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    • • Discover boat-in spots from Sucia’s anchorages to the trails of Stuart and Jones Island
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    • • Find serene, secret coves • Your adventure begins now!
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Dec 28, 2015

SAVE YOUR RUBBER

How do you protect trailer tires?

Simple - cover with black plastic.

I have always known the devastating effects of UV radiation.
  How can you miss hearing about it with today's instant internet news?


If you are like me, you have pretty much ignored it though - that is, until about ten years back when I had two of my travel trailer tires pop one at a time while on a trip.


On close inspection, all four had simply rotted with age.  They had very few miles and virtually all the tread was perfect.


UV radiation is more than just sunshine - it's all daylight all the time.


My trailer boater days run from spring to Christmas, then I change the oil and put the boat away for about 4-5 months.  Now I also cover my tires so I wont be buying new ones.


You can probably get some tire sacks from your local tire store, but I don't like the bright colors and I already had some extra 6 mil plastic.


All I did was cut the plastic into a long enough strip to circle my wheel and then use my desk stapler to close the top leaving an open gap in the back for the axle.


BTW, my covers frustrate cats and dogs too.
uv cover protects rubber from damage

Save your tires - black construction plastic stapled into a bag shape
another cheap  option --  use big black or green garbage bags





Click below to see Doe Island

Dec 9, 2015

Nine Little Coves and Backdoors in the San Juan's

     Where are the  off-the-beaten-path and hidden gems of the San Juan Islands?   

 It's easy to go to the marine parks and jostle with the other boaters at the dock or scramble amongst a minefield of anchors and buoys.  Sometimes seclusion and communing with nature is simply a matter of going around the point.



East cove Matia Island  facing Lummi in the San Juan Islands
Low tide and still lots of water for anchoring, but open to swell from
 Rosario Strait.

       As with all gunkholing and exploring, you must be vigilant, watch for rocks, know your tide range and proceed dead slow  or pay the price.
Speaking of paying >>>   paying the price
  Suggested backdoors, (none preferred over another) and places to get away from other boaters.

  • Matia Island:  Matia Cove is a fairly long indent (see pic) at the east end of the island and holds several boats. An unnamed cove is just around the corner from Rolfe Cove where Matias dock is located.  Both these coves offer anchorage away from the usual hustle and bustle.
  • Sucia Island: Snoring Bay is between Echo Bay and Fossil Bay on Sucia and Ewing Cove is accessed via Echo bay on the northeast side.  Both coves offer access to the Sucia trail system, and may have anchor buoys still intact.
  • Saddlebag Island:  This state park is so little visited, you may consider the entire island a backdoor, but there is a second minor cove on the south side with a great view of Cap Sante should the northside be full up.
  • Inati Bay on Lummi Island is located on the southeast side of Lummi Island.  This medium size cove holds a handful of boats and is a perfect storm refuge when you are caught on your way to or from Squalicum Harbor.
  • Cypress Head: The normally used cove with anchoring and buoys is on the north side of the isthmus and open to passing wakes, but the long cove on the south side of the isthmus is easily navigated and may be calm. Watch your depth here.
  • Doe Island State Park: The last we looked (2015) the float was still gone but you can anchor here in relative peace and protection.
  • East Sound:  If you're at Eastsound (the city) and it gets dark, you can anchor in Judd Bay on the far north end (left side) of East Sound.  You will be a long dinghy ride from the Eastsound dock, which does not allow overnighting.  Anchoring near the county dock is liable to be rolly after dark.
  • Roche Harbor:  If  crowds drive you bonkers and you want to run away, just run two miles to Westcott or Garrison Bay.  Anchor anywhere but watch your depth and don't block access.  You wont be totally  secluded or alone, but you will be away from the mob at Roche.
  • Smallpox Bay:  This small bay is on the Haro Strait side of San Juan Island just a few miles south of Roche Harbor  (scoot through Mosquito Pass) it's a dinghy ride to shore  at this San Juan County Park where campers watch for orca's.
  • There are lots more hidden places, too many to list but you can use the search box for them. Search - coves, bays, anchoring, camping, parks, things to do, places to go, etc.
      You can anchor off to one side virtually anywhere but you may suffer wakes.  I left out well known places like Blind Bay, Fisherman Bay, Parks Bay. which will all be crowded.  I wanted to suggest mostly secluded easily overlooked locations that will be appreciated by the discerning recluse. 

Nov 10, 2015

Where do you go on a Typical Cruise to the San Juan Islands -- What does a week long Itinerary include?

     What is a perfect San Juan Islands cruise?   

Okay, sorry - that was a trick question.
There are no perfect cruises, only typical cruises.

Aspiring San Juan cruisers might be a little nervous and holding back making that long talked about trip.  If you are not quite sure you have it figured out and need a little push to take off for the San Juans, let me assure you that you can do it. Everything doesn't have to be figured out. To help you take the plunge and to entertain vicarious armchair captains, I have put together a simple rundown of one of our outings in the San Juans. 

      Our cruises start out with a general idea and a few hard dates, but no carved-in-stone  plans.  It just happens. 
There are no typical cruises.

       In the months (year maybe) leading up to actually departing, we talk and think about what we want to do.  Kinda daydreaming if you will. Part of our early dreaming included young children, and that morphed into teenagers, which morphed into adults on their own boats.

This time:
  • I wanted to Orca watch off San Juan Island in Haro Strait.
  • I wanted to visit Victoria without rushing.
  • I hoped to see English Camp and hike Young Hill again.
  • I wanted to hang out, and have a campfire on Jones, and go dinghy sailing in the bay, and maybe circle the island if conditions are favorable.
  • I had already promised Linda a romantic dinner in Friday Harbor
  • We had a firm date to pick up our kids in Eastsound - with bikes and gear.
  • We had a firm date to drop the kids at Odlin Park on Lopez (these kids are 30 something's)
  • I promised I would drop the kids somewhere they could catch the ferry back to Anacortes.
  • I semi-promised I would take them to some neat places they could only get to by boat.
  • I wanted to ride my bicycle some since I bring it everywhere.
  • We knew we would start at Squalicum Harbor in Bellingham for the great ramp and free parking.

So that pretty much sums up my plans, or you could call this a one plus week or so San Juan Island's itinerary.


Let's see what we really did:
  1. 1st night, I slept like a baby on board at Squalicum Harbor after pigging out at a  Chinese buffet in Bellingham.
  2. 1st morning, had a great but costly breakfast downtown, (always hungry after Chinese), and then cast off about noon and head for Inati Bay for a look-see at the logging operation dropping logs in the bay. We have lots of time, so I detoured through Pea Pod Rocks over to Doe Island to verify the dock is still missing, it is, and then we stopped by Shaw Landing for a cold Coke and a quick look around to check out bicycling possibilities. Next, we moseyed past Deer Harbor and on to setting the hook at Jones Island before dark.  Fire danger has canceled campfires anywhere in the state (again) so I cross off number four on my list of things I want to do.  But it's ok, who wants smoky clothes anyway? We cooked hot dogs on the stove and cracked open the 1st boxed wine. 
  3. Drip coffee on the boat is how every day begins.  We headed out mid-morning on the north side of Spieden Island into Haro Strait for whale watching and a lazy run to Victoria.  A couple of hours later,  all hell broke loose on us and over the decks. The little ship was tossed, we were tossed, provisions were tossed. It's not long before I lost interest in whale watching (couldn't see anything anyway) and Victoria and said to heck with this bs and turned toward Roche Harbor. Scratch one and two from my list. We pounded into Roche Harbor and peacefully putted right by the resort and on to English Camp, where we anchored and then got a spot at the dinghy dock and enjoyed walking around the park. Some volunteer hosts entertained us in the interpretive building. When leaving I continued out Mosquito Pass and took another stab at Haro Strait and big waves.  We turned around quickly to putt putt right by the Roche Harbor marina, again without stopping.  We anchored back at Jones in my favorite corner in time for a nice hike.
  4. Spent the next two days hiking (two days we could've been at Victoria) and reading at Jones, (and washing dried salt crystal from windows) finally at 5pm on our 4th night we tried to start the motor to discover the starting battery had shorted (could've been at Victoria) and the house battery was too discharged to help. Two hours later (another story), we got her going with help from the generator, and headed for Eastsound and tied up at the county dock just before sunset.
  5. 8 am, there is a warning ticket tied to our lifeline by the local sheriff for overnighting at the dock.  We have a really great breakfast in town and hitch a ride to NAPA, by noon our new battery is online, and our daughter and her husband show up on bicycles after riding the 7:30 ferry from Anacortes. They drop some gear and pedal off to tour the local brewery.  Eventually, we take off for Jones, where we anchor back in the very same spot, waving to the folks we met earlier. Still can't have campfires, but there is plenty of time to beachcomb and hike around. The kids camp on shore, not the boat, that was a hard, fast deal we made before agreeing to meet up.
  6. This morning, we head for the county dock on Stuart Island.  We spent a busy day riding out to the lighthouse museum and the shut-down schoolhouse museum.  I bought a T-shirt at the honor system T-shirt stand. We then motored all the way across the San Juans to the county dock at Odlin Park on Lopez, where we drop the kids and their bikes on the dock and then anchored in front of their reserved campsite and dinghyed their gear ashore.  It's close to 5 pm, we say adios and run over to Friday Harbor where we take a slip for two nights.  Alone again,  we talked and hung around the promenade enjoying the local musicians. This was a busy day, but it worked out great. We are really tired.
  7. We start out this next day by sleeping in, eating on the boat, and then walking around town, we end up riding the Transit Bus out to Lime Kiln (Whale Watch Park) for another shot at spotting Orcas in Haro Strait, but no luck.  Back in town we eat at a water front crab place overlooking the harbor, its not romantic, and not very good.  I think number five on the list needs a do-over, but we spent lots of money so someone is happy.  Btw, the kids are bicycling Lopez, but forgot and left their helmets on board with us.
  8. I think we slept in this morning too, after topping off with fuel, we eventually got going back to Lopez to pick up the kids. We did the reverse of when we dropped them off, all the gear came off the beach by dinghy, and the bikes off the county dock.  We left Odlin Park and went straight to Blakey's for double ice creams, we hung around sitting on the lawn and watched deer try to out-lazy us. Boaters came and went getting fuel and zoomed off through Peavine Pass, it was peaceful to be sure.  At about mid afternoon we left Blakely's for Cypress where we snagged a buoy off Pelican beach.  We dinghied ashore and hiked to the top of Eagle Bluff.  An hour later we let go of the buoy and ran down to Cypress Head where we wanted to anchor and the kids could camp but couldn't find a suitable place because of the wind. By now, it was getting late so I took my own advice and headed for dependable Saddlebag Island, anchoring in the cove just a stones throw from the beach.  The kids set up in an empty campsite,  (still no fires)
  9. This morning there is no rush, there seldom is, we have breakfast burritos, and then we all hike the figure eight shore trail from different directions.  From Saddlebag Island State Park, it's only five miles to Washington Park where they left their car when they biked over to ride the ferry four days earlier. They wanted to get back to the car around 1 pm so we pulled the anchor at noon.  We dropped them at the Washington Park dock with their gear and bikes, and then, alone once again, we headed north for Squalicum Harbor where we tied to the transient float for our last dinner and night on the boat.
      From my lame descriptions, you should be able to follow our course on the maps or charts.  The distances are small enough that just about any boat could duplicate our wanderings, but that's not the idea.  The idea is to just cut loose and go, charting your own great cruise.


       That's it, that's what a typical cruise is for us today.
 Many years ago a cruise might have included all day sailing in the straits and keeping little kids entertained around tidepools.   
You might want  to stay at Friday Harbor seven nights in a row, venturing out to distant points each day and then returning to a waiting slip and four star restaurants.  You could even sleep on shore at a B&B or hotel.  For me, I prefer to hang at Jones Island.

Here is the promised itinerary if you still want a day by day list of where to go  --  click here  >>


Mt Baker with Ferry Boat












Click below to see >>>Thatcher Pass <<< satellite view

Oct 22, 2015

Touring San Juan Island, Orcas, and Lopez Using Public Transportation and Bicycles and Ferries

Is there a public bus or transportation in the San Juans?       

 Yes. Don't go to Friday Harbor and just stay there. If you do you are missing out.  About once an hour the San Juan Transit van/bus picks up and drops off passengers.  From the marina, simply walk over to the ferry lanes where cars are waiting to board and look for the small four foot wide island between the waiting lanes and the road.  

There's a little sign saying Transit Stop - that's where you wait.

 Look for a schedule on the post.  It will tell you when the next bus leaves.  For five bucks you can ride anywhere, and for five more you can ride back. For fifteen bucks you can ride all day back and forth everywhere.  Kids are cheaper.


       The talkative drivers will give you a mini tour guide talk while taking you over  to Roche or to whale watch at Lime Kiln.

        So, get on the bus, get off somewhere and hang around, get on the next bus, and repeat. When you've had enough, go back to the marina and talk to your neighbor boat people who went nowhere.

        Lopez and Orcas transit bus/vans are the same, except with different stops (you think?)

Click here to go to the page with all the schedules and links and much more
public transportation in the San Juan Islands
all---aboard!

Click below to see the >>> Eastsound county dock <<< satellite view

Oct 21, 2015

Where are the BIG grocery stores on Lopez, Orcas, San Juan Island?

     Are there any major stores in the San Juans?

Yes, the four main islands, all have stores.

 When you cruise somewhere with no local knowledge, you must bring it with you or make do as best you can. That's how you avoid buying $5 wine for $20, and getting outdated perishables.


        Just about all little landings have snack bars and minimally stocked shelves, and I admit I buy lots of stuff from these guys and so should you.  If we don't support them with our purchases they will not stay in business. When they are gone, everyone loses.  


        But,  what about the other products that the little guys simply don't have?

These places have major stores with everything we want.

  • Lopez Village
  • Friday Harbor
  • Eastsound
  • Cap Sante  (Anacortes)
  • La Conner
  • Roche Harbor

Lopez Village: 

 This is a hard one to get to from a dock, but you can dinghy ashore, here's a link to get you provisions.  Anchoring and Getting ashore at Lopez Village
The store is about a one block easy walk.  You can walk from the Islander in Fisherman Bay, but its further than I want to carry groceries.  You can bicycle from Odlin Park in twenty minutes.


Friday Harbor:  

The marina will let you park in a slip or at the breakwater while you walk up to Kings Market. It's about two blocks right on the main street, you cant miss it. This is a big and busy place and so close you can run up from the boat when your cooking breakfast and need eggs.

Eastsound: 

 It's kind of a long run up East Sound to Eastsound but the store is big and only one block to walk from the county dock.  Note: the dock is small, you may not get to park the mother ship and may have to anchor and dinghy over. One time we dragged the dinghy up on to the dock because there was no room in the water, you can also beach the dinghy and climb up a trail.   Don't worry, you will get to the store one way or another.  BTW - Eastsound has a good assortment of places to eat, yum.

La Conner:  

There are three public docks scattered along the city waterfront,  all right on main street.  (these docks are not at the marina, which is a little longer walk)  Once on shore, walk to the  left on the main drag to the stop sign and then follow the only main street to the right.  Follow this street about one block to the towns grocery store, it's pretty big, keeps long hours and is only two blocks from boat at worst.   
Chart of Laconner public docks and boat ramp
The above map shows the five tie up floats at La Conner and the red dot is the grocery store, (no, not the dot marking the boat ramp under the bridge)

Cap Sante 

(Anacortes):  The store is a full size Safeway and is directly across the street from the marina.  Call the harbor master to arrange for a short term shopping slip.  If you are transiting Swinomish Channel, its just a small detour into Cap Sante to provision.

Roche Harbor: 

  Lastly, don't forget Roche Harbor for groceries.  The store is right at the top of the marina gangway.  You can get a free slip assignment for shopping or anchor out and dinghy over to one of several dinghy docks.  You could even walk upstairs while getting fuel.  The Roche Harbor store is the smallest of the bunch but is complete and stuffed to the gills.


More Stores:

Yes, but those are the biggies with complete inventories.  The smaller stores include Blakely's, Rosario, Deer Harbor, West Beach, Shaw Landing, Orcas Landing, Cornet Bay at Deception Pass, and that's pretty much all of them. 


Click below for the La Conner Grocery Store

Oct 20, 2015

What's in your Galley? - improvements, hacks and tricks for our San Juan Cruising and Boat Camping

         First some background thinking - most of us simply use the boat we have the way the PO (previous owner) set it up, plus some of our own tinkering.  Once in awhile though we get to make a major decision. 

For example; about twenty  years back we acquired a boat with a pump up alcohol cook top, and of course it was a useless rusty piece of stainless (s)crap so over the side it went.  (dumpster) My cheap rush rush solution was to nail a piece of plywood over the gap where the alcohol stove used to take up, and set my propane camp stove on top. And then we took off for the San Juans or somewhere.

        Later I replaced the nails with screws and painted plywood for formica on plywood and created a pretty nice looking counter top.  Of course while underway the propane camp  stove is stowed away.  Boring - Ok, what I learned was how well the set up worked. Over the years several of our boats have had factory propane ovens, some with gimbals, and I admit they were nice, but they also took up precious space 100% of the time. Don't forget the propane bottle fills a locker too.

           So let's fast forward to Kraken to see what we do today.  Thanks to the PO, Kraken has a Dickinson diesel stove which gets zero use in the summer because its primary function is to blast us out of the boat in freezing weather, which it does very well. Our cast iron soot belching mini monster  takes forever to heat up and cool off, but for now, I put up with it in spite of the baggage, weight, space,  and occasional tantrums.  (to be honest, this is not what we do today, we upgraded to propane and got rid of the diesel stove and never regretted it)
Bristol diesel stove
Our  Dickinson Bristol with door open - yes,  the oven on your boat is bigger.


      I could have set kitchen dishes etc. on the cold cook top, but I opted for a cleaner counter and varnished up a scrap of plywood with little spacer legs.
Counter top over diesel stove
See!

But wait there's more.  I made sure my camp stove would sit comfortably on top.
boat camping with portable cook stove
I also whacked up a set of shims for leveling, which we use once in awhile when making pancakes.


Here's more in our galley bag of  tricks.
cook top oven by coleman
This cool Coleman oven fits just fine, and is just a smidge bigger than the Dickinson, (see the same tray)
It also heats and cools as fast as the flame can be turned on or off.  This set up makes fantastic biscuits, pizza and cookies, I highly recommend it


Wait, it gets better.
cook top oven and drip coffee maker
Our camp drip drip coffee maker fits too!
Hot cinnamon rolls and coffee anyone!
(guilt free boating at its best)

Everything gets easily stowed, and we get our counter space back.
folding oven
The oven folds up into that little box and fits under the Dickinson next to the camp stove

And that's the way our galley stove works.

Galley improvements on Nordic Tug
BTW - when the diesel stove is hot we place the camp stove on the counter to the left of the sink and  carry on.
The rest of the story, follow this link and then scroll way down to our last straw with soot and the diesel stove replacement.  new propane stove install




Click below for satellite view of CapSante

Aug 19, 2015

Broken Battery at Jones Island Hardly Slowed Us Down - Or is it more proof that paying it forward really works

  What happens when your boat breaks down?   

You have a few options, Fix it yourself, get help from another boater, call for a tow. We managed to fix it on our own.

This post could go several ways
I'll list a few.  
#1 More proof that paying it forward is alive and well
#2 Evidence that being prepared helps (well duh)
#3 Dumb luck favors the ignorant (not true, but it reads well)
#4 Redundancy - redundancy - redundancy
#5 Do County Cops work late?
#6 Do regular auto parts work on boats?


I'll just hit the important points. 

     We were on the hook at Jones for two days, the battery switch was clearly on #1, saving #2 for starting.  Lights and the fridge killed #1 as expected.  But what we did not know, was that #2 had shorted while in rough water out in Haro Strait and now only held 6-8 volts -it sounded like this -- #2 click click, #1 click click, oh crap!  #both click click, shit!  


I fired up the portable Honda 2000 and plugged in the shore-power cord, plus I plugged in my portable smart charger, only to discover that my onboard Guest 2 bank smart charger wasn't smart enough to coexist with my portable smart charger, meaning nothing worked -  grrrrrr.

One and a half hours later, after separating wiring charging circuits and waiting and waiting, the diesel fires up.  I am of course, not going to turn it off for anything.

Previously (before discovering all my batteries are dead) I had pulled the stern anchor, against my own advice to not pull anchors until the motor is idling. So I'm frantically re-anchoring my dead boat from grrrrr- the dinghy - nice show for everyone at Jones Island watching and wondering what I am doing.

When we arrive at the San Juan County Dock in Eastsound 2 hours later, I squeeze our thirty feet onto fifteen feet of vacant dock right under the sign saying four hours max. (or is it two?)and -no over-nighting- grrrr

At midnight the local constable wrote us a warning and taped it to the stern rail. It said -vacate immediately- or risk getting cited.  Midnight! grrrrrr, I know it was midnight cause he wrote 11:55 pm in the box.

The next day, a really nice guy living offshore in a boat gave us a ride to NAPA,(he owned a rusty Land Cruiser)(it was his inflatable I squeezed) and he carried the new battery down to the boat for me (see, paying it forward works).

By noon we were in good shape and on our way back to Jones Island.
Sunset in the San Juan's maybe?

        OK, lets wrap this up.   Our misadventure turned out to be slightly inconvenient at most.  We got to bike around Eastsound and had breakfast out.  The battery I bought, I would have bought anyway.  We met a nice guy.  It was creepy knowing a cop had been hanging around our boat while we slept.

The lessons learned are:
  1. don't pull anchors until the motor is running or your ready to hoist sail
  2. don't leave home without the Honda. (we have a Honda kicker too)
  3. get an old fashioned dumb charger for the tool bag
  4. have two batteries that work if you're going cruising overnight
  5. stuff happens, and things break at inconvenient places -  be prepared
  6. be flexible, take it easy  (and bring a credit card)



Aug 1, 2015

Current Page Tables for use with the Canadian Current Atlas of the San Juans

     Are the old current charts still accurate?   

Yes, they will be good forever, it is the page number that you need to know because like the tides they repeat year after year but you need to know which pages have the correct charts for your cruise.  Just like tide forecasts need a date/time and location to be useful, so do the current charts.

Here is  a url to find date tables for use with the Canadian Current Atlas. There are others online, or you can do the mathematics outlined in the front of the Canadian Atlas.

http://code.borsboom.io/current-atlas-tables/

If you don't know what this is referring to, you need to go to the Current Atlas guide posting several years ago  >> go now by clicking this link 

Current atlas for San Juans and Gulf Islands


BTW if you find something you like, or helps you, you should say so.  Lots of people work for nothing, not even a thank you!

No No Not me, I work for nothing cause I'm bored
JR
how to use Current guide and charts for the San Juan's
Big arrows are faster currents. An hour later or earlier will be different. What you need is a date and time for this forecast. That's why you need a page table for the current atlas, just like you need the date and time when you look up tide forecasts.

Jul 29, 2015

What's new at Stuart Island Lighthouse

Turn Point Lighthouse on Stuart Island: A Must-Visit Stop for San Juan Islands Boaters.

The Lighthouse and museum are a tried-and-true cruiser's destination that never disappoints. 

First I need to tell you that as of this posting, Boundary Pass Traders is still in business selling T-shirts along the road to Stuart Island Lighthouse. 

 For those of you that don't know, Boundary Pass Traders is a local family business, they have two unmanned sales kiosks complete with fresh water.(after hiking up the hill you will appreciate a drink) They sell screen printed t-shirts on the honor system.  One booth, (more like an opening in the trees that resembles an upscale homeless camp) is next to the schoolhouse at the top of the long grueling hill coming up from Reid Harbor.  The other and newer location is at the intersection of the road coming from the county dock.  This means if you walk from the state park you will stroll by both, but if you walk from the county dock at Prevost Harbor, you will only see the one.  Moving along - You  make your choice from ten or more San Juan Island themed shirts, and then when you get home, mail them a check in the provided envelope. (or pay online) that's right, they trust you! We picked out an adult size replacement shirt for our youngest son, (think "Pirates of the San Juans")  to replace his stretched out, frayed, and faded child size he picked out many years ago.

Decked out outhouse at Stuart Island lighthouse
Volunteers at Stuart Island Lighthouse keep a pretty spiffy privy

more - click here

Jul 17, 2015

Are you throwing away FREE MONEY ?

Why not Give it to someone that wants it!
Boat Dollars

(I actually don't run any ads because I don't think the teeny tiny return is worth annoying readers. But the concept is still valid.)

Here is the deal. Lots and lots of people that you know have websites (like this one) and advertise products. When a click is registered or a product is ordered, the website gets paid. (same as boat dollars)

For instance someone clicked an Amazon advertisement on this site and bought a $25.00 item, since they started here (this site) and ultimately bought something, this site got about  a buck (boat buck)

So, if you are planning to buy something from  Amazon anyway (You know they sell everything in the world), why not give someone the free money?  Go to your favorite site first,(this site) then click an Amazon ad, then buy anything you want, it does not need to be what is advertised.

Now go tell everyone you know to come here first -- to order anything Amazon sells.
(free boat bucks stop here)
~John~

TRY THIS link TO YOUR FAVORITE EATERIES AND COFFEE SHOPS -  Restaurant gift cards

Just so you know, I gave some thought to deleting this post, but I thought it might be entertaining.





Jun 27, 2015

Puget Sound is not the San Juan Islands, but if you want to try cruising somewhere new, it's a logical choice.

What is a good boating itinerary in South Puget Sound?

A good South Puget Sound boating itinerary is a loop from Olympia’s Swantown Marina, visiting multiple Washington State Parks along the way, with options to extend into Lake Union and  Lake Washington. This easy cruise offers protected waters and an easy multi-day route for exploring the region.  

Puget Sound is different things to different folks.  If you read a few articles or listen to more than one traveler you will likely come away with some overlapping opinions. Lots of people think the San Juans and Puget Sound are the same.  They are not.

   On your NOAA chart, there is a place labeled Puget Sound, it's offshore from Seattle all the way up to Whidbey Island.  Virtually every body of water is named something.  Names sometimes include a descriptive hint, such as bay, passage, inlet, cove, strait, and of course sound. Did I miss any besides Canal and Channel? Oh yeah, bank, shoal, flats...


       Some of us consider, Puget Sound (as an area) to encompass everything salty, from the Strait of Juan De Fuca south.  So this means both sides of Whidbey Island are included, but not the northwest side that faces the San Juans and Vancouver Island, or Anacortes, or Bellingham. I like to think of Bellingham as on Bellingham Bay and Anacortes as up Guemes channel a bit from Rosario Strait. So where does that put Olympia or Friday Harbor?


     We started in Olympia, at Swantown Marina,
 and so should you. 

 There are numerous ramps scattered around the area, but nothing compares to the Port of Olympia facilities, they have the welcome mat out more than any (boating) city we have ever visited, bar none.  I haven't forgotten the praise I lavish on Squalicum Harbor in Bellingham, but the entire waterfront at Olympia is boater friendly, which bumps them to the head of my list.


       At Swantown, is a two-lane all-tide ramp, open 24/7 with a long-term parking lot for only $3/day.  Transient moorage is abundant, both at the ramp and a short walk away, at the old town waterfront.  Don't make a mistake and think of Olympia as simply a place to splash the boat and take off from.  Plan your trip to include one or more nights or days at the dock, and bring your bikes, you will be glad you did.


      Rather than gush over Olympia, let's get going north. On this trip, our turnaround point is Lake Washington.  This means we will wander a circuitous course to Seattle, visiting as many Marine State Parks as we can.  At Seattle, we will go through the Ballard Locks, through Lake Union (Lake Union is the downtown area you see from the freeway), and into Lake Washington to spend the night anchored at Seward City Park.  All total we will visit eleven parks, bike and hike most of them, spend seven nights at docks, one at anchor, and motor about 175 miles.  Wow-- when I write the specifics it sounds rushed, but we relaxed the entire time.


       Day One: We are in the water and on our way at 5pm, this may seem late to get going, but we only have 8 miles, maybe 16, to our first nights stop. 

We ran the 8 miles to Hope Island State Park, but all the buoys were taken so we continued to the dock at  Jerrel Cove State Park, another easy 8 miles, and with plenty of daylight, why not? 

 Sail-boaters should know that we encountered a low 31-foot fixed bridge providing vehicle access to Harstine Island. You can avoid the bridge by taking the long way around Harstine. Jerrel Cove has two docks, and across the way is a private marina with a store and transient space.  The park is well kept with onsite rangers, car campers, a mile or two of trails that are rideable, and of course, you can head out onto the island roads and ride to your heart's content.  Perhaps I should remind you that, unlike most of the San Juan destinations, all of the places we spent the night are car accessible.  This means you can plan a Puget Sound rendezvous with friends or family to re-supply or switch out crew members.

Jerrel Cove Park float and Puget Sound cruise
Jerrel Cove at low tide, the ramp is as steep as we have ever seen.


Day two: click here

Jun 24, 2015

Do you see me?

 

With skills handed down over the ages, Renee guides her tired old sloop close to the dock. Appearing frail and with shaking hand, she drops a looped line over the stout post bringing the boat to a halt. She ties up fifty feet behind a once grand wooden sailing vessel. The name Sea Gypsy, Victoria BC, is painted in gilded gold across her broad transom. Above her name is a curving eyebrow of five obelisk shaped windows. Her hull is black, her seams tarred and battered from thousands of sea miles. Her sails tattered, hang from long yard arms cut from oak forests long gone. Sea Gypsy, a true relic of the past is berthed at the Victoria Canada public wharf as if waiting for her long gone crew to return.


Holding a knotted rope, Renee steps onto the dock and quickly makes her boats mooring lines fast. Watchful eyes aboard Sea Gypsy watch her technique and study her familiar windblown looks and golden locks. When she looks up and reads the vessels name a chilly shudder of escapes her body in waves across her chest and shoulders. Her blood runs cold and terror shakes her core. She doesn’t know what causes her reaction, she forces herself to look away.


On the dock, a rickety boarding stairway leads to Sea Gypsy’s main deck. The hand written sign says, “free tour – welcome aboard.”


“Ahoy Renee, welcome home.” Says a hollow voice coming from somewhere near the aft deck house.

“Ahoy,” says Renee cautiously, her curiosity working overtime, as she works her way toward the stairs. “Ahoy, permission to come aboard?” she asks as she places her foot over the bull work onto the thick deck timbers.

Renee can hear voices from below decks, people are laughing, she places her foot on the first companionway step and heads down into the main saloon. She ducks her head right into a bunch of spider webs blocking her way. With three sweeps of her hand, she clears the way and steps onto the cabin sole. The dark dank cabin reeks of oil, spiced rum and fish odors from years of being at sea. Two gimbaled oil lamps, with their wicks burning low rock gently with each ocean swell.

“Ahoy, my name is Renee, anyone here.” She feels a nudge against her knee and looks down.

“Bartholomew, where have you been? My brave and loyal Bart.” Renee scoops Bartholomew into her arms and the jet-black cat bites her hand and kicks her until she drops him. Then he rubs against her leg again. She shoves him away with her foot wondering why she knows his name.

Tucked under the stairs is the navigation station dimly lit by a small porthole. Rolls of charts clutter the many pigeonholes like important mail stuck in every cranny. Dry Inkwells with quills and lead markers line the top of the desk. Laying open is one of Sea Gypsy’s log books. The page heading reads crew manifest 1892. The names are English, Irish and some French. Patrick O’Leary, Brendan Shaunessy are listed along with Jean Paul, James Derby and Michael DuPont. Renee turns the pages and stops, her finger runs down the list and stops at ships cat, Bartholomew, black kitten -1899. She flips pages until they turn blank, the last entry is dated 1918. She pulls another logbook from a cubby, it’s dated 1925, she slips it back without opening, pulls out another and begins reading an entry from 1965. The storm raged eerily for five days, dense fog and high seas plagued the ship, several people became insane and mysteriously disappeared from Sea Gypsy.


In the saloon, Renee sees the gimbaled lamps swing and tilt at a slight angle, Sea Gypsy is healing, She looks out the porthole expecting to see the wharf and her sloop, instead she sees roiling seas to the horizon and hears sailing commands.

“Trim that tops’l seaman,” orders the helmsman. “Watch yourselves mates, she’s building, were in for a blow.” Sea Gypsy heels and Renee’s foot slips causing her to fall against the wall, she rubs her head and sits back on the bench seat. Bart rubs her leg, as she attempts to make some sense of everything when the deck door opens and some crewmen come down the steps. One is a boy barely old enough to leave home. He goes straight to a locker and with a large ladle draws water from a barrel lashed in place. He barely finishes a drink when a muffled yell from on deck causes him to run back up the stairs. The two other tired and scruffy looking deckhands disappear down the forward passage. Thoroughly confused, she flips to the last filled in page. It is dated August 1, 2019. 6:30 AM and reads, berthed at Victoria BC seawall to take on provisions and passengers. The next entry reads. Several crew have jumped ship claiming bad spirits and banshees in rigging. Capt. Dupont.


That was yesterday muses Renee. Just then, she hears a yell, coming about. Sea Gypsy’s rigging creaks as she changes course. She heels the other way, the gimbaled lamps swing. Renee glances out the port, land is not far off, and the sun’s rays are now streaming across the desk and beating the sea flat. Stepping around Bart, Renee opens one locker after another until she finds a gallon jug wrapped in a leather pouch. The jug has a stiff handle and sling made of braided jute and is stopped with a carved cork made shiny from thousands of hands. She submerges the jug in the water barrel until the bubbles quit, replaces the cork and shoulders the sling and then takes the companion way steps two at a time. Opening the double door, she latches the door halves back on themselves allowing the cooling breeze to flow below. Renee makes her way aft to the elevated steering station. A bearded tall man steers Sea Gypsy, he watches the sails and the sea ahead, and watches Renee approach him. She holds up the water jug and confidently puts her hand on the large steering wheel.


“Thank you lassie,” says the Captain, “see that the watch crew gets their ration.” He finishes a long draw, hands her the jug and places his hands back on the wheel, his eyes again scan the acres of white sailcloth looking for a fluttering telltale or luffing sheet needing trimming. Renee moves to the fantail where a crewman is fifty feet up in the rigging, she holds the jug up in his direction. He shakes his head and lowers a small line. Renee expertly ties the sling and line together and the jug is quickly hoisted. A minute later the jug is lowered back to her. Renee makes her way forward and repeats the procedure at the main mast and the men handling the winches on the foredeck. She spots a small figure at the bow, a young girl sits on a cargo box staring forlornly out to sea. Her hair is tucked into a knitted cap, her arms tight at her sides.


“Hello, my name is Renee, would you like a drink?” The girl turns and looks at Renee but she appears to be looking past her.

“You see me?” says the girl.

“Of course I see you, why?”

“No one sees me.” She reaches for the jug.

“What’s your name, where are your parents?”

“I don’t know, I think it is Lassie.” She hands the jug back to Renee and returns to starring at the sea.

“Coming about, all hands prepare to tack,” is the command from the helm. Renee watches as Sea Gypsy turns, creaking timbers groan and object as the yards and sails swing to the new heading. When she looks back at the cargo box, the girl is gone. Renee scans the deck for her and then looks over the side. Nothing, the girl has vanished. Feeling parched, she pulls the cork and raises the jug to her lips spilling water. The jug is full.


A blinding flash draws Renee’s eyes toward shore. Jagged lightning scars the gap from towering black clouds to mountaintops. The sea has gone flat, a somber warning of impending change. Five miles of ocean reflect the spectacle as strike after strike hits rocky peaks. Williwaw squalls born of cold mountain air begin to flow down valleys. Fearful shudders rack Renee. She steadies herself, and then sits on the cargo box where minutes earlier the girl had sat. A carved name in the oak wood draws her attention away from the unfolding dangerous spectacle. Renee Dupont, her name, beckons to her. The carved name was obviously done by someone sitting exactly where she is sitting. Dark weathered edges suggest many years have come and gone. With her eyes closed, she traces her finger, following the deep incisions.

The first gust snaps her back, Renee looks toward shore, her wide eyes and another involuntary shudder betray her fear. The flat ocean has transformed to white caps and spray mist. Sea Gypsy leaps alive, the fresh breeze heels her and the strain in her rigging releases new creeks and groans.


“Trim those sheets sailors,” yells the captain over the increasing wind, “were in for a blow.”


Dirty streams of dust and windblown debris begin snaking down the canyons to the sea. Wind speeds exceed one hundred miles an hour by the time the williwaws spills onto the ocean surface. The dirty brown cloud is a thousand feet high as it races towards Sea Gypsy. The sea itself rebels throwing up wave after wave, the williwaws can’t be contained and turn the wave tops into blinding spray blowing toward Sea Gypsy. Renee watches as nature gives birth to millions of angry children determined to wreak havoc upon anything in their way. Each gust slaps Sea Gypsy’s hull and shakes her rigging. The first of the banshees arrive, taking roost in miles of lines. Their terrifying shrieks match each gust. The wind steadily increases until Renee must brace herself against the cargo box to keep from falling. The once flat sea has become a frothing cauldron, Sea Gypsy heels and races ahead, the wind propelling her and chasing her. Ocean swells build upon each other. At first, they gently lift Sea Gypsy and flow under her but then the biggest windblown monster waves slam her hard. She shudders with each onslaught, her old timbers strain under the attack. Green water breaks over her decks sweeping them clear before flowing through scuppers back into the sea. Renee tries to hangs on, but streaming water forces her from her feet, she tumbles and loses her life saving grip. The next wave carries her across the deck and slams her into the bulwark. Fifty mile an hour wind whistles through Sea Gypsy’s rigging. When she struggles to her feet, Renee hears the mournful wail of the banshees foretelling impending doom. She almost makes it the cabin roof seconds before the next wave, but Sea Gypsy, with a mind of her own suddenly leans and drops like an elevator. In a river of frothing water, Renee slides headlong down the tilting deck, the williwaw whipped sea waves propel her toward the rail and the oceans abyss. Her head hits the bulwark. The torrent flowing up and over the rail drags her with it. Fighting unconsciousness and choking on salt water she desperately claws at the wood timbers. Her leg is drawn through the scupper wedging her temporarily. The next wall of water rolls across the deck pummeling her again. With her body blocking the scupper the water backs up submerging her head. Fighting choking and gagging she holds her breath. She struggles with her wedged leg and manages to turn herself upright. She doesn’t dare pull herself loose or she will risk going overboard. The next wave covers her face, she gulps and inhales seawater expecting her lungs to revolt and burn, she feels nothing.


Renee lifts her head from the chart table; she touches her dry hair and feels her clothes. She glances out the dripping porthole at raging waves and then pulls another logbook from the shelf. Bart rubs her leg, she reaches down, pats his head, rubs his ears and speaks to him.

“Your ear is cut, I didn’t feel this before, I wish you could talk to me Bart, you know what’s happening, don’t you.” She sets the logbook against the fiddle edge on the sloping chart table. The book falls open, the page is dated June 21st the year is missing.

The logbook reads like an adventure novel. We have been sailing north by northeast for three days. A mysterious sloop following Sea Gypsy has closed on us during the dark, they are now one mile behind. With his long glass, the watchman has identified her flag as Spanish. We are flying all available canvas; I fear by nightfall on this longest day of the year, they shall be upon us. The new rat-cat is earning its keep but nearly lost the left ear. The filthy bilge rodents got it by the ear, splitting it by half. Our stores are full and the crew is spirited thanks to a double rum ration in bracing for the fight sure to come.


Renee shoves the open logbook above the fiddle and pets Bart while she looks at his split ear. A wind blows through the cabin turning a few pages of the log. The page open is dated December 1st, the year is not legible, as if time no longer matters. The setting sun sends a narrow beam through the navigators port, Renee follows the dust shrouded shaft of light across the dark cabin. It lands like a laser on a far bulkhead filled with small doors and cabinetry. She pulls on the wood seal-head carved handle. The door does not budge. On a hunch she pushes on the trim and lifts a secret latch, the door easily opens. Inside is a doll.

“Lady Anne Marie,” exclaims Renee, “Look Bart, how did she get in there.” Renee yanks the ragdoll out and cradles it to her chest.



The calm is shattered by a splintering crash from the aft cabin, the captain’s cabin, followed a few seconds later by a far off cannon boom. Renee instinctively protects Lady Anne Marie with her arm and hand and ducks down against the cabin wall. Three more booms are heard but the cannon balls miss Sea Gypsey. The aerial missiles whistle through the air and fall harmlessly in the sea. A seaman races down the companion way and into the captain’s cabin. Renee hears him curse and swear Neptune’s watery revenge upon the ones that did this. The Seaman comes back into the main saloon and makes for the rum barrel, thinks better of it and returns topside.

“Aye Captain, the damage is not pretty but not affecting our sailing or fighting ability. Neptune will have the last word with them.”

“They don’t have our range, or they are useless scallywag’s,” yells a seaman on deck.

“Hold yer fire, you scurvy dogs,” commands Captain Dupont, “you will get your chance. Meanwhile keep those gun ports closed. Prepare to come about, lower the tops’l and the main, bring down the Jack and raise the white flag.” Renee sneaks up the companionway stairs clutching Lady Anne Marie, she peeks out a slatted vent. Sea Gypsy is crawling with sailors. Men are scrambling through the rigging, tucking sails, preparing for action. On deck, gunners are loading six short barrel large bore cannon with spiked balls connected with short sections of chain. Flints are sparked and linstocks are held ready, their hot embers soon to be lighting primers, unleashing billowing smoke and then destruction.

Sea Gypsy’s white flag temporarily stops the fast approaching attacker’s wild firing while the attacking captain accesses his quarry’s action. Renee pushes open the door to get a better view and Bart dashes past her onto the main deck. Without thinking, she chases after him towards the raised aft deck where Captain Dupont is carefully watching the approaching ship.

“Bart, come back here,” she yells, tearing the captain’s attention to her. Bart disappears into an open dorade vent leaving Renee and Lady Anne Marie in the middle of the open deck.

“You there, galley boy,” commands the captain, his icy stare anchoring her to the oily planks. “Get below and stay there. Yeoman,” he nods to the yeoman and the man scoops Renee by the waist and lifts her off her feet. He holds her close as she struggles to free herself. His fish breath and foul odor cause her to recoil.

“If the captain hadn’t taken a liking to you, you would be mine,” he drools, his cracked lips brushing her ear. “A young thing like you can be real nice to have around, on shore you might fetch a handsome price.” Renee squirms, loosening his arm and kicks him painfully just 88as they reach the companionway.

“Get below you little wretch afor I teach you some manners.” He glances up at the captain and decides against striking her or pushing her down the stairs. The yeoman makes sure Renee is below and nothing else, just as the captain had ordered.


The attackers have closed to under a thousand feet when the captain calls for the main sail to be fully raised and trimmed for speed. He throws the helm hard over while yelling coming about. Sea Gypsy rapidly turns until she is heading directly at the surprised vessel.

“Open your ports and prepare to fire, Gun number one lead off aiming for the midship mast, the rest of you take range and follow fore and aft. You will only get one shot, make it count.” Captain DuPont keeps Sea Gypsy on a head-on collision course. The ragtag motley crew of thieves and barbarians on the attacking vessel are sure they are about to be rammed, some relish the moment and the ensuing bloody hand to hand battle sure to follow, but most are in a panic and have abandoned stations.

At only two hundred feet, Sea Gypsy turns again, showing the attackers her broadside and her now open gun ports. The gunners mate makes final aiming adjustments and calls for fire in the hole. The crewman lowers the burning linstock and the stubby mortar style cannon roars to life. Flames spew fifty feet and the mortars payload of nails, spiked balls and chains tears across the sea. Captain DuPonts strategy is simple, destroy the enemy’s rigging and kill as many of the crew as possible. The chains spinning end over end make sure Captain Dupont gets his wish.


The first well-aimed mortar shot clears a swath of men and shreds sails and rigging. Bringing down the masts is the hoped for Coup De Grace. Cannon number one takes out most of the main rigging and damages the mast. The rest of the cannons fire after the effectiveness and aiming of number one is apparent. In one minute, all five cannons let loose their loads. The results are devastating, the attacking ship has lost all its masts and half the deck crew is either dead or maimed.


“Coming about boys.” Yells the helmsman at Captain DuPont’s order. “Take down that white flag.” Sea Gypsy traces a new course directly away from the disabled attacker showing only her narrow stern and billowing white clouds of canvas.


The Captain climbs down the companionway ladder and walks directly at Renee, his eyes on a large rum barrel lashed to the far wall below a row of cups. Holding Bart, she steps out of his way and says to him.

“Is it over, are we safe now?”

He looks past her as if she is not there and does not hear her. He dips himself a large ladle of Rum and fills his cup to the rim sloshing the last of it directly into his mouth. Captain DuPont again passes Renee while wiping his mouth with his sleeve. Bart growls as the Captain strides past them. The logbook is open, he bellies up to the navigation table and continues his latest entry with. The clipper ship that has followed us for three days, over took Sea Gypsy and fired upon us hitting the aft cabin one hour before sunset. Sea Gypsy faced the attacker and with six broadsides, our mortar gunners raked her decks and took down her masts. Continuing on course to Isle Royale. The captain closes the book and places it with others on the shelf below the table and walks into his cabin. He roars his displeasure when he sees the damage brought on by a lucky hit from a single cannon shot.


The ships rocking motion causes Renee to glance out the porthole. All she sees is blackness.

“It has turned dark outside Bartholomew,” says Renee. “I wonder where the crew is, and why isn’t the cook at the galley stove.” Bart struggles to be put down so Renee sets him on the oil stained floor. He immediately darts down the aft passage out of sight. Renee and Lady Anne cautiously follow him. There is one lit gimbaled lantern lighting the way. Bart is clawing at a closed door and mewing. Renee pushes the door open and steps inside. The door swings shut behind her.

“Ewe, what is that smell, “ says Renee to Lady Anne and Bart. It takes a moment for her eyes to adjust to the gloom of a single candle but then she sees it. Sprawled on a bunk is a body, It is dressed in cold weather pants and coat and wool watch cap. The face is hollow with tight skin and sunken empty eye sockets. She can’t look and turns away, the other bunk has a withered dead body on it also. It too is fully dressed as if waiting to be called to duty. In a scared panic, she pulls on the tightly shut door. To her relief, the door opens, Bart dashes out, Renee, clutching her doll, runs out as the door slams behind them. She leans against the passage wall gasping the stale air, visions of the eyeless body following her. Bart is scratching at the focsl’e door where ships stores are kept and sometimes stowaways hide. Renee fights an urge to open the door, not wanting to see another corpse but gives in to the cats insistent clawing and mewing.

“Okay, okay, I’ll open the door.” Bart runs inside, sunlight streams in through two portholes. “Bart, wait, where are you going?” says Renee, talking to the cat. She follows Bartholomew behind a stack of crates and sees him jump onto the lap of the girl Renee had met up on the bow. Bart is rubbing the top of his head against her while she pets him.

“Hello again,” says Renee, “Is he your cat.” The girl stares past her, as if gathering thoughts long lost. “I still see you, just like when we met on deck.” Says Renee wondering if the girl is seeing or hearing her. Bart jumps from her lap and circles Renee’s legs before walking back around the crates towards the door. He jumps through just as Sea Gypsy heels and the door slams shut.

“May I sit here with you?” The girl makes no motion or sound, Renee sits on the crate, slightly facing the girl, her legs are together, hands in her lap, mimicking the girl. An involuntary shudder and cold chill sweeps Renee, just like the feeling she had when she first laid eyes on Sea Gypsy at the dock.

“Do you see me?” says the girl.

“Of course I see you, why wouldn’t I?”

“Do you see me?” says the girl again, ignoring Renee’s answer. Renee shudders again, thoughts of dead people, lost spirits and ghost possessions enter her mind.

“Do you see me?” says Renee and she waves her hand in front of the girl. “You don’t see or hear me, do you?” Renee stands and walks out the door as the girl repeats herself a second and third time. She quietly closes the door behind here and looks for Bart and then realizes she has left Lady Anne Marie on the crate. She opens the door and goes back in the cabin, the room is empty, the girl and Lady Anne are nowhere to be seen. The crate where Renee had sat is covered with thick dust except the spot where she had sat. She brushes her hand on her pants checking for dust, loose particles swirl in the shaft of light coming through the porthole confirming she actually had been sitting there seconds before. Mystified, she steps into the passage closing the door behind her. She pushes and tests the door and resists the urge to look again, fearing the girl or worse, empty eyed corpses will appear. The dim oil lamps swing as the boat leans into the wind. Renee braces herself, sliding one hand along the wall as she walks. The door on the right side is secured with a heavy lock. The door on the left swings with the ships motion. Renee cautiously watches, she peers inside as she creeps along the tilting passage. Her senses are on high alert and she involuntarily



ducks when she feels a draft from above and hears sailing commands. Above her is a skylight deck hatch. The propped open lid, lets in fresh air, and acts as an emergency exit. She looks up through the dirty glass and can see crewmembers in the rigging fifty feet above. Winds buffet the sails and drive the ship forward. She can hear the helmsman ordering sails trimmed and hatches battened down preparing for a storm on the horizon. A foot suddenly kicks the block propping open the skylight above her, the hatch drops shut. Watching from below, Renee sees bony hands insert locking pins. Her eyes follow the hands and arms to a rotting moth eaten hooded tunic. Staring back at her, through glass clouded from decades of dust and spider webs are glowing yellow eyes that pierce to her soul. She steps back against the wall out of sight, but not before a shudder racks her again. The helmsman gives the order to come about and Sea Gypsy stands on her feet momentarily before leaning into a new tack. Rope rigging creaks, as strains test Sea Gypsy’s age-old strength. The cabin door swings open drawing Renee’s attention. She slowly leans forward surveying what she can of the cabin. She sees a large candle burning on a makeshift table. Two portholes should be letting in light but they are dark. Still in the passage Renee looks up at the skylight, it too is dark. The yellow-eyed crewman is gone. Renee places her hand on the door frame and pulls herself inside. Bart flashes past her and stops blocking her way

“There you are, I wondered where you had gone,” says Renee as she leans and reaches to pet him. Bart turns toward her and with sharp hooked claws extended, swings a warning cuff at her face. Then he bares his fangs, lays back his ears and lets out a blood curdling hiss ending in a guttural warning growl.

“What is wrong with you,” says Renee as she abruptly stands up, giving the snarling cat more space. She takes a step to go around Bart, which brings on a new string of hissing and growling. The black cat has puffed up and appears to be about to leap. His yellow eyes glow frightfully similar to the crewman’s eyes that watched her through the hatch. She takes a step back and Bart stops menacing her, his eyes return to normal.

“Okay, I get it Bart,” With only dim candle light she looks around. There are four berths and four trunks. The cabin walls are lined with tattered oiled clothing hanging from wood pegs. Sea boots sit in front of each trunk. The room is orderly as if ready to do its part in keeping Sea Gypsy a smooth running ship. On the bunks lay four crewman. Each fully dressed, their heads facing straight up, hands crossed, ready to leap up and rush to their assigned station. Renee attempts to clearly see faces but in the low light, only sees dark outlines. She takes a half step forward and is met with a growl as if Bart is guarding the crew from being disturbed, or the dead from being awakened. Renee turns and leaves the room with Bart following her. Back in the passage, she looks up expecting to see a dark skylight but it is daytime again. She looks back into the crew cabin and the ports are dark, just then the door swings shut and she hears the sound of latches being slid into place. Bart rubs her leg, his purring loud and clear, she reaches down and pats his head.


Sea Gypsy heels five degrees more as the breeze freshens. With increased wind comes more speed and waves splashing over the side of the boat. Seawater sweeps the decks. Walking the main passageway is difficult for Renee; every step is a fight to stay upright. Like a drunk needing suppot, she lurches along the wall.. Heavy timbers groan their opposition, tormented rope rigging squeals unearthly shrieks as they work against each other. With the winds, Banshees arrive; their terrible foreboding floods the air as they dart between Sea Gypsy’s tall masts and long yards. Renee struggles down the passage. The next skylight hatch is dark, she nervously looks up, fearing hollow yellow eyes will be watching her. She makes it to the main cabin and stops at the swinging door. The door is new.

“This wasn’t here earlier.” she whispers quietly, “where did this door come from.” She hears voices streaming from the other side and strains to listen. The language is strange. Renee bravely pushes on the door, her eye at the open crack, the hinge creaks a warning, the ships saloon is empty, the voices are gone. Bart is lying on a shelf above the cook stove. Oil lamps swinging on gimbals light the large room. Renee steps inside letting the door swing shut behind her. The dank, oily, mustiness is gone, replaced by the smell of baking tinged with heavy molasses. She exhales first and then takes a deep approving breath, thankful there are no people or otherwise in the room.

“Are we friends again,” she says to Bart as she reaches to pet him. Bart stretches and loudly purrs his appreciation. “What’s happened here Bart, it looks like the place has been remodeled, new stove, new lockers, look, a new nav. station too.” Renee spots the logbook open on the chart table. She hasn’t seen it before, the pages are white, not yellowed, a quill pen lays in the fold. Fearing learning a horrible secret about herself and Sea Gypsy, she tries to look away. She is drawn to the book and succumbs to curiosity and reads the first line.


September 15, 17…. Reads the first line, the year is blurred, Renee is unable to focus. She squints and rubs here eyes but nothing works. She quickly turns pages but none of the dates are clear. The next line reads, I think we have been at sea for fifty days and not seen land since rounding the cape and entering a great fog. The navigator has lost time and day. The fog has taken on a life and rules Sea Gypsy. The crew is restless, dissent is everywhere. Fights are breaking out among friends. Some crew have become possessed and I have been forced to send them to meet their maker. Order is restored but I fear an evil spirit is with us. I no longer captain the ship, I simply steer her. Where I steer does not matter, the course I set means nothing. She has a mind of her own. The words Renee reads do not do not go far in explaining all the strange happenings, in fact she wonders if she herself is becoming possessed.


Renee looks out the navigators porthole and sees solid white. Sea Gypsy is riding flat with no motion, the familiar slap of small waves against her wood hull is absent. Since she has entered the main cabin, the ocean has gone from high wind, banshees and big waves to become a placid lake. In the forward cabin it was dark outside the ship, now in an eye blink, walking through a door, it is daylight but all pure white daylight. She looks up through the large saloon skylight, white mist stares back at her. The mast and rigging fades in and out of view as thick wisps of fog block her vision. Renee glances back at the log book to the line reading, “entering a great fog,” and wonders, could this be the same great fog.


Drawn out of curiosity or beckoned by some shipboard presence, Renee is compelled to climb the main companionway steps to the deck. She reluctantly steps out into a thick mist unlike any she has ever experienced. It is an effort just to breathe, she sweeps a hand in front of her face in a fruitless attempt to clear her way and then creeps toward the edge of the boat. She keeps her arm outstretched to fend off any unseen obstacles or worse, a yellow eyed crewmen. The high wood railing comes into view mere steps before she would step off into space. Renee carefully steadies herself and looks over the side. The water is still, showing not a ripple of movement, Sea Gypsy is trapped in a windless place without current or even sunlight. Everything is white, it is unearthly quiet. Renee taps the wood railing and listens but the horrible fog absorbs even the sound of her tapping. She looks up and sees the bottom end of useless torn sails hanging in ragged wet sheets. No crewmen are in sight, all the lines hang limp. The log book says they’ve been in the fog fifty days muses Renee, so where have I been? I docked my sloop in Victoria yesterday, I think it was yesterday. Very carefully, Renee reconstructs from memory everything about her last days and hours. She remembers coming into Victoria Harbor and tying to the dock. She doesn’t remember where she had come from, or how long she had been at sea. She remembers the welcoming, familiar voice but has seen no one that sees her. Can you see me? She looks at her hand and touches her face.


The powerful urge to climb up the stairs and come out on deck now pushes her to walk forward toward the boats bow. She comes to the skylight where yellow eyes had stared at her minutes earlier. She peers down through the hazy glass. She sees the passage and door where the four corpses lay on their berths ready to heed the order, all hands on deck. The door opens and a hooded crewman walks out, it stops and looks up at her. The same piercing yellow stare holds her gaze and drills fear into her mind, it’s not until she jerks her head back that she feels herself again.


When she gets to the bow, she expects to see the crate the girl was sitting on but nothing is there. Renee pauses in the exact same spot she was standing when nearly washed overboard. The memory should be sharp but she can barely recall any details, making her wonder if it were merely a dream. Gazing into the fog, some black objects in the mist catch her eye. It looks like four round portholes. Watching intently, a boat appears in the fog. It’s a sloop, its sails hang limp, there is no sign of anyone being on deck. It is slowly drifting past Sea Gypsy, as a ghost ship drifts, forever lost at sea. Renee sees a flag on a short stern mast; she can’t make out the name. Swinging davits, their ropes and blocks hanging over the water tell only one story. Someone launched the tender and never returned.

“Ahoy there sloop, Ahoy,” Renee is surprised hearing her clear voice penetrate the mist and then die without echo, as if she was inside a closed box. She tries again louder, “Ahooooy sloop.” Her yell trailing off, but there is no answer. The sloop disappears as easily as it had appeared, or it had never been there. Renee surveys all around and sees nothing but impenetrable white. She glances over the edge again and verifies Sea Gypsy is motionless in still flat water. Fifty days in fog, the logbook entry haunts her, fifty days and counting she says to herself. She glances about for any more ghost boats or little girls and heads through the mist back to the companionway. Swinging the door open, Renee quickly takes the stairs in stride and doesn’t hesitate or even look around for yellow eyed crewmen in the saloon. She heads straight for the navigation station. Sea Gypsy’s logbook is still open, Renee closes it and slides it into a storage rack. She stands with her hand on the table as if bracing for a tsunami or rogue wave to slam the boat. At first, almost undetectable, Sea Gypsy begins to move. The highest sails billow, small wavelets wash against the hull, and her flags take shape. Renee looks up at the skylight and sees a bright spot that wasn’t there minutes earlier. For the first time since entering the fog a shadow appears on the cabin sole marking the suns angle. The sun is out and Sea Gypsy is under way again.


Renee pulls the same logbook out and stands it on its spine allowing it to fall open. The date scrawled across the top is August 1, 1865. She reads, clear weather, compass has read one hundred ninety five degrees for ten days, steady wind out of the north, we are seven days past expected landfall, stores and water are almost gone.

Renee repeats one hundred ninety five and heads back up the stairs. She pauses at the deck door and peaks out. No one is seen; she steps out and turns toward the unmanned helm. The ships wheel is steady and not moving; she looks at the binnacle and reads the compass card, one hundred ninety five degrees. Turning toward the weather vane, she sees that the wind is blowing from the north. Renee next steps up to the ships wheel, it towers higher than she is tall, with both hands she grips the spokes and pulls down. Sea Gypsy responds by changing course to two hundred degrees. When she lets go of the wheel, it rotates back and the compass again reads one ninety five. She lifts the wheel and observes Sea Gypsy turning the other way. When she lets go, it spins back to one ninety five. Standing at the helm, Renee surveys the apparently deserted ship, she can see to the horizon in all directions, if yellow eyed corpses are aboard, they are keeping out of sight, she and Sea Gypsy are alone but someone or something is in control.


A lingering worrisome thought keeps working its way back into her head, perhaps the ship is possessed by evil and everyone, dead and undead, even her, Bart and the little girl are doomed for eternity. She walks the entire length of Sea Gypsy, all the while thinking of preferable ways to explain the strange things happening. She looks for the little girl on the crate and the four corpses through the deck skylight, the ship glides effortlessly through glassy waters under blue skies.


Standing before the open logbook, she reads the last entry again and then turns to the next blank page. With quill in hand, Renee nervously dips into the ink well and pauses, thinking. Finally, in the open space, she writes. Today – Sea Gypsy is berthed at the inner harbor seawall in Victoria BC.

“ I sure hope this works Bart, for both of us.”

Upon setting the quill in its shallow tray at the top of the navigation table, Renee feels a weight lifted from her chest, her heavy thoughts seem to not matter anymore. Sea Gypsy’s saloon brightens, her polished wood glows, early sunrise rays burst through the portholes, the cabin brims with hope, she takes a deep breath, her first in a long time without drowning mist choking her. Outside, seagulls circle and cry. The sea is a small chop rhythmically slapping the hull but there is no rocking.

Renee feels a comforting nudge on her leg. When she looks down, Bart jumps into her outstretched arms. He purrs while she pets him.

“I hear voices Bart.” Renee looks at the cat, his yellow cat eyes are piercing and sparkle and then close to a smiling slit. Then she feels the same unexplained chill and shudder. Suddenly fearful, she sets Bart on the chair and moves close to the porthole. People on the Seawall and promenade fill the small round window.


Renee threw open the companionway and climbed into the morning light, Bart close at her heels.
The Victoria seawall was alive with people. Children pointed at harbor seals, tourists carried cameras. Sea Gypsy rested quietly against the dock as though she had never left.
"Can I help you, miss?" called an elderly harbor attendant. "That old ship's been closed for years."
Renee stared at him. "The captain... the crew... they're all dead."
The man frowned. "There hasn't been a soul aboard since they towed her here."
Renee turned. Her own little sloop lay fifty feet astern. A neighboring skipper waved from the dock.
"There you are, I thought you had left, you disappeared for a while"
She looked back toward Sea Gypsy.
The gangplank was gone.
Every hatch was shut.
The weathered sign reading FREE TOUR – WELCOME ABOARD had vanished as though it had never existed.
Bart rubbed against her leg.
She looked down and smiled.
Then her smile faded.
The black cat sat calmly at her feet.
His left ear split down the middle.
When she looked back at Sea Gypsy, sunlight flashed across the gilded letters on her stern. For an instant she thought she saw a little girl standing at the bow, one hand resting on a rag doll.
The child raised her hand in farewell.
Then the morning breeze rippled the water, and the bow was empty.
Renee never again doubted that some ships carry more than memories.
Some never truly finish their voyage.