First Time Trip to the San Juans Suggested Itinerary for a Nine Day Trip

San Juan Islands for First Timers

Suggested Itineraries for  San Juan Island boating trips

(Updated (2014) alternate itinerary with Echo Bay at Sucia Island as 1st stop)
click here  Sucia Trip Intinerary

(For a  shorter itinerary on your first cruise and with different island stopovers (click here) 

      This article is designed to get you going on that first boating/sailing trip to the San Juan Islands in Washington State.

Below is a snapshot map of your dreamed about vacation land (or water) 

The map above identifies many  (not all) common names and places

Take a moment to familiarize yourself with some locations you may have read about.

You may want to follow this link and take a quick look at the detailed marine parks list and then come back to the suggested itinerary below, "MARINE PARK LIST AND MAPS" click here 

for your detailed itinerary click (read more) below  >>

What is the Best Dinghy for Cruisers in the San Juan Islands? The Dinghy Dilemma!

       We all know asking "What's the best dinghy" is a loaded question; boaters can be passionate when it comes to  equipment choices.  Based on my own frugal, sailing/boating should be affordable philosophy "The best dinghy is the one you already own."  Whoa now, lets start listing exceptions.  I don't mean too small, too big, leaky, unsafe, etc. etc.   I mean a basic dinghy, that only has to float you and your stuff to shore.

    In keeping with this blogs purpose to help first timers get to the San Juans, lets talk reality.

     Here are ten or more irrefutable truths about dinghies.

• You must have a dinghy to go ashore at most parks, because you can't count on there being room at the dock. Many docks have room for only four boats. Many parks have no dock.
• You don't need a dinghy if you only go to resorts and marinas.
• You will probably tow your dinghy everywhere you go.
• You may not use it at all (makes you wish you left it home).
• If you need it you will be thankful you brought it with you.
• There is no place you will go that you can't drag your dinghy along.
• Dinghies may be major status symbols among some groups.
• Towing a dinghy slows you down and uses fuel
• You may run over your tow line and foul your prop or rudder (use a floating tow line).
• Certain people have a hard time climbing into or out of a dinghy alongside their boat.
• Children need a dinghy.

     Okay, that list is far from complete but highlights some points. Yes you need a dinghy, even if you can beach your boat, there are simply too many limitations and problems with beaching your water borne camper.  Lets say for example you rush to shore to use the bathroom at one of the great State Parks.  In the ten minutes you're ashore, a falling tide could leave you high and dry.  With a dinghy you simply pick it up and carry it back to the water. You need a two or three person dinghy, a one person craft can't ferry others to shore. When using dinghies, a multi hull catamaran style such as a Livingston is very stable, rows  well, beaches easy, and can carry big cargoes, however when towed they track to one side, hunt back and forth, forcing you to keep them on a very short leash. A conventional V hull dinghy is  tipsy crawling over the bow on the beach, carry's less cargo, but rows very nice and will tow directly behind you on a long or short leash.  Inflatables can carry enormous loads, some (not all) row poorly and some create so much drag they are impossible to tow. Just about all dinghies can be outfitted with an outboard motor, but you really don't need one for simple cruising in the San Juan Islands unless you plan on doing miles of shoreline exploring.

        In the summer season you probably wont see any big dinghy capsizing waves, but storms and adverse winds can churn up anywhere anytime, my dinghy floats when swamped, but not with the outboard, with the outboard bolted to the transom it's straight to the bottom or at least as far down as my tow line is long. Inflatables may be swamped without damage or sinking, which is something to think about if  your main boat is not up to the challenge, and could itself be sunk somehow.

Our Livingston dinghy is nine feet long and a tad bit overloaded

This inflatable was $69 and holds two people

This inflatable stows on deck, or deflated stows below and carries three people. 

      How about two dinghy's?
If you have children that take off with the dinghy, they are effectively leaving you stranded on the boat or ashore.  Well that's not going to happen you may say.  I say, "what if they get hurt ashore and call you on the phone or radio for help? What do you do? What if they take off in the dinghy and it gets dark, what do you do? (swim)"
Several years past I sent my bored and restless son (in the dinghy) to shore at dusk, telling him to invite himself to one of the many campfires we could see from the boat.  He met some other boaters with kids and before you know it it was after 10:00 pm and very dark.  His mother and I started to wonder what to do as we were stranded, and had no way to communicate with him. After a few minutes I took a strong flash light and blinked it into the darkness in the direction we thought he was last seen.  A short while later he appeared at our transom asking if we wanted him or something.  This little non event made me realize how handy a second dinghy would be, so we bought an inflatable kayak to stow below, just in case.

10/13/13 update worth noting
I'm selling the new sailing dinghy

4/17/17 update on converting the 9'  Livingston dinghy to sailing
 >> go to the do-it-yourself page and scroll way way way down to see the finished conversion << The dinghy conversion section is before the Bimini top on the cheap instructions and after the Boat acronyms if that helps you find it.
Livingston dinghy sailing conversion

9/13/20 another dinghy update. Last winter I plunked down about a grand in boat bucks and bought a new inflatable. My criteria was as follows. First, it must be light enough for me to muscle it around onto and off of the cabin roof by myself. It must have two seats. I must be able to inflate and deflate it on the boat. I bought a 9.5 foot boat with aluminum seats, plywood transom and high pressure inflatable floor.  Without seats, oars or pump, the rolled up package is about 4 feet long, 1.5 feet in diameter and weighs in at 73 pounds.

Standing on the cabin roof, I was able to fully inflate the new boat and slide it into the water.  Dragging it back up was much more work, even with two of us.  Then we drove around for three days with the inflated boat on the roof. All in all I like the new boat and am happy with my choice.

Testing complete, we deflated our new dinghy, rolled it up and headed for the San Juans.  At the last minute before heading up the freeway, I put the Livingston back on it's  swim step snap davits.  I know my plan was to replace the Livingston with something more seaworthy but I decided to bring the new and the old anyway.

In the San Juans we never inflated the new dinghy, and used the Livingston as usual.  Now the new inflatable is sitting collecting dust in my boat shed. I used it once for one hour. I still have high hopes to somehow justify my purchase. I hope mice and squirrels don't chew on it in the meantime.

Leaving for La Conner this morning!

Windrose, aka "Rosey" has made it to the San Juans

In good company anchored at Jones Island

I wrote this post ten years ago.  It is about a tsunami damaged boat we rescued following the Fukushima Japan earthquake of 2011.  Windrose was pummeled but not quite sunk as her slip was destyroyed around her in Cresent City, CA.

As I write this post Rosey's journey back is finally almost complete.  Today will be another white knuckle trip up the interstate for six hours, and then Monday we will be slinging her into Swinomish Channel.  After a day or so rigging we will be heading the wrong way to Hood Canal to visit Camp Parsons Boy Scout Camp to pick up our son. Next week we expect to head to San Juan Island with three bicycles on board so we can do a little bike riding. Right now I am preparing to download some tide forecasts and somehow appease the fog gods to lay off the Strait of Juan De Fuca. I'm still short a trusted gps, the radar is not tested, and my brand new Humminbird was shipped off for repairs and wont be back in time. So we will be dependent on our eyes, good looks, and the antique spinning sounder that makes a whirring sound. I think we will be just fine, but don't count on us to make any appointments on time, which is what I would say if we were on a modern newer boat with all systems functioning.
7/22/12


Read about Rosey here  > Rosey's first trip after arriving at her new home in the San Juans

Read about Rosey's tsunami nightmare and repair here  >  Bombay Pilothouse Project

Visit Olga on Orcas Island and ride your bikes up Mt Constitution or Moran Park

      Olga offered us an empty dock, so we gladly accepted. On other visits we turned away vowing to return when there was room.  The private mooring field is peppered with so many buoys it demanded full attention slipping through.

Olga public dock has room for about three boats on each side, all buoys are private.

The dinghy's at Olga belong to locals, there is no access to beach except, a nasty slippery, very steep, and thorny trail in brush under ramp.

The sign says it all

       On shore at the top of ramp is a flagpole, and a memorial bench. There are a couple blocks, if that, of roads to walk, some say private drive, keep out.  There is no bathroom.  The old store across the street was closed up many years ago, and the property is for sale, but the little post office is in business.  Up a moderately steep hill about 1/4-1/3 mile is a restaurant on the main road. Some other boaters made the hike and reported good food.  Other than private homes, most which look like second homes, there is no other business.  That's it for Olga.  I'm glad we finally stopped by Olga, but except for a nice dock to tie up to, and a pleasant little bay to paddle and dinghy sail, what can I say.

       On a much more positive note, I rode my bicycle around a little, and after checking my maps I realized that Olga is the shortest and most convenient starting point for a grueling ride to the top of Mt Constitution.  7 miles versus 7.5 starting at Rosario.  I did not make the ride due to being late in the day, but I plan to come back and give it a try.

         Next time we are in the area and need a place to spend the night, I'm sure we will stop again.

Oh, and we saw a little baby deer on the beach, way to go Olga!

Farmers Markets on San Juan Island - Saturday Markets on Lopez Island, Orcas Island Saturday Market

If your running out of things to do and places to go when cruising the San Juans, try Saturday Markets, Farmers Markets and Craft Fairs.  Lopez, Orcas and San Juan Island, all have regular scheduled markets in the summer months.

 At Friday Harbor on San Juan Island you will find every Saturday morning, April through September the "San Juan Island Farmers Market" at the Brickworks Plaza. Bring your appetite for breakfast or lunch and feast on the island cuisine, then bring home locally made arts and crafts.

Tie up in a slip, or anchor out and use the dinghy dock, its a very short walk.

In Lopez Village on Lopez Island look for the "Lopez Farmers Market" next door to the community center. Open 10am to 2pm mid May into September every Saturday. Plan on having lunch and picking up some local produce and seafood. Local crafts people and artists will be  displaying their work.

Berth at a slip in Fisherman Bay and walk about a half mile to Lopez Village.

OR go by dinghy and land right in town -  here's how >>> Lopez Village by dinghy

Don't miss the "Orcas Island Farmers Market" in Eastsound on the Village Green, Open every Saturday from 10am to 3pm  May through October.  Crafts, arts, food, gardeners, museum and history booths, you will find just what you need. 

Eastsound county dock

Music festivals on the green

Use the county dock at Madrona Point or anchor out, and dinghy to the dock, its just a block or two to Eastsound.

Anacortes, Bellingham, and LaConner should be on your short list of things to do & places to go!

At Anacortes the Farmers market is at 611 R Ave in Anacortes, just a few steps from Cap Sante Boat Haven, and runs 9am until closing every Saturday beginning in May.
Don't miss the "Waterfront Festival," normally held in June

Bellingham boasts a Farmers Market that is just a one mile walk from Squalicum Harbor at Depot Market Square, Railroad and Chestnut streets, open 10am to 3pm April thru Christmas.

Lastly, LaConner on Swinomish Channel has several public docks downtown where moorage is on a first come basis. As of this writing there is no established close by Saturday Market, but they have an extensive menu of shops jus steps away on main street. Visit the chamber website calendar of events right here.   http://www.laconnerchamber.com/chamber_calendar.cfm

San Juan & Gulf Islands Current Atlas - Strait of Georgia - Haro - Rosario - Juan De Fuca

   Re-posted  because currents in the San Juan's are part of every day.

If your serious about working the San Juan currents to your advantage you will want to purchase this current atlas, produced by the Canadian Hydrographic Service.  The Atlas is available at West Marine as well as many retailers for about $30

To use the Atlas without doing any math, you will also want to purchase an annual page index such as Washburne's Tables for about $7 

Some genius's have posted their own index tables online that you may copy for free.

(try this one  http://code.borsboom.io/current-atlas-tables/)

 Below is a scan of part of one page from the current atlas.

  This is confusing so read the next section twice or more.

The Current Atlas consists of about 80 pages, each page is identical, except for the direction and size of the arrows.    Each page represents current direction and velocity forecast for one hour of that day. All days and all hours are forecast, some conditions repeat repeat repeat, that's why there are 80 pages and not 8,760, and why you need a page index to locate the correct page.  You will only need one Current Atlas (used or new) but you will need a page index for the date of your cruise.  An old index table such as the "2009" pictured above is of no use unless your yacht is a time machine.

The page below, was the forecast for July 13, 2011 at 6:00 pm.  If you wanted to see the forecast for 5pm, 7pm, or another day, you would look at a different page. (this is similar to tide tables, except with drawings)

 The biggest arrows represent current velocity over 2.5 mph, the smallest, under .25 mph. 

The arrows point the direction of flow.

Notice the whirlpool (eddy) south of Victoria and off San Juan Island. Notice the current flowing south on east side of Orcas and north on west side of Whidbey.
When cruising, having this information handy can save you time and fuel and make the difference whether you get to your planned destination. For instance a boat heading north up Haro Strait near San Juan Island will get a big boost, however by checking the next several hours one would see that the free ride is going to end soon and the train will come roaring back.  As a rule of thumb the currents flow north on a flood tide and south on ebb tides but as you can see, rules have exceptions.  This forecast is just before the flood tide reverses and becomes ebb, an apt description would be "confused" The confusion will soon end, get your ticket to ride, its free.

This is what the currents looked like on July 13th at 7:49 am, also July 14th at 8:39 am and July15th at  9:26 am.  As you can see, your vessel will get a free ride south just about everywhere, but each day at a slightly different time. When planning your passages and your cruise it would be very helpful to consult the Current Atlas first, a simple free ride one week will be the wrong direction the next week. You may want to choose a different departure date.

While were on subject of currents, picture in your mind these big arrows meeting opposing winds and you should then visualize big, steep (dangerous) waves slamming your boat.  Then after a few hours the current changes, and all is well in Camelot once again.

 this post should be read if big waves bother you  >>>wind-versus-current-and-predicting waves

Lately, I have made it part of my cruising to use as little fuel as possible, one cruise we covered about 120 miles over 8 days and used 6 gallons of gas, and most of the fuel was used battling an opposing current between Jones Island and James Island. Unfortunately my schedule dictated the time.

Get your Camping, Resort, and Marina Reservations in the San Juans -NOW- before it's too late

       Okay,  here it is, the day before Valentines Day, and you are stuck on  finding the perfect Valentine.  How about a reservation at a B&B in the San Juans for some time in July or August. Or a cozy romantic restaurant dinner date in a  Friday Harbor eatery.

      Enough with Valentines, by the time you read this, you're either in the dog house, living on your boat, or should be making summer cruise plans. In any case its probably not too late to get that reservation at a campground or marina.

      When planning a San Juan cruise you don't need any reservations to have a great vacation, but some people feel better knowing there is an open slip or warm bed waiting their arrival.  As a suggestion you might consider making a reservation at a popular stopover for just one or two nights in the middle of your cruise, leaving the rest of your time free to go where the wind blows you, simply staying where you happen to dock or anchor. With a speedy power boat all the San Juan islands and parks are within an easy run no matter where you start or plan to end up. A more sedate  pokey sailing type vessel  may be somewhat limited how far it can run before the sun sets.

     Even if you don't reserve some fancy resort for a stopover visit you can still make a day time visit to Friday Harbor, Roche Harbor, Deer Harbor or many others, park that yacht for free, or anchor and dinghy to the dinghy dock,  then armed with a fistful of quarters enjoy a wonderful, blissful, rejuvenating, hot shower.  You will get back to the boat refreshed and ready to continue your vacation anew.

 Hot showers are still free at Lopez Village.
Check it out here >>>  Lopez Village Free Hot showers

How to Secure Your Yacht Like You Want To Keep It Forever

Set the brake, turn towards the curb, leave it in reverse and tie the reins with a quick release knot.  

These familiar sounding hints may work for some things, and horses, but not boats.  

Dock lines are important, seems like an obvious observation, but I’m astounded at how many times I see boaters tying up as if they didn’t care about what may be their 1^st or 2^nd  most valuable possession, spouses and children excluded of course (for some).  Some skippers treat their vessels as if it were a horse, just throw the line around the hitching rail and she be there, arrr, when I come back must be their logic. In their defense, some of these  boobs cowboys (boobs removed to be pc) have never been anywhere but on their trailer, so dock lines aren’t used. But still, If they can’t tie up their boat, how can the rest of us trust being around them.

Enough with the rants, every boat needs four or more lines going from the boat to the float.  I know, people make exceptions sooner or later, such as, “It was just a five minute stop over to get ice, or the water was so smooth,” that’s fine, you’re the skipper and it’s your call.

Four or more huh?  Let's see, one bow line, one stern line, one spring line to stop forward surges, one spring line to stop backward surges. More lines are needed for nasty conditions, such as big swells hitting you all night and day, passing boat wakes, high winds. The condition of your vessel or the docks puny cleats and deteriorating condition are all clear signs that you may need more lines.

Learn from others or suffer the expense of learning yourself is a good piece of advice.  I have on one occasion experienced a brand new line chafe through and part in only one night while tied to an exposed outside float. A new line that rubs on a smooth rounded fiberglass gel coat will lose the battle in one night if it is snapped taught constantly by your boats surging.  Plus the gelcoat will suffer in case anyone cares. The answer is loose lines, shock absorbing snubbers, chafe protection padding or hoses, more lines for when the first one breaks, or park somewhere else. Of course for short time periods you can order your crew to stand there and hold the boat off while you buy the beer and ice. 

Don't forget to have oversize fenders, but even that wont save your boat if you park somewhere you shouldn't.

Ahoy!

Who owns the Shoreline above and below the high tide line in the San Juan Islands?

         Probably since before exploration, men have claimed ownership of just about everything above and below the surface of the ocean, and this includes the San Juan Islands.

         The good news is that the arguments of who owns what and where are pretty much settled.  The bad news is that, as a boater staring across the water at some desirable beach or mudflat (if there is such a thing) you don’t know what to do, or where to land.

       For the most part, you may anchor anywhere you want, except vessel navigation channels and marked farms. It doesn't take much common sense to figure out not to anchor in the middle of a boat congested narrow thoroughfare, (marked or not) but some daydreamers will do just that. 

        Just because it’s legal to anchor doesn't make it a good idea. You can walk most beaches, below the normal high water line, but many properties own the adjacent tidelands and may or may not be marked. Not all shorelines have beaches and so private land will extend to the water’s edge.  Most of the dry land (above high water) is private and you will be trespassing if you come ashore and hike into the woods.  Some landowners don’t care if you come ashore, and some do.  Many will have signs that alert you to their wishes and you should respect their wishes.  If it were me I would not anchor off shore from a sign that said no trespassing, why ruffle someone’s feathers by anchoring or walking in their backyard.

      There are places, marked and some not marked, where seagrass has been damaged, and signs ask you to anchor elsewhere. Who’s not for being an environmentalist? Just move along, there’s plenty of other places to drop a hook.

      At resorts and marinas, (Roche, Friday, Deer, Rosario, Fishermans, etc, etc etc., you will usually see boats anchored nearby, just follow their lead and anchor your boat too. Ask someone where the dinghy dock is and go spend some money.  You may be thinking, how long can I anchor and what’s the cost, so I remind you it’s public, it's free, and you can anchor as long as you want.

       There are some exceptions, but we don’t need to discuss them now, or ever, so go have a good cruising day. 

Five Things Everyone Should Know Before Cruising the San Juan Islands

Fun Observations and Frivolous Knowledge  for 

All Boaters new to the San Juan's (repost)

#1 Hugely fluctuating water levels   (tides)

The San Juans have high and low tides every day, some very high, some very low. This means you will need to be prepared to deal with going ashore at locations lacking floats.  The easiest solution is to bring a dinghy; if you don't have a dinghy I suggest you buy a cheap inflatable boat or 2 person kayak for around $75.  Once in the San Juans most people simply tow the dinghy everywhere they go, or deflate and stow it away. Those of you going in a ski boat or skiff may be thinking you can beach your boat, which will work, but only for a few minutes. On a falling tide in ten minutes your boat may be high and dry, unless you can carry it, your stuck until the tide comes back up. On a rising tide your boat will float away while you're on shore.  Since your going to anchor in six feet of water at low tide you will need one hundred feet or more of anchor rode to accommodate a ten foot plus increase at high tide. Smart boaters bring two anchors and rode and a dinghy they can carry up above high tide.

#2 Strong Swirling Currents (in places)

San Juan currents are notorious, and the root of many stories. For fast planing boats you can pretty much ignore adverse current; however slower boats live and die by planning passages to get an assist from the current. A typical sailboat may putt along at 4.5 mph, against a 2.5 mph current their real speed over ground is 2 mph.  Going with the same current their sog is 7 mph.  So a ten mile passage takes 5 hours the dumb way or 1 hour 25 minutes the smart way. There are many prediction and forecast books and charts available and online.  While you don't need a publication, I recommend that you buy something and keep it with you. I would also go online and print out a tide schedule for the time and area you expect to cruise.  CLICK BELOW for Rosario Strait at Guemes Channel
NOAA tide forecasts

In a nut shell, here's a simple rule of thumb to follow.  On a incoming or rising tide, the water in most straits and passes flows "north" while during a falling tide the water reverses and flows "south."  When the current hits an island straight on, the water will split and flow around the island usually at a slightly higher speed creating eddies at headlands and the tips of the island.
San Juan and Gulf Islands Current Atlas

#3 Weather could be fog  (pea soup is the term)

You can get lost in the dark, in the fog, or just plain lost on a sunny day.  You need to bring with you a chart, and you would be smart to protect it from getting wet or torn up. I sandwich mine between two clear acrylic sheets held together with velcro.

Some will say the chart needs to be new and of the highest resolution, which may be true for ship captains and other navigators.  What were talking about here is not getting lost, even a google print out may do the trick.  If you are going to boat in the fog you must have a compass, and  GPS, a portable handheld GPS will do fine and some new phones may do the trick too. (in thick fog you will go in circles and be totally disoriented without a compass) A gps will not replace a compass in rough water and fog, a gps is much too slow  reacting when you are getting spun from broadsides or quartering waves (broaching) you need both.   Many times in the San Juans visibility may be down to 3 or 4 miles and you think you can sneak across some open water to the next island, and you probably can, but if the fog thickens to pea soup you will be glad you have your compass and GPS.  BTW, fast boats can't always go fast when waves and swells stack up. And only very dumb skippers go fast when they can't see.

See the ferry approaching the anchored sailboat?

#4 Wind or lack of wind  (sorry sailors)

OK, here's some bad news for sailors.  The San Juans are not known for great sailing winds in July and August. Out in the straits (Haro, Rosario, Georgia, Juan De Fuca)

you may get some decent sailing, but inside the islands, don't bet on it.

Sailing in April rain with reefed main

#5 Crowd control   (no worries)

Most likely you won't have any problems with crowds except on the 4th of July and Labor Day.  The good side is that you will always find a place to anchor, even on holidays, the dinghy ride may just be a little longer for some.  Most marinas take reservations and you may as well take them up on it, but you don't need to.   I suggest you slow down a little and enjoy the freedom of not planning ahead, take one day at a time and see where you go.  Lastly, because this area is so close to Bellingham and Anacortes many boaters are day boaters.  At the end of the day they head for home, leaving some resorts and parks half empty, especially on weekend Sunday nights. Monday or Tuesday are good days to begin your outing if you want to be alone.

Fourth of July celebration in the San Juan Islands at Roche Harbor Resort

Roche Harbor 4th of July balloon contest for kids in dinghys

yes, there was room for more, lots more

Expenses

DNR buoys are free (Cypress Island) State Park buoys are $10, many park floats are 50 cents a foot,  Marinas charge between 75 cents and $2 a foot. Gasoline is a little more expensive than on land, but not much more.  Food, groceries, ice are just a little more than the mainland but very fair priced overall.

How many days to plan

Plan a minimum of four days, but up to two weeks depending on what you like to do. (I like to sit on the dock at Jones Island and read my book between naps and walks, then I make a campfire in a empty tent site and cook Kielbasa followed by a glass of wine. Then retire to my boat for a good nights sleep.  The next day, do it again)

Salt Water

Salt water drys sticky and does not suds up well with soap, you will get it all over you and your boat, count on it.  After a week you will look forward to a shower.  Your boat will be covered with salt crystals.  Most marinas have little water and don't want you washing your boat.

Squalicum Harbor in Bellingham has boat and trailer fresh water wash down hoses in the parking lot.  You should use them each time you dunk your trailer.

Provisions

For the most part you will want to provision before you leave on the boat.  Anacortes and Bellingham have all the big stores and each has a West Marine store.  All the resorts and towns have grocery stores, if you drive a fast boat, supply's may be only minutes away, putt putt's should work a store visit into your circuit.  I say circuit because most cruisers will follow a circle of some sort trying to hit many stops.  We find that ice needs renewing after four days, so a stop over at Friday Harbor, Deer Harbor, Roche Harbor, Blakelys, or Orcas landing fills the bill.  All these places  except Orcas, have gas and showers.  Showers will cost a handful of quarters so be quick or be poor. Cold showers are free. Lopez Village has free showers but no dock so you will need a dinghy.how to dinghy to Lopez village

Garbage

All the parks are pack it in and pack it out, the marinas have dumpsters.  If you are new to boat camping you will find garbage to be a pain because you are not used to storing everything in your boat.  Little things like empty water bottles suddenly take space you don't have.  You must give careful thought to what you are bringing, and the garbage it will generate.  We don't use disposable bottles, minimize pop consumption, and try to have campfires to burn burnable trash.  It is against the law to toss anything, (even a apple core) in the water.

Animals

Your dogs must be on a leash, period, everywhere.  Raccoon's are on all islands and will climb right into your boat or kayak in the day time if you let them.  Deer are all over too, but they shy away, except on Jones Island where you can hand feed them.

Otters live under most floats and docks, they will crawl all over your boat, get into things and make a mess.  Otters also will mark their territory by pooing on your stuff, dock lines are a favorite.

Bathrooms

All the parks have nice composting toilets, (each island mentioned for overnight is a park) the rangers service all parks on a regular basis.  You will be pleasantly surprised at how clean the facilities are.

Where to go:

Your destination is simply that, its the journey getting there and the experiences on the way that make a trip a wonderful vacation. Try the links below for some Island Park descriptions.

Parks and Islands to visit  plus an itinerary for first timers
Suggested itinerary for first timers

Emergency's 

Bring your cell phone and charger, bring at least a portable handheld marine radio, bring basic first aid kit, call the Coast Guard, they can be there pretty fast, or arrange for vessel assist on your credit card, bring a friend with a similar boat, then you can help each other.

Marine Parks of the San Juan Islands and Surrounding Area

Below is the marine parks list
             followed by reviews, charts, and pictures
                         in the order listed.
        This is not all the parks, just the ones you may want to make part of your cruising. It's unlikely you can visit all in one trip and still do a decent job of sightseeing. You should plan multiple visits to the San Juans.
Many people choose Jones as their favorite for just hanging for a few days, so Jones is first.
For hiking, Sucia, or Pelican Beach on Cypress Island are the best, but all the parks have hiking trails.
      Some parks are in a convenient location when you need to spend the night and you're between destinations, Saddle Bag, Eagle Harbor, and Odlin would fit this description.  Most parks with docks have picnic tables on the floats, which are very handy for extending your living area, socializing, and meeting other boaters.
        For marinas/etc. where you can get fuel and provisions try this list >> Marinas - fuel - beer and ice - slips for rent

• Jones Island
• James Island
• Clark Island
• Doe Island
• Obstruction Pass
• Pelican Beach
• Eagle Harbor
• Cypress Head
• Matia
• Patos
• Sucia
• Stuart Island  (Prevost & Reid Harbor)
• Spencer Spit
• Odlin County Park
• Washington Park
• Deception Pass Park
• Saddlebag Island
• Sidney Spit Marine Park (Canada)

Click here to go to complete description and maps of above listed parks

Does the law require non-swimmers to wear life jackets (pfd) in the San Juan's - No it does not, but some folks on some boats must wear pfd's.

Oh boy, let's argue.
                  Seriously, you should be conversant with and follow pfd rules, they make sense and save lives.  This article is a semi-non serious look at the actual usage on board cruiser vessels.

        First of all I'm not trying to make an argument but make a point of different thinking. (just for fun)
Here goes -
        If, and I mean if only one life jacket is worn on board, most would say it should be worn by a clumsy non swimmer because they will most likely need it. In this intellectually challenged exercise I suggest that the one and only life jacket should be worn by the most capable person because no one else on board is likely to be able to save him.
       
             The most capable person will have to save himself when no one else is able, hence he should wear the life jacket.  Because >> When the most capable person is gone the rest may perish, when the most capable person needs help, who will help him. So with this way of thinking we must preserve the most capable so that the less capable may then be helped.

       Was that clear? OK try this scenario  -- The skipper gets knocked overboard (crazy crew screws up) and is unconscious in the water without a pfd.  By the time the clueless crew can recover (if ever) him/her, its too late.    Now the remaining persons on board are at greater risk without the numero uno.

        Next scenario  --The clumsy helpless crewman trips and goes in the drink without a pfd. The immensely capable skipper springs into action, rescues the klutz in minutes and saves the day.

        My backwards conclusion is that in the first scenario the skipper may have survived had he been wearing the only pfd, but the klumsy klutz crew probably would have survived without a pfd due to the skill of the skipper.

        What! What is he suggesting, that the skipper gets the only pfd? Outrageous! Blasphemy! What about the Master's responsibility to ship, crew and passengers - Keel haul the laggardly sot.

      On a serious note:
        Look around the docks where all the boats are coming and going and you invariably see the women and children  (even pooches) bundled up in the latest good looking approved flotation apparel. Makes sense, right? - save the hapless and helpless from succumbing to a maritime accident lurking around the next slip or piling. Look closely and many times you see the person stepping (we never jump do we) from boat to dock or dock to boat, handling lines, pushing off, keeping track of passengers, other boats, etc, etc, is not wearing a pfd. All the passengers that are seated and doing nothing are properly belted in, but the one person really in harm's way, the one person all others depend on, the one person the others may not be able to save - is not wearing a pfd at all.

       I need to end this tirade by saying that simply having pfd's on board may keep the regulators happy but won't help the unfortunate skipper over the side, while his helpless family watches him struggle.

        There are certain times (docking-working on deck) when all crew and skipper should be wearing safety gear - and that is just good seamanship.

Sobering thought!

Traveling to Butchart Gardens by Boat - Itinerary - Canada/USA Customs - Anchor in Tod Inlet

         For  us, one of the best parts about cruising the San Juan's is not having to make any reservations or depend on anyone else.  After a quick stop at the store for food, we just go, and then let the  relaxing begin the moment we cast off. Four days, five days, ten days, I quickly leave everything behind, (including the wine and Hershey bars by mistake) all my thoughts are of traveling and  carefree times.

          However, many times my plans are waylaid by life's little curves and family events. Life curves that I have little control over, and family that - well that just takes precedence over my cruise plans.

          Case in point, it took me four years and three tries to finally see in person the flag lowering ceremony held each balmy summer evening at Roche Harbor.  One time I missed the cruise altogether, and another time a boat dragged anchor into us just minutes before the cannon went off. When I did get to witness the entire show it was just by happenstance that we were there, for I had given up and mostly forgot about the cannon firing sundown ritual.  So when this baby replica of a middle age artillery piece blasted a hole in my thoughts, and its muzzle flash lit up the manicured lawn, I was taken by surprise to say the least. Oh I may have yelled or screamed just a little but no one heard me. The blast was not really deafening but very loud never the less, took me by surprise and captured everyone's attention.  Then the returning echoes bouncing off Henry Island from across Roche Harbor drowned out all evidence of my heavy breathing and rapid heart beat.  What did he just babble? (how to relax?)

click below to read about Butchart Gardens!

What Does Stuart Island Have to Offer the Boating Traveler?

If you can find the time to visit Roche Harbor then you can certainly pop over to Stuart.

1. bicycle Stuart
2. camp on shore
3. camp, anchor or tie to dock at Reid Harbor
4. camp, anchor or tie to dock at Prevost Harbor
5. use the county dock
6. hike to Turn Point Lighthouse and visit the museum
7. visit two pioneer school houses
8. buy Boundary Pass Traders T-shirts
9. orca watch

Click on the link below then scroll  way, way - way, way, down to Stuart Island for details, chart and photos of Stuart Island


Take this link to the parks page

Submarines have right of way! And the Coast Guard the Navy and anyone with big guns

They got lots of guns around them too. woohoo!

 (just beyond the sub is some sort of supply ship)   click on pics to make em bigger

Cutting across the entrance to Hood Canal  on our way to Port Ludlow we were suddenly stopped by Coast Guard and Navy patrol boats.  They were all business insisting we stop and wait, the submarine soon came by at about 10 knots, all the the while they kept the patrol boat between us and the sub as if we may be a threat. (or they were camera shy)

The sub had 12 to 15 boats running interference for it as it headed out. All done very efficiently.

BTW afterwards from somewhere we got hit with a big big wake.

Crossing paths with a submarine was an unexpected treat. The next day we cruised up Hood Canal past the Navy base but failed to see anything worth reporting except maybe a huge sign saying lethal force authorized.  We kept our distance.

VHF Marine Radio Etiquette Rules to follow and how to entertain other boaters

We talked about radio use before, but lets do it again because some of us need to lighten up.

Some of us when calling (hailing) our good buddy's say the boat name they are calling (usually some descriptive name like "barfing good times for all" or "I think I heard enough already" or this true one "om pa pa - om pa pa" try listening to that three times ) three or four times in a row, and if that's not tedious enough they say it clearly, plainly, slowly, enounciatingly, pronounciatingly, excruciatingly perfect. Enough already again, just say it once, normally -- are you in love with saying the boats name or something? Besides you just talked to them five minutes ago, why should all of us have to listen to your ten minute hailing speech again. And then, all you have to say is something like, "Hey Joe, do you want french or thousand Island dressing?"


Now I know its proper to repeat three times when hailing -- but give it a break.

Here are some pet peeves and tongue in cheek ideas:

• Is your radio set on low power when you call Joe, no one in the next state wants to hear you.
• How about staying on 68 or 69, 71,72, if you're going to keep calling every five minutes.
• If they don't respond, wait awhile longer than thirty seconds before trying again, unless the world is ending it wont matter.
• Try using your cell phone.
• If your making us all listen to your party plans, how about an open invitation.
• Sticky mikes happen a lot,  check yours if your not hearing anything. The easiest way is with another radio. (call for a radio check)
• Just say the name once--pleeease, unless it really does sound  better to repeat repeat

Okay, I've cooled off some, ranting can be therapy, let's continue.

• Transmit on low power unless, a mayday call (radios have a high/low switch).
• Hail on channel 16 and then agree to switch to 68,69 or others for chit chat.
• Keep your chit chat short, others are waiting and we only have a few channels for recreational use.
• Btw, radio use (all channels) is supposed to be for operational purposes not chit chat and exchanging dinner recipes. This rule is widely ignored,
• Btw, did you know your required to monitor 16 if you have a radio?
• Be polite and concise, then get off. 
• Hold the mike close but don't yell.
• You can say over but you dont need to, most know when its over.
• Over.
• Roger.
• Roger dodger.
• Standing by on 16, 69, pins and needles.

I'm good, I'm done.

Another radio post here >>marine-radios-do-you-need-one?

Things to do - Get off the boat -There are places to go - Bring Bicycles on your next Cruise to the San Juan Islands

       Bicycling the San Juans, may not describe our cruise last month, but we did bring three bicycles, and we did knock off about forty miles on San Juan Island.

At Friday Harbor with three bicycles, and yes the jib sheets caught on the handlebars on every tack.

      Last January I posted a short blog laying out a possible bike/hike/cruise scenario/itinerary that you could use as a planning building block for your own cruise. Bikes in the San Juans  Below is a quick summation of what we actually ended up doing.

      Our San Juan Island trip started at Shelter Bay LaConner on the Swinomish Channel.  We had just returned from a week long cruise into Hood Canal and after one night in our slip we cast off again at 5:30 am trying to beat the falling tide which would leave us trapped at the dock. With just inches or less to spare we sneaked across our shallow entrance shoal and slid into Swinomish Channel, and rode the remaining outgoing current all the way into Padilla Bay.  After a day of on and off winds and then really great afternoon sailing winds we arrived at 5pm and hailed the Friday Harbor Harbor Master staking claim to a slip for the next two nights.  A casual stroll around town, and live local music drifting down from the city's seawall  gathering esplanade contributed to a very relaxing evening on board. Not having tides or currents dictating our bicycling schedule allowed us to sleep in the next morning. Finally with hot coffee in hand, (okay, in the cup) I wandered up to Kings Market and purchased hash browns, eggs and some yummy impulse items to bring back to the boat for a late breakfast.

      Definitely before noon, (but not much) we walked our bikes off the floats and headed uphill, of course it's always going to be uphill when you start at sea level. We used a folded and wadded up, photocopied not to scale scrap of map for guidance and headed for Cattle Point. The roads were without bike lanes, but drivers were respectful and we had an easy ride to American Camp and then on to Cattle Point Lighthouse.  Fortunately the weather was clear and with no fog we had  views all the way to Vancouver Island and across the strait of Juan De Fuca. The Olympic mountains hung in the distance completing our postcard views.  Viewing Cattle Pass from up high was a thrill and brought into perspective what was previously a cockpit level chart image.  It was easy to see why the Americans chose this location to set up their cannons. From our vantage point we could scan the water route all the way back to Turn Island where our boat lay just around the corner.

      We brought cookies and water for lunch, and learned next time to bring lots more water and less cookies.

      There is no road right along the coast so we rode part way back to Friday Harbor before turning towards Lime Kiln Park. We encountered a few long steep grades which required walking for some of us. The cliff side views are stunning and it is somewhat difficult to ride safely while scanning the waters for Killer Whales.  I learned right away to stop if I wanted to really take in the sights. We followed a circle route taking us by the Lavender Gardens and back to town on a different road.

      I forgot and left my camera on  the boat so no pictures, sorry.  The next day we were fortunate to not have any soreness brought on by being out of shape and suddenly biking like we were still children. On the way back to La Conner we stopped by Spencer Spit for an afternoon hike, and then anchored at James Island. We hung around in the morning waiting for the rising  tide which we rode almost all the way to Shelter Bay.

      This cruise, in spite of motor problems (our diesel quit and forced us to use our 7.5 kicker for the entire trip) turned out to be one of our best, longest and most enjoyable.  I highly recommend planning a bicycle/cruise to any of the San Juan Islands.
John