and pertinent information to get going on that first trip to the San Juan Islands.  My recommendations are by no means all that there is to see and do. Please do some research and modify my suggestions to suit your situation, for instance it is entirely possible to stay at resorts and eat in restaurants every night. The more budget minded may choose to anchor out everywhere.  (yes you can anchor next to the docks at Friday Harbor and then paddle over to their dinghy dock, no charge) You may also start and end at Cap Sante, La Conner, Deception Pass, or even start out far far south in Olympia like we did once.


12/26/2011

Christmas has come and gone, so where is my new boat?

I actually had hopes that somehow, in some unbelievable fashion, I would get my long wanted pilothouse sailboat for a present. Maybe under the tree would be a little card in a plain manila envelope, and inside would be a photo of her at a dock somewhere. There would be a big red bow on the cabin roof or around the main boom. "Pop" goes the bubble of my dream world, Christmas has come and gone, and I'm still waiting for my new boat (new to me) to magically appear. If you see my new boat out there somewhere, please let me know, I really need to start outfitting her for next summer's cruises.
BTW my birthday is in April.

See my belated Christmas present >> New Bombay Pilothouse Project

12/20/2011

Why go to Cypress Island? Just go somewhere else - Please

        I hesitate to write about Cypress Island, my impulse is to keep the secret.

     For some, Cypress Island is a destination. For others it's just a stop on the way to somewhere else.
For me, it's a dependable refuge that I return to again and again.

        This selection of images is from Pelican Beach on Cypress Island.  The beach is very dinghy friendly. Pelican Beach should be visited for one hour or overnight, or you are missing out on something truly special.

cypress island eagle cliff hike




Pelican beach campsites





Cypress island, Pelican beach

Find your own trail on Cypress

Please use this link for all the other parks and keep Cypress secret.

11/24/2011

Using Current Charts Will Get You a Free Ride in the San Juan Islands - Riding the Current North in Burrows Bay

      Who ever said there's no free ride has never been to Burrows Bay. If you are a kayaker and your kayak paddle is  getting heavy, or your in a putt-a-putt puttster boat and need another knot of speed, you should know that the current pretty much  always flows north in Burrows Bay.
        Don't believe me, check your current atlas and find a day of the year or time of day that the current is forecast to flow south.

        Burrows Island and Allan Island are strategically located to create a whirlpool counter current within the bay, so along the shore is a dependable northward current at all times.

      What this means is that when you are cruising from Deception Pass north to Anacortes, or anywhere north, in Rosario Strait, it will pay you to come in close to the eastern shore and get a little boost. Of course if you're heading south you should stay out in Rosario Strait.
        Hugging the shore in Burrows Bay  will get you about 4 miles of free current to ride. Wouldn't it be great if all the channels and passages were this helpful, this back and forth tidal thing is nice, but doesn't always  keep to my schedule.

11/05/2011

How Small of a Boat is Too Small, for the San Juan Islands?

Using common sense and smart practices, just about anything that floats has a time and place. Hobie 16's - 14's - inflatable kayaks, canoes and hundred foot palaces, all work for cruising and boat camping in the San Juan Islands.





If you look in the background of these three pictures, you see calm tranquil waters
While its true much of the summer you can expect these conditions, you should still be prepared for some nastiness.

Being prepared sometimes means simply changing your schedule so as to not get caught in the middle of Haro strait during a blow. Or worse, accepting your fate and being  forced to spend an extra night at Jones Island, or Rosario while the weather gods sort out the big plan.

If you travel light and are flexible, sensible and not too foolhardy just about any boat is suitable for travel in the San Juans.

We once passed a couple of young men paddling their becalmed  little 16' sloop part way between  San Juan Island and Stuart Island.  The current was helping them along at about 1 mph and they had six or more hours of daylight left. Later that afternoon we noticed they had tied to the dock a few boat lengths down from us, apparently none the worse. That night one slept on the dock and one in the boat.  The next morning they were comparing who had the most uncomfortable sleep. 

Sometimes we see groups in open long boats from local camps, they will come ashore to unload gear and then using an anchor and  long rope loop, pull their boat out to deep water for the night.

I have seen ski boats so overloaded with camping gear and people that they have no reserve buoyancy, essentially they are waiting for a rouge wave or wake to sink them. Small boat cruising is perfectly acceptable, but you still must follow basic boating seamanship and safety rules.

A sailing partner of mine in Portland wants to bring his Hobie 16 to the San Juans. My first thought was --your going to freeze to death-- but then I remembered he uses a wet suit.  He asked if I thought a 1 hp outboard could be rigged up for an auxiliary (about 25 lbs I think) I said why not, as long as you don't weigh yourself down with camping gear, all you need is 1 hp,  a gallon of extra fuel, wet suit, booties, gloves, hand held waterproof VHF radio, and a dry bag  (or two).
But if he flips the boat and needs help, he could be in trouble and all Hobie Cat sailors like to fly a hull.  I suggested he travel in company with other boats, so they could carry his camping gear and cruise nearby for emergency's, just in case.

We came across a family with a dog in a canoe halfway to Patos Island,  gutsy or foolish, maybe just ignorant, but they were a long way from land.

I have never seen a paddle-board being used to cruise, but I'm sure I will.