Explore the San Juan Islands with expert guides, detailed maps, and comprehensive boating itineraries. Learn how to utilize the tides and currents to your advantage. Discover the best parks for camping, anchoring, and hiking. Experience the charm of Friday Harbor and Roche Harbor, then relax in a tranquil, secluded cove for the perfect getaway.
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The quick answer is, "Nothing good." This is a short synopsis of what happened to us one 4th of July in the San Juan Islands at Roche Harbor
In about thirty minutes the Roche Harbor staff will be lowering the flags and firing the cannon.
Several times in past years, circumstances or poor planning have caused me to miss the ceremony. The firing of the cannon is what I really want to see. The belching smoke, the jagged dagger of flame, the explosive echo’s ricocheting across Roche Harbor. I anticipate a fantastic kick off for my best fireworks ever. Finally, the stars have aligned for me, and on the fourth of July at that. This is already a great trip. The kids will stay on the boat while Linda and I paddle ashore. The lowering of the flags and cannon firing will be at sundown.
I am in the cockpit tending to the dinghy, anxiously waiting to leave. When I look over at the boat anchored near us, I sense that it looks different. It is about thirty-five or forty feet long and easily over fifteen feet tall at the upper bridge. The wind has been steadily increasing for the past hour and I suspect this apartment size power boat is catching the wind and straining at the anchor lines which would make him appear to move a little closer to us. I ask Linda, “Do you think that boat is getting closer?” As I’m watching, I become sure it is half the distance it was when I first noticed. Now I know for sure, we have a problem, the boat is only ten feet away. There is nothing I can do. The other boats anchor has broken out and it is dragging into us. The last ten feet closes rapidly, and suddenly he is against us. I hold him off long enough to grab a fender and place it between us saving us both from damage. I am yelling and banging on his hull with my fist trying to get their attention, but Linda tells me she saw all of them leave earlier.
Okay, I don't remember exactly what I read but you get the idea. In the San Juan's we are pretty much always near shore (it's not that big an area) so should we worry all the time? No! We should pay attention using our heads and our tools.
All the rocks, reefs and shallows are marked on charts, the especially egregious places have buoys, signs, sticks and posts out in the water.
Of course with storms, high tides, poor maintenance, things go missing, so we are back to paying attention and using the old noggin.
Once not too long ago we were motoring in flat mirror perfect water at about 7 knots in twenty feet of depth. Up ahead I saw a disturbance (some itty bitty ripples) I glanced at my chart plotter and saw nothing alarming, nevertheless as we neared the ripples I braked and prepared to go full astern.
While watching the depth gauge, suddenly -- there it was -- the depth dropped to six and then four -- and we came to a halt. (no we didn't hit) I stopped, turned and went around the shallow spot.
on watch
Here is a list of potential problem spots where you could easily relax your vigilance and get hurt.
Explore hidden coves and discover the best things to do in your boat while cruising the Salish Sea
The difference between a truly wonderful vacation and a ho-hum boat ride is the memorable experiences and special places visited along the way. These are some of our favorite haunts and things to do. Maybe some will become your favorites as well.
Matia Island one-mile loop trail
This easy one-mile loop immerses you deeply into the shaded forest the minute you take your first steps. Towering trees, oversized ferns, and thick mosses line the trail. Our first walk many years ago was so serene and calming that even our young kids were quiet and talked in whispers. Matia Island pictorial
Pygmy deer on Jones Island
The northwest is full of wildlife and deer are everywhere, or so it seems sometimes. However, apparently, the many deer on Jones Island have developed to a much smaller size. Even the older bucks with big racks are only about waist-high. Many of the deer are tame, and some are downright annoying. One time a deer met me at the water's edge as I came ashore in the dinghy. Several times deer have joined us around our campfires looking for handouts and letting the kids rub their heads and pet them. I remember once a spike kept crowding too close to the fire, he was intent on getting at a bag of corn curls. It is against park rules to feed the animals so I don't know how they learned to expect treats from boaters. Jones Island deer
Deception Pass State Park
While Deception Pass isn't located within San Juan County, any boating enthusiast would be remiss not to include it in their cruising itinerary. In fact, Cornet Bay, with its well-facilitated ramp, serves as a prime launch point for those embarking on their nautical adventures. But, here's a piece of advice – don't just launch and rush through; take the time to savor the breathtaking scenery.
Consider planning part of your voyage around the four daily occurrences of slack tide. At slack tide, the turbulent waters temporarily calm, providing an excellent opportunity for exploration. A mere quarter-mile beyond the pass, still within the park's boundaries, you'll discover Sharpe Cove. Here, you can moor your vessel at the floating dock, and at the head of the ramp stands the remarkable Maiden of Deception Pass.
Windrose, aka "Rosey" has made it to the San Juans
In good company anchored at Jones Island
I wrote this post ten years ago. It is about a tsunami-damaged boat we rescued following the Fukushima Japan earthquake of 2011. Windrose was pummeled but not quite sunk as her slip was destroyed around her in
Crescent City, CA.
As I write this post, Rosey's journey back is finally almost complete.
Today will be another white knuckle trip up the interstate for six hours, and then Monday we will be slinging her into Swinomish Channel. After a day or so rigging we will be heading to Hood Canal to visit Camp Parsons Boy Scout Camp to pick up our son. Next week we expect to make it to San Juan Island with three bicycles on board so we can do a little bike riding. Right now I am preparing to download some tide forecasts and somehow appease the fog gods to lay off the Strait of Juan De Fuca. I'm still short a trusted GPS, the radar is not tested, and my brand new Humminbird was shipped off for repairs and won't be back in time. So we will be dependent on our eyes, good looks, and the antique spinning sounder that makes a whirring sound. I think we will be just fine, but don't count on us to make any appointments on time, which is what I would say if we were on a modern newer boat with all systems functioning.
On other visits, we turned away, vowing to return when there was room. The private mooring field is peppered with so many buoys it demands full attention slipping through.
Olga public dock has room for about three boats on each side, all buoys are private.
The dinghy's at Olga belong to locals, there is no access to beach except, a nasty slippery, very steep, and thorny trail in brush under ramp.
The sign says it all
On shore at the top of the Olga ramp is a flagpole, and a memorial bench.
There are a couple blocks, if that, of roads to walk, some say private drive, keep out. There is no bathroom. The old store across the street was closed up many years ago, and the property is for sale, but the little post office is in business. Up a moderately steep hill about 1/4-1/3 mile is a restaurant on the main road. Some other boaters made the hike and reported good food. Other than private homes, most which look like second homes, there is no other business. That's it for Olga. I'm glad we finally stopped by Olga, but except for a nice dock to tie up to, and a pleasant little bay to paddle and dinghy sail, what can I say.
On a much more positive note, I rode my bicycle around a little, and after checking my maps I realized that Olga is the shortest and most convenient starting point for a grueling ride to the top of Mt Constitution. 7 miles versus 7.5 starting at Rosario. I did not make the ride due to being late in the day, but I plan to come back and give it a try.
Next time we are in the area and need a place to spend the night, I'm sure we will stop again. Oh, and we saw a little baby deer on the beach, way to go Olga!
Note: I am reluctant to review or report on businesses that may or may not be around in the future when readers might come across my post, not realizing the information is sadly outdated or just plain incorrect.
That being said, I have heard that a coop has reopened (2023/2024?) the old store/deli at the top of the gangplank in Olga. I have also been told that there is a new restaurant in West Sound, across from the county dock.
To the best of my knowledge, the San Juans are still subject to tides, currents, puffins and the occasional seal pup and orca in unexpected places.
Having just returned from a 200 mile sweep around the San Juan's, I am fresh with observations and thoughts on how to improve the experience.
Everyone knows that dock space is first come first served and not to expect room for one more when you arrive.
However, there is room for more if you try using some common sense. Somewhere in the mountain of state park dock rules and regs is the suggestion to locate boats close together. Spacing boats fifteen feet apart is not helpful and yet it is common. Tying ones dinghy to the float instead of rafting it is another obvious inconsiderate ploy that effectively exclude others. By the way, did they pay for the extra dinghy footage?
Speaking of dinghy's
Many parks have designated dinghy docks but I see people with fifteen foot inflatables, complete with 50hp outboards, consoles, windshields and bimini's, side tied at the dinghy dock forcing real dinghy's to make do as best they can. What is really annoying is when you realize the offending dinghy belongs to the fifty five footer tied to the same float.
Speaking of bigger or smaller boats
Cnsiderate skippers will let his longish bow area stick out beyond the end of the float so his fifty five feet only uses forty feet of dock. Stop! I know this trick is a bad idea in some locations and for some boats. Obviously, I'm not suggesting being foolish, I'm suggesting being thoughtful and considerate.
While we are talking considerate activities
how long is long enough or too long to run a generator? During my latest visit we were treated to a generator running for eight hour stretches. It was during the daytime and it was fairly quiet but come on, at least get off the dock and anchor out a ways. I was anchored out myself, it must have been no fun at all for the people close by.
I spend some of my non-San Juan boating time around jet skis, water skiers, tubers, newbies, loud music and alcohol-fueled people enjoying the water.
As such, I expect close encounters, big wakes and general on-water mayhem. But not in the San Juan's, the San Juan's attract an older more refined, mature crowd. We have miles of room to navigate, there is really no reason for close encounters. Jet skis are outlawed and proper boating is the norm. On this visit, a thirty-five footer at high speed overtook us and passed by so close they would have hit us if I had turned unexpectedly. I had no time to react, their wake rolled us so violently that one crew was thrown out of their seat and some of our belongings came crashing off shelves and out of cabinets breaking on the cabin sole. I regret I did not get a picture or name of the offending boat. I am not embarrassed that acting on reflex, I cussed them over the radio. Then after realizing in my haste I may not have keyed the mike, I did it again clearly to make sure they heard. I hope they heard me but my antenna was down with the inflatable on the roof so my range was greatly reduced. I apologize for my last paragraph, I'm still reeling when I think about the incident.
On an up note, at Jones Island, as we were anchoring, a skipper at the float yelled over to us that he was leaving in a few minutes. We aborted lowering the hook and moved over, thank you very much.
Also at Jones, we thought we lost a cell phone, trail mix and passports in a drybag at our camp site, only to find it two days later where a raccoon had stashed it in the bushes, unharmed but chewed on.
More than a decade ago I installed an outboard bracket to carry the dinghy motor on the back of my
40-year-old Nordic Tug.
The transom-mounted bracket allows me to store the 5hp Honda and easily transfer it to and from the dinghy. Thinking way ahead, I mounted the bracket down low so that if I ever needed an emergency push or trolling kicker, I would lower the motor, connect the fuel line and away we'd go.
Well it finally happened.
Last month, the tug made a strange sound so I shut off the motor and began drifting. Because I had forgotten how the mechanism worked and fiddling with it while hanging over the transom was very uncomfortable, it took me a few minutes to get the prop in the water and the fuel line connected. After about ten pulls the motor came to life and we were ready to go.
Holding the cowling
Facing backward, I pointed it at what I guessed was straight ahead. I shoved the gearshift into forward and twisted the tiller to a medium-fast idle. At first, we didn't move but then it was apparent our nearly ten thousand pounds was actually making headway. Because I was hanging over the back and couldn't see where we were going, I yelled to Linda, asking if we were pointed okay or if I should try steering. Her answer was not helpful.
I made my way inside the cabin and determined we were indeed headed for a mud flat. I turned the wheel and observed an agonizing slow response. The gps showed we were making 4 mph but our smallish rudder is designed to have the force of the diesel engine pushing our 18" prop wash against it. The outboard is far over on one side and actually behind the rudder. Never the less we began turning away from the shallows.
So, the system worked. I can't say I am impressed with performance but it will beat using the canoe paddle that I keep on board. The two gallon fuel tank will be very limiting and I am aware that the outboard can't be lowered with the dinghy on its davits.
I know others have get-home plans and motors, and I thought some might benefit from hearing my experience.
This post first appeared in this web site in 2011. Parking and launching fees at Cornet Bay have since gone up a little.
Camping, traveling, vacation rentals, condo's, and resorts on a budget,
Is it even possible?
Yes it is. Inexpensive (cheap) vacations are possible if you, "go by boat" or yacht as some say. The trick is to already own the yacht and then camp on it at all the great places. Think of it like going to RV parks only without the garish over the top land schooners parked in the best spots.
If you are a newbie to the San Juan Islands boating group, you may ask, Why is Deception Pass State Park Your Ideal Starting Point?
The Simple answer is that this Washington park has the best all-weather, all-tide launching ramp and long-term parking lot.Plus, Deception Pass is one of the places to see that you should not miss, and the Cornet Bay dock is a wonderful place to overnight or just hang out for a few days.
The Google photos above with labels will help you to orient yourself. Because slow boats must time their passage through the pass you may find yourself spending the night at the dock. I always plan to spend the first night at the dock because after driving six hours, rigging and launching my sailboat, it's late and I'm tired. My crew can fish, hike and race around in the dinghy while I take a break. The next day I'm ready to go, and cast off at slack tide which may be at noon or 9am. The time doesn't matter, I'm on vacation time now.
The launch fee is around $6, parking is $10/day and staying at the dock is 50 cents a foot. The ramp has three or four lanes with floats. Trailer parking is abundant and long-term. You can anchor out for free, anytime, anywhere. There is a fist of quarters shower that short times you in the bathroom. Lots of locals and campers come down to fish off the floats, but boats tying up have priority. Try explaining that to a fisherman.
It is a very short run out the pass, under the bridge and into the Strait of Juan De Fuca, where high seas or fog may cause you to change your plans, if so, just head the other way to Swinomish Channel. If you have never cruised the channel before, do it for sure, it only adds about 15 miles to your trip and is well worthwhile. Or when you come back a week or so later, use the channel, but try to work it into your plans. FYI, your boat will need to make 10 mph or better to overcome the worst of pass current, otherwise you will have to time it like the rest of us. Of course with a favorable current you can rush on through, but the standing waves can be pretty big at times and an open bow boat will seem like a poor choice. The pass is narrowest directly under the bridge, so you will have a fast current for only a very short distance.
Dock and ramp at Deception Pass State Park (Cornet Bay)
You should run through Deception Pass for the beauty of it.
Next door is Canoe Pass,
and while navigable, Canoe Pass should only be used at slack water, it is very narrow and sight distance restricted right under the bridge. It is a little creepy when the whirlpools turn on and begin spinning you towards the rock cliff face. Sometimes, we take our 9' dinghy with its 7.5 hp motor around Pass Island and wave to the gawkers on the bridge, but when the flood or ebb starts cascading, a tiny little dinghy has no business in either pass.
When you come back a week or so later and are ready to head home you can wait for slack water outside the pass at the dock in Sharpe Cove or Bowman Bay.
I always spend my last night at the dock, and get a good rest for the long drive home.
Tall ship ghosting through the pass at high slack water (photo taken from the bridge)
In 60 minutes standing waves 3-6 feet tall may form and the current will be 5-8 mph
Swinomish Channel is itself a very picturesque not to miss
part of all great cruises.
I would be remiss to not point out that most boats can transit the pass a good deal before or after slack water, slack water is simply zero current like in the picture. Also, don't forget that Swinomish Channel is just around the corner and avoids the pass altogether.
Click below for a satellite view of Deception Pass
For first-timers to the Friday Harbor Marina, it is really handy to know where your assigned slip is in a maze of fairways and other boaters.
Even regular visitors can forget where G-dock is or which side are the odd-numbered slips!
Does anyone see the dinghy dock? (It's at the end of A-dock)
Tip #1 Ask for a slip close to land, that quarter-mile walk gets old real fast!
Tip #2 If your visit includes loading and unloading passengers and gear, save yourself a long walk and use the loading dock below the marina office. (just motor past the fuel pier) The side-facing land is for public use. The other side is for VIP's
Tip #3 Call the "Friday Harbor Master" for slip assignment, call on channel 66 or use your cell phone. Or simply tie up to breakwater "A" when you arrive.
