Five Things Everyone Should Know Before Cruising the San Juan Islands

Fun Observations and Frivolous Knowledge  for 
All Boaters new to the San Juan's 

#1 Hugely fluctuating water levels   (tides)

The San Juans have high and low tides every day, some very high, some very low. This means you will need to be prepared to deal with going ashore at locations lacking floats.  The easiest solution is to bring a dinghy; if you don't have a dinghy I suggest you buy a cheap inflatable boat or 2 person kayak for around $75.  Once in the San Juans most people simply tow the dinghy everywhere they go, or deflate and stow it away. Those of you going in a ski boat or skiff may be thinking you can beach your boat, which will work, but only for a few minutes. On a falling tide in ten minutes your boat may be high and dry, unless you can carry it, your stuck until the tide comes back up. On a rising tide your boat will float away while you're on shore.  Since your going to anchor in six feet of water at low tide you will need one hundred feet or more of anchor rode to accommodate a ten foot plus increase at high tide. Smart boaters bring two anchors and rode and a dinghy they can carry up above high tide.

#2 Strong Swirling Currents (in places)

San Juan currents are notorious, and the root of many stories. For fast planing boats you can pretty much ignore adverse current; however slower boats live and die by planning passages to get an assist from the current. A typical sailboat may putt along at 4.5 mph, against a 2.5 mph current their real speed over ground is 2 mph.  Going with the same current their sog is 7 mph.  So a ten mile passage takes 5 hours the dumb way or 1 hour 25 minutes the smart way. There are many prediction and forecast books and charts available and online.  While you don't need a publication, I recommend that you buy something and keep it with you. I would also go online and print out a tide schedule for the time and area you expect to cruise.  CLICK BELOW for Rosario Strait at Guemes Channel
NOAA tide forecasts

In a nut shell, here's a simple rule of thumb to follow.  On a incoming or rising tide, the water in most straits and passes flows "north" while during a falling tide the water reverses and flows "south."  When the current hits an island straight on, the water will split and flow around the island usually at a slightly higher speed creating eddies at headlands and the tips of the island.
San Juan and Gulf Islands Current Atlas

#3 Weather could be fog  (pea soup is the term)

You can get lost in the dark, in the fog, or just plain lost on a sunny day.  You need to bring with you a chart, and you would be smart to protect it from getting wet or torn up. I sandwich mine between two clear acrylic sheets held together with velcro.

Some will say the chart needs to be new and of the highest resolution, which may be true for ship captains and other navigators.  What were talking about here is not getting lost, even a google print out may do the trick.  If you are going to boat in the fog you must have a compass, and  GPS, a portable handheld GPS will do fine and some new phones may do the trick too. (in thick fog you will go in circles and be totally disoriented without a compass) A gps will not replace a compass in rough water and fog, a gps is much too slow  reacting when you are getting spun from broadsides or quartering waves (broaching) you need both.   Many times in the San Juans visibility may be down to 3 or 4 miles and you think you can sneak across some open water to the next island, and you probably can, but if the fog thickens to pea soup you will be glad you have your compass and GPS.  BTW, fast boats can't always go fast when waves and swells stack up. And only very dumb skippers go fast when they can't see.

See the ferry approaching the anchored sailboat?

#4 Wind or lack of wind  (sorry sailors)

OK, here's some bad news for sailors.  The San Juans are not known for great sailing winds in July and August. Out in the straits (Haro, Rosario, Georgia, Juan De Fuca)

you may get some decent sailing, but inside the islands, don't bet on it.

Sailing in April rain with reefed main

#5 Crowd control   (no worries)

Most likely you won't have any problems with crowds except on the 4th of July and Labor Day.  The good side is that you will always find a place to anchor, even on holidays, the dinghy ride may just be a little longer for some.  Most marinas take reservations and you may as well take them up on it, but you don't need to.   I suggest you slow down a little and enjoy the freedom of not planning ahead, take one day at a time and see where you go.  Lastly, because this area is so close to Bellingham and Anacortes many boaters are day boaters.  At the end of the day they head for home, leaving some resorts and parks half empty, especially on weekend Sunday nights. Monday or Tuesday are good days to begin your outing if you want to be alone.

Fourth of July celebration in the San Juan Islands at Roche Harbor Resort

Roche Harbor 4th of July balloon contest for kids in dinghys

yes, there was room for more, lots more

Expenses

DNR buoys are free (Cypress Island) State Park buoys are $10, many park floats are 50 cents a foot,  Marinas charge between 75 cents and $2 a foot. Gasoline is a little more expensive than on land, but not much more.  Food, groceries, ice are just a little more than the mainland but very fair priced overall.

How many days to plan

Plan a minimum of four days, but up to two weeks depending on what you like to do. (I like to sit on the dock at Jones Island and read my book between naps and walks, then I make a campfire in a empty tent site and cook Kielbasa followed by a glass of wine. Then retire to my boat for a good nights sleep.  The next day, do it again)

Salt Water

Salt water drys sticky and does not suds up well with soap, you will get it all over you and your boat, count on it.  After a week you will look forward to a shower.  Your boat will be covered with salt crystals.  Most marinas have little water and don't want you washing your boat.

Squalicum Harbor in Bellingham has boat and trailer fresh water wash down hoses in the parking lot.  You should use them each time you dunk your trailer.

Provisions

For the most part you will want to provision before you leave on the boat.  Anacortes and Bellingham have all the big stores and each has a West Marine store.  All the resorts and towns have grocery stores, if you drive a fast boat, supply's may be only minutes away, putt putt's should work a store visit into your circuit.  I say circuit because most cruisers will follow a circle of some sort trying to hit many stops.  We find that ice needs renewing after four days, so a stop over at Friday Harbor, Deer Harbor, Roche Harbor, Blakelys, or Orcas landing fills the bill.  All these places  except Orcas, have gas and showers.  Showers will cost a handful of quarters so be quick or be poor. Cold showers are free. Lopez Village has free showers but no dock so you will need a dinghy.how to dinghy to Lopez village

Garbage

All the parks are pack it in and pack it out, the marinas have dumpsters.  If you are new to boat camping you will find garbage to be a pain because you are not used to storing everything in your boat.  Little things like empty water bottles suddenly take space you don't have.  You must give careful thought to what you are bringing, and the garbage it will generate.  We don't use disposable bottles, minimize pop consumption, and try to have campfires to burn burnable trash.  It is against the law to toss anything, (even a apple core) in the water.

Animals

Your dogs must be on a leash, period, everywhere.  Raccoon's are on all islands and will climb right into your boat or kayak in the day time if you let them.  Deer are all over too, but they shy away, except on Jones Island where you can hand feed them.

Otters live under most floats and docks, they will crawl all over your boat, get into things and make a mess.  Otters also will mark their territory by pooing on your stuff, dock lines are a favorite.

Bathrooms

All the parks have nice composting toilets, (each island mentioned for overnight is a park) the rangers service all parks on a regular basis.  You will be pleasantly surprised at how clean the facilities are.

Where to go:

Your destination is simply that, its the journey getting there and the experiences on the way that make a trip a wonderful vacation. Try the links below for some Island Park descriptions.

Parks and Islands to visit  plus an itinerary for first timers
Suggested itinerary for first timers

Emergency's 

Bring your cell phone and charger, bring at least a portable handheld marine radio, bring basic first aid kit, call the Coast Guard, they can be there pretty fast, or arrange for vessel assist on your credit card, bring a friend with a similar boat, then you can help each other.

Merry Christmas

Free Camping in the San Juan Islands

  Washington State DNR land (department of natural resources) is not state park land it is DNR land and offers five amazing and free camping spots in the San Juan Island area.     

Before you pack up and get on your way, let's define what free means and where the San Juan Islands are located.  For some, free may mean no charge for camping but may fail to add in the cost of a new boat or kayak and tons of gear.  For others, anything less than the price of a five star hotel and plane ticket is a steal.

    The San Juans are arguably defined as part of an archipelago including but not limited to the islands of San Juan County Washington. Therefore, including nearby islands  with other zip codes seems appropriate when planning a camping trip to the San Juan's

     All are first come and no reservations and only accessible by boat. All are pack it in and pack it out.  Facilities are maintained by local volunteers and clubs.

1. Pelican Beach on Cypress Island
2. Cypress Head  on Cypress Island
3. Lummi Campground on Lummi Island
4. Pt Doughty on Orcas Island
5. Griffin Bay on San Juan Island

    

     Grifffin Bay:       

     Five campsites, each with tables, fire rings, one pit toilet. Bring your kayaks ashore or anchor off and come ashore by dinghy. One anchor buoy is provided. Enter this latitude and longitude into google search or your gps or your boats plotter to find the campsite 48.475944 N, 123.009857 W Another method would be to  cruise along the west shore of Griffin Bay ( San Juan Island side) looking for a beach landing  and buoy halfway between Fourth of July Beach and Low Point on your NOAA chart.

Griffin Bay free camping

     Point Doughty:

     Three campsites, fire rings and a toilet are on this lonely and exposed point on the north side of Orcas Island. Use this lat. and long. to locate on a map or chart, 48°42'42.2 N, 122°56'58.3 W

     Lummi Island campground:

 is easy to find but here are the coordinates.  48.659223 N, 122.614348 W.

Lummi Island Campground is reached from a small cove on the southeast side of Lummi Island 

just south of Smugglers Cove, Inati Bay,  and  Reil Harbor. 

Your best landmark clue will be the sign on the bluff.

click here>>  Easy directions to Lummi Island Campground

     Cypress Head Campground:

This kayaker and boaters and hikers dream destination is on Cypress Island a short 5 mile paddle from Anacortes or Washington Park. Cypress head is the eastern most tip of Cypress Island jutting out into Bellingham Channel just north of Deepwater Bay. The gps coordinates are 48.568919 N, 122.670692 W

Cypress Head point creates a nice protected bay with anchor balls and a very dinghy and kayak friendly gravel beach. Trails connecting to the the rest of the island are across the narrow isthmus.

     Pelican Beach:

     This free waterfront campground on Cypress Island is very popular with kayakers, power boaters, sail boaters, everyone likes Pelican Beach.  It even has ADA compliant composting toilets. The shore is lined with about half a dozen campsites, each with tables and fire rings, directly offshore are anchor buoys. The easy trail up to the top of Eagle Bluff begins at the water edge. To find Pelican Beach simply follow the east side of Cypress Island north about one mile past the Eagle Harbor anchorage. If you run past the end of the island, turn around, you're a quarter mile too far. Here are the coordinates.  48.603400 N, 122.704134 W

   
That's it for free camping in the San Juan Island area.  The Washington DNR has lots more free camping in other areas that are highway accessible.

Click here for a complete DNR map. or copy and paste this url.   https://wadnr.maps.arcgis.com/apps/Shortlist/index.html?appid=98a7fe4ea3764440ad59f0d9b0b280e3

Follow this link below to Cypress Head WA satellite view

Cypress Island trail map

Cypress Island DNR map

To view larger image,  try right clicking and open in new window and then look for plus/minus icon.
The best way, is clicking or pasting the url below and you may then enlarge the image without it being blurry.

https://file.dnr.wa.gov/publications/amp_rec_updated_cypress_island_trail_map.pdf?yh0w7u

Cypress Island trail map

Try this link below to go to a satellite view of Eagle Harbor

Important Camping Equipment - List - for Boat Camping

By important, I mean important for camping, not that my list is important.

Camping and cruising equipment list

      Over the years, camping aficionados tend to collect everything needed.  They learn from  painful experience what not to forget - again.   Packing for them is just a matter of grabbing prepacked gear. They store it stuffed into one pack, one closet, or in my case, one group of Rubbermaid boxes. Everything is kept together so that when it is time to load up and go nothing important is forgot or left behind.  We call ours  "camping gear,"  and "camping boxes," and all of it is stored on the "camping shelves." 

         In our gear boxes you will find  rolls of aluminum foil with only six inches left, dead spray cans, water logged matches, and barely functioning openers, corkscrews and  rusty grimy pliers.  Did I leave out dim flashlights?

       Rather than list a truly massive list of mostly unneeded items, I thought I would attempt to list the important things that really impact me when forgot. Like my sleeping bag or coat, both I have forgot.

This is a boat camping list, 

not surprisingly, it doubles as a car camping list:

folding saw

ropes and tarps

baby or folding shovel

flashlights -  tested, with extra batteries

fire starting system or plan

stove or cooking system and fuel

fry pan

cooking pot

coffee system

bucket with bail (use for hauling water or bailing or storing icky stuff))

plastic bags big and little

sanitation needs

sponge or rags and towel

soap or detergent

water proof and animal proof food containers

kitchen stuff - spoons, openers,

folding chair

good knife or multi-tool

emergency tool kit

sleeping pad

sleeping bag

tent (for some)

water jugs

layered clothing for hot, cold, and rain

hat

mosquito repellant

suncreen

Some of the items don't belong in a gear box (like clothing) but should be listed.

For those of you that need more, try my
Mother of all packing lists - click here > Mother of all packing lists

Click below for view of Rosario Resort

Twenty Marine Parks - Twenty Public Docks - Five Boat launching Ramps in the San Juan Islands

Map of San Juan Island Area
With selected Parks, Docks, and 

Trailer Boat Ramps

The  boat ramps (purple) are all on the mainland
The ramps in the islands are not suitable for cruisers.

 •  Boat Ramps = Purple  •  Parks = Red  •  Docks = Green

Most docks (floats) are in parks, resorts, marinas and may be used for overnight camping. Boat launching ramps have long term parking.  Parks without docks have anchor buoys or areas suitable for anchoring.

Click below for Cornet Bay Boat ramp

Ten lessor known places to visit in the San Juan's

     Everyone knows about Rosario - Friday Harbor - Roche Harbor and Sucia Island.  Of course they are famous and not to miss, 

but some of the best San Juan area 

destinations are much less traveled 

and even less talked about.

  Out of the way places have secrets where local knowledge may turn a ho-hum cruise into a truly memorable event.  I am listing and describing some favorites, feel free to make them yours too.

   Not in any order or preference!

   #1  Saddlebag Island

       At the top of Guemes Channel northeast of Anacortes in Padilla Bay is diminutive Saddlebag Island State Park.

       Saddlebag has only 24 acres, its distinctive dog-bone shape creates two teeny bays. The north one suitable for  two anchored boats, or only one if the skipper hogs the middle on a long rode. We have always been able to anchor fifty feet from shore.  The dinghy ride is short and sweet, the gravel beach is friendly and steep.  The bay catches a little flotsam and wayward seaweed so an aroma may be mixed in with treasures you find.

      The narrow center isthmus holds a small campground and outhouse (newer).  Hiking the shoreline trail is easy and follows a handy figure eight shape affording views in all directions.  Being less than two miles from Anacortes makes Saddlebag an easy kayak destination.

      The waters on the east side of Saddlebag are shallow and rock strewn, circling the island is a white-knuckle event at lower tides. Your dinghy or kayak would be a better choice than the mother ship if you are determined to gunk-hole.

      We stop at Saddlebag for lunch and a hike, overnight if it is late, or just a quick anchor and hike.  We always see something new, and never go away unhappy.

       Saddlebag may only be rated as  five star, you will be glad you stopped by.

    Clickity click

Bicycle ride from the Lopez Island County Dock at Hunter Bay to Iceberg Point on the Strait of Juan De Fuca

       We  spent the night at the dock on James Island.  Our plan was to ride the morning current south through Lopez Pass and over to the county dock at Hunter Bay. 

 Next we would unload our bicycles and ride to Agate Beach where we would then hike to Iceberg Point.  If time permitted after returning to the boat, we would whale watch while cruising up Haro Strait on the outside of San Juan Island to spend the night at Garrison Bay or Roche Harbor.  This seemed like an ambitious but doable first full day of our loosely planned vacation.  Keep reading and find out what really happened.

         We left James late (9am) and arrived at Hunter Bay early (9:45), so far so good for the first 4 1/2 miles.

          Spotting the  small county dock from a distance was difficult because a little rocky islet blocked our view until we were right on top of it.  Half the boat hung out from the  tiny cargo loading space, but we got the bicycles off without any problem, and then moved away and anchored in ten feet on a rising tide.

The county dock and ramp at Hunter Bay is for public use, and is primarily used by nearby local residents.  Like all county docks, the signs say you may not spend the night but our experience around the islands is that the two hour rule is largely ignored.  Under the gangway is a spot for dinghy's and next to our bicycles is a spot reserved for loading and unloading only.  Placement of pilings makes much of the float unusable. Anchoring nearby is easy and the bay is well protected except from northerlies.

In the far distance you can see Orcas Island, so any north winds building waves will be coming all the way from Eastsound and can be a touch big, just like southerlies coming from Hunter Bay tend to be uncomfortable when they reach the top of East Sound -- touche'
Southend Store and restaurant is about a two mile walk with a pretty significant hill to go up and over.  Off to the left where the cove is  more protected are a number of cruisers bedded down.  All in all, this is a pretty peaceful place to hang on the hook or come ashore.

   We tied up in the already crowded dinghy spot under the gangplank.  We were watered, sun screened and raring to ride to Iceberg Point

 We pedaled a few hundred feet and ended up walking up a rather steep hill the first 3/4 mile.  It was a nice forested walk, we mingled with baby deer and glimpsed homes nestled around towering trees.  Still pushing our bikes, we crested the hill only to find another much smaller hill. Finally we started coasting at flank speed down the other side and I'm thinking, oh boy, we have to come back over this mountain later today in blazing afternoon sun.

            Once out on the islands only south end main road, we merged with and then were left in the dust of several large  bicycle excursion groups complete with chase vans and guides.  We caught up with them resting at Southend Store only to have them fly by us again on the way to Agate Beach Park.  At Agate Beach we may have accidentally photo bombed them while they posed for group photos.  We pushed on for a quarter mile and padlocked the bikes at the trail head to Iceberg Point.

           We are almost at the half way point of our days planned bike/hike, all we have to do is walk the mile or so out to the point and back, then head for the boat like a horse to its barn.  I want to call Uber.

          I will save the  details about Iceberg Point for another day except to say it is the tip of Lopez  Island facing the Strait of Juan De Fuca, and I think it was a great  worthwhile place to visit.  I also think it would be a very miserable place on shore in a storm and downright dangerous off shore in small craft. Our day so far, has been balmy and near perfect except for the sun and pushing bikes up hills.  ("Lopez" the bicycler's island, tell that to my legs)

         On the way back we were overtaken again by fit and trim excursion bicyclists, each one wishing us a good day as they sped by. The ones riding tandems seemed extra peppy, even happy.

        We stopped at the same store/restaurant (Southend) on the way back, no other bicyclists were in sight. I had been talking about getting a hamburger, coke and fries since leaving Iceberg Point.  We sat down in the restaurant portion of the store at a table with a checkered tablecloth  loaded with chips and salsa. I picked up the Mexican only menu to find pages of burritos, enchiladas and nachos. The hamburger and fries will have to wait.  The pulled pork burritos we ordered were huge and the warm salsa was out of this world good.

       I was ready for Uber or even a stranger with a rusty pickup when we saddled up for the last time an hour later, but the hill coming back was not as steep and we pedaled all but a short section, making it back to the dinghy and Kraken in short order.

  

Iceberg Point Nav. aid. In the background is Cattle Pass and San Juan Island. It is a beautiful calm day with a little lingering low haze. Across the Strait of Juan De Fuca we were treated to the snow capped Olympic mountains

The same nav-aid viewed from the water hours later as we head north hoping to spot orcas, still a flat hazy day. You don't have to ride bikes from Hunter Bay like we did, you can anchor at Agate Beach and make the easy hike out to Iceberg Point.

There is no dock at Agate Beach but you can anchor right in front of the stairs
and hike the short distance to the Iceberg Point trail head.
The bike ride from Hunter Bay to Iceberg Point is enjoyable and takes you by Southend Store for a handy lunch stop or in my case - directions.

       Our bike and hike was just about perfect, we will  do it again someday. All together we pedaled about 7 1/2 miles, and walked 1 or 2. After loading up we headed leisurely around the south end of Lopez fighting a small current until we cleared Cattle Pass where we got a little boost all the way through Mosquito Pass.  We took a slip at Roche Harbor in time to watch the "Lowering of the flags" ceremony.  When they fired the canon, my day was complete.  I slept well that night.

Click below to see Hunter Bay Satellite views

Five Tips for Bicycles and Dinghy's in the San Juan's

     If you limit yourself to places with docks to offload bikes you are also missing out on some of the best places worth exploring.  Learning to haul bikes in the dinghy opens up a world of  onshore expeditions.

     Furthermore, if you are planning to use a dock to unload bikes, and the dock is for whatever reason, ie. crowded or out of service, there go all your well thought out plans. However, we have only used the dinghy to haul bikes a few times, it turns out that most places with rideable trails and roads also have a dependable dock. I still think it is best to be prepared.

     Prior to heading out you should experiment with ways to load bikes into the dinghy.  You do not want to learn the hard way what not to do. Poking a hole in the favorite and likely the only inflatable would be the hard way.  I think type four seat cushions will protect an inflatable, but I have never tried it since my dinghy is fiberglass.

     Plan ahead, one time we sewed up huge bicycle bags from tarps to protect our bikes during an extended trip we knew may have salt water cascading over us.

Tips:

• Bring your old bikes if possible, saltwater means rust. Flush and wash asap afterwards.
• I accept that I will be wading in ankle deep water when reaching shore, so I wear sandals.
• Bike chains, pedals and spokes will get snagged, be patient and  super careful not to do damage while transporting and untangling a mess.
• I bring a tire patch kit, basic tools and pump.
• plus I use that anti leak slime stuff in all my tubes.
• Many of our bike rides end up as hikes where we leave the bikes unattended so we bring a cable and lock.  It's not that I don't trust people, I just don't want to risk walking miles and miles back to the boat.

Going ashore we took two at a time, which meant three round  trips for four people.  Upon coming back, Ryan suggested we try stacking all four bikes which meant only two trips.  Count them, it worked fine. The dinghy is a nine foot Livingston.

Anchor Rode Marking

       Why mark the anchor rode?  Easy -- sooner or later you will wonder how much line is out.

         In my opinion, marking the rode is not hard nor costly.  Suppliers sell tags, with footage numbers, some people use cable ties or bits of yarn.

        Some exuberant skippers, mark every twenty five feet and use day-glo colors.

        Years of anchoring in the San Juans has honed my system, or should I say reduced it to what works for me.

It seems to me that we don't need this conversation.  Anchoring and tying to a float are fundamental and crucial to successful cruising and boating in general.  And yet when I look back at the problems I have endured, I see that  anchoring and dealing with docks seem to be at the head of the list of self-inflicted issues.  So this is advice and observations for me.

     Below are some of my obvious observations and methods employed.

• Anchoring, like coming in to the dock or slip must be done fairly quickly or the boat floats away.  This means doing math calculations or untangling snarly rode should be completed beforehand.
• Under water, red, black,and dark colors look the same, light colors just disappear.
• Trying to spot, cutesy paint marks, little tags or bits of string flying out of the hawse pipe is problematic, especially for newbie crew.
• Guesstimating how much rode has been let out is not accurate, but is never the less the system I used for years.
• I tried using a code, such as two marks, three marks, four marks to designate small increments. It was confusing, hard to keep track of, and kinda pointless anyway since I forgot the code.
• Anchoring in dark or windy conditions, or stiff current, quickly identifies inadequate systems, poor planning, and lack of preparation. Not surprisingly the same holds true when coming in to the dock.

     What I do today:

• My experience has been that all paints I have tried last only one season in salt water. Now I  use whatever left over black or red latex paint I have. I apply it on a three to four foot section so it is impossible to miss.
• My first mark is at fifty feet, then one hundred, then one fifty, etc. Since I usually anchor in 15 - 20 feet the third mark never sees water and stays in good shape.
• If I suspect problems or crucial timing issues, I will pull all the needed rode out of the locker and cleanly flake it on deck beforehand.
• When I up anchor, if conditions permit, I flake the rode on deck for cleaning and drying and then carefully drop it in the locker later. Sometimes I put my thirty feet of wet or muddy chain in a milk crate and leave it in the sun.  Putting away wet gear tends to stink, so I avoid it when  I can, especially if I plan to anchor again that day.
• I have a pair of dedicated gloves I use for anchor handling.

How well I anchor is proportional to how well I sleep!

Click below for Blind Bay satellite view

Visit Vendovi Island Preserve

Visit and hike Vendovi Island. If you are thinking Vendovi sounds familiar but can't quite place it, I will tell you - it is the little 200+ acre dot on your chart due south from the southern tip of Lummi Island.      

 For years all of us have been going around Vendovi  Island on our way to Sucia or the inner islands.   200 acres is about the size of Jones Island if that comparison is of any help.  The map clipping below should help you zero in on Vendovi's location.

        The San Juan Preservation Trust has owned and protected Vendovi Island since 2010. 

 Visiting  days are  April 1st through Sept. 30.    Open hours are 10 am to 6 pm, Thursday through Monday. They are closed Tues. and Wed.

        Access is a small cove at the north end.  There is a 70 foot, first come no reserve dock behind the breakwater, or you may beach kayaks and dinghy's in front of the caretaker home if the dock is full. No anchoring in the cove or overnight stays at the dock are allowed.

      Bring your hiking shoes and plan to immerse yourself in unspoiled wilderness, but you should stay on the trails if you  truly respect the wilderness and the SJPT mission to preserve.  No camping, fires, bicycles, or hunting, pets are to be on leash.  Enjoy!

      Learn about the many San Juan Preservation Trust  preserves  here

  >> Map of SJPT preserves

click below to see Vendovi Island satellite view

Is disaster simply one little mistake away?

 This is a short accounting of what we watched evolve on a balmy calm peaceful Sunday afternoon. The gentleman side tied behind us cast off, he said he was going to swing by the pumpout on the other dock and then head for home. I waved from our cockpit and dove back into my magazine. Suddenly my concentration is interrupted by a revving engine. "Somethings wrong," I said to Linda, "look over there." The boater that had just left had entered the next fairway, the current was dragging him towards the two foot high aluminum footbridge that connects the walkways.  "He's in trouble," I said, "the currents too much and he can't complete the turn."  Next, to my surprise he guns the engine of his thirty footer, full throttle, attempting to make a 180 degree turn before he strikes the walkway.  His boat does indeed miss the footbridge and almost completes the turn but instead, he hits the dock next to the pumpout and with engines screaming, he drives the as yet undamaged boat  three quarters of the way onto the dock.  Not quite out of the water and at a steep angle he slams it into reverse.  The boat instantly pulls off the dock, sliding back into the water. Now mostly turned around, the boat powers backwards towards the footbridge.  The unmistakable sound of crunching fiberglass is heard a split second afterwards as the driver finally throttles back and then kills the engines.

The whole sad episode is over as fast as the engines could rev up.  By the time I and some other onlookers get over there with our boat hooks the boat is back in the water floating peacefully next to the pumpout. What can you say to someone that has just trashed their boat in a frenzied show of dumb mistakes compounded by more dumb mistakes.

Speaking for myself and probably a few other skippers that have misjudged currents and our boats handling or lack of handling.  I will say, I too have gunned the motor in a last ditch effort to clear an obstacle. I may even have bumped a few times.  Luckily I have never done any real damage or I have suppressed the memory.

Experience teaches us lessons, sometimes expensive lessons. In this instance, one lesson learned is to not try to turn around upstream of anything you don't want to hit. In lieu of that, don't hit it at full throttle.

In this situation two alternative actions come to mind. #1 the driver could have turned his boat around outside the fairway and backed down to the pumpout, although he would still run the risk of crashing if he lost power or control in the strong current. #2 and a better choice, would be to choose another location or wait for a tide change.  Sometimes it is best to not push your luck.

How to tie to an anchor buoy in the San Juan Islands Marine Parks

      This may seem like a no-brainer, but  watching crews struggle while tying up in a calm mooring field  says otherwise.   Aside from the entertainment angle,  lessons may be learned.

        The basic anchor buoy is often simply an old foam filled tire with some sort of strong attachment ring on top, but smart skippers approach unknown buoys with caution and skepticism.

        This list of dos and don'ts are suggestions, and observations, not rules, and may not apply to your boat, your gear, or your crew.

• Anchor buoys may not be in deep water, in fact you may run aground on approach.
• Don't bang into buoys, they may have sharp edges, and gel coat slashing barnacles.
• Many buoys (most in my opinion) have large amounts of plant life growing and trailing from them.  
• Some buoys have abandoned lines tied to them, ready to foul your rudders and propellers.
• You can't stand on them, they won't support your weight, even for just a second while you grab the ring.
• Buoy components corrode and break and then they float loose, it is a fact!  Seaweed might be all that is holding it together.
• Therefore backing down on a buoy, just like setting an anchor, is a good idea.

       Tips based upon my experiences: 

• Approach buoys dead slow from down wind and current, and off to one side.
• Check it out - make sure there are no long trailing lines or bits of flotsam hanging in the buoys wake.
• Match your rpm's to the current and wind so your boat is stationary next to it before moving over.
• If your boat has low freeboard, have your crew reach the ring and thread a line through it and back to a cleat.  Don't tie fast to the buoy or use a snap hook or shackle or biner, you want to be able to release it from the boat, possibly in an emergency. Use a heavy line, it will chafe at the ring.
• Is your line already tied at the other  end?
• Is your crew wearing a pfd?
• Make sure the crew cleats the line before you release your helm control, the current or wind may be more than they can hold by hand.
• If your boat has high freeboard, instruct crew to use your boat hook to snag the ring, but make sure you are holding stationary.
• Many anchor buoys are designed with a lifting ring and chain that you may pull up several feet out of the water enabling you to slip a line through.  Sometimes lifting a heavy chain is a two man job.
• If enough seaweed is growing (attached) on the chain, it may be impossible to lift the ring, even with ten crew.
• WARNING - If the skipper leaves the helm to help, allowing the boat to drift with the current, they still may not be able to lift the ring or hold against the current.
• The boat hook may get pulled from their hands or not be possible to easily unhook for a retry.   This results in losing the hook as soon as the buoy is grabbed  - another good reason for having a floating hook and wearing pfd's.
• You may also pull the boat hook apart or break off the end.
• Most boats have lower freeboard in the cockpits than up on a high bow and simply grabbing the ring from the cockpit may be all that's required.
• But, watch out when working from stern!
• The boat will be much harder to control, you may tangle with propellers and rudders.  Once hooked, the boat will likely spin in the wind and current increasing difficulty and strain on lines.
• Do not treat anchor buoys like fixed docks or floats.  They are simple to use, but can bite the unwary.  
• Lastly - don't forget that the anchor buoy has its own anchor and rode that you could tangle with, especially if you set your own hook nearby.

White with blue band is the official anchor buoy marking.

Close inspection reveals missing  shackle pin set this buoy free at Jones Island 

The mooring buoys and campsites are free at Pelican Beach, Cypress Head, and Eagle Harbor on Cypress Island

Click here to see satellite view of  Deer Harbor

How to go Ashore on Lummi Island for Bicycling or just going to the Store

For some time I have advised cruisers to use Inati Bay on Lummi Island as a storm refuge and lunch stop, or a very convenient anchorage when they don't have time to make it back to Bellingham or Sucia.

If you have the time you should consider going ashore, but not at Inati Bay where all the land is private and only has a logging road at that.

Follow these simple instructions for getting to shore on Lummi Island at the public access beach.

About three miles north of Inati Bay is the Whatcom Chief Ferry terminal. The tiny but speedy 25 car ferry makes several Hale Passage crossings every hour, so you will see it for sure.

Head for the ferry terminal and about one football field length north, anchor your boat in front of a  long stairway leading up the bank.  At the top of the stairs where the old car deck and ramp once was is a rustic wood deck, turned into a public park complete with picnic tables.  All the pilings are gone, there is nothing left, your only landmark will be the stairway with the Beach Cafe in the background.  Beach the dinghy, not forgetting the current and tides, offload the bikes and clamber up the stairs.

The local anchor buoys are quite a ways from shore suggesting thin water, you are well advised to follow their lead and anchor far off as well, unless your stay is short.

Across the street (Nugent Road) is the Beach Cafe, turn left, south on Nugent and it is 1300 feet (1/4 mi) to the Islander Grocery Store. (just past the current ferry terminal.)

Look for public stairs and Beach Cafe. Land your dinghy on slab rock or gravel at low tide.
Driftwood suggests high tide reaches to stairs.

Mt Baker across Hale Passage is a great backdrop.

That's it -- for bicyclists head left or right on Nugent Rd and circle the north end of Lummi.  It is an easy (not too hilly) 7 mile loop that takes you around Migley Point, Legoe Bay, and  West Shore Drive with sweeping vistas of  Rosario Strait.

Some first mates may find the rule of twelfths handy when anchoring in the shallows off the stairway. Below is the link to refresh your memory of how it works. Don't forget that the current changes 180 degrees and may unhook you.  I set two longish rode anchors (boat in the middle) before I take off for an extended time if I anticipate current shifts. 

Note: expect wakes from ferry to rock you mercilessly every thirty minutes.

The rule of twelfths

Anchoring tips

Click below for satellite view of Lummi Access beach

Marine Parks of the San Juan Islands and Surrounding Area

Below is the marine parks list

             followed by reviews, charts, and pictures

                         in the order listed.

        This is not all the parks, just the ones you may want to make part of your cruising. It's unlikely you can visit all in one trip and still do a decent job of sightseeing. You should plan multiple visits to the San Juans.
Many people choose Jones as their favorite for just hanging for a few days, so Jones is first.
For hiking, Sucia, or Pelican Beach on Cypress Island are the best, but all the parks have hiking trails.

      Some parks are in a convenient location when you need to spend the night and you're between destinations, Saddle Bag, Eagle Harbor, and Odlin would fit this description. 

 Most parks with docks have picnic tables on the floats, which are very handy for extending your living area, socializing, and meeting other boaters.
        For marinas/etc. where you can get fuel and provisions try this list >> Marinas - fuel - beer and ice - slips for rent

• Jones Island
• James Island
• Clark Island
• Doe Island (possibly still gone) we miss it
• Obstruction Pass
• Pelican Beach
• Eagle Harbor
• Cypress Head
• Matia
• Patos
• Sucia
• Stuart Island  (Prevost & Reid Harbor)
• Spencer Spit
• Odlin County Park
• Washington Park
• Deception Pass Park
• Saddlebag Island
• Sidney Spit Marine Park (Canada)

Click here to go to complete description and maps of above listed parks