Orca Watching in the San Juan Islands

       One of the reasons we go to the San Juan's is to see the Killer Whales, except more often than not we are in the wrong spot and only get to see snooty seals.  Probably the same ones we see every year.

       Fear not! You can get in plenty of trouble interfering with any marine mammal you choose.  So even if you miss out on the orca sighting of a lifetime, you still have a chance at getting a big fine levied on you for messing with their smaller cousins.

     With just a little online research, I came up with these rules. Keep in mind that new regulations and changes to existing laws happen all the time, and my interpretation is likely flawed.

      You know of course that you are not allowed to bring your boat closer than 200 yards (that's about the length of two football fields end to end)  of a southern resident whale. Which begs the question, how does one know if it's a resident, let alone from the south? What I knew once, but forgot, was that you are required to put your transmission in neutral if you find your self inside the 200 yd limit.

     You are not allowed to position your boat, (and this includes kayaks, rafts, dinghy's, etc.) so that you intersect with a whale coming towards you.  The rule is 400 yards  ( that's about a quarter mile )

      So if I understand  correctly, when whale watching, you can hang around as long as you're two football fields away, but if they come at you because you cleverly set it up by getting in their way,  you may get a $1,025 fine.  Plus you may unwittingly get yourself in trouble for not putting the motor in neutral when  they approach closer than 200 yards. So all you kayakers, lift your paddles I guess.

      This means you are not supposed to turn tail and run away when you get too close, but stay put in neutral until the Orca has swam outside the 200 yard radius.  This sounds silly at first, but I think the logic is that others may be nearby that you can't see, and your spinning prop is a danger to them.

Now for seals or any cute marine mammals:  It's not legal to feed, harass, handle, jeer, taunt, or make fun of them, and this includes lost or abandoned pups.  Fines may reach $11,000, jail time, and losing the boat. Ouch.

My last words of warning:   Enforcement or compliance is a subjective thing, this means you might disagree with the grounds for your citation.

    To be safe, keep back a fair distance, and don't feed the non-human animals that hang around your boat.

  Happy whale watching! 

and for gosh sakes, have some fun!

BTW.  We have seen large groups of Orcas in Rosario Strait  off of James Island, and in Haro Strait off of Lime Kiln, which tells me they circle the San Juan's.  

Pictures by Land and Sea Around Matia Island in the San Juan's

      A few years back, I  hiked the trail from Pelican Beach to the top of Eagle Bluff on Cypress Island, taking pictures every few minutes along the way.  The resulting pictorial is a pretty good synopsis for those that can't make the journey themselves. See the Eagle Bluff Pictorial hike here.  I decided to do the same thing on Matia, but with a little change up. First I hiked the trail snapping away with wild abandon, then I jumped in the dinghy and hugged the shore continuing taking pictures while I circled the island. Then I deleted most of what I had. The results are  below, you decide if it was worthwhile.

The blue marker on the far left marks Rolfe cove, and where we  begin our visit to Matia

First off, exit the dock!
The little four boat float, may be full, but there are two buoys and room for a few boats to anchor.  In a pinch you can anchor in the much larger cove at the other end of the island and do this hike/dinghy tour in reverse.

Boater park fees are  a great deal for what we get in return.

The trail starts at the top of ramp beyond the small picnic campground area.  Matia is unique in that fires are not allowed anywhere, and pets are restricted from trail system.

click where it says read more for the rest of the picture tour!

At Last Pictures of Bimini in a Bag are posted

     Not all of us can just go out and order a $5000 bimini and have it magically appear installed on our boat. So the mother of invention leads us once again down the path of necessity and creates a "Bimini in a Bag"

"Bimini in two bags"
fits under the v-berth

Organized chaos
is the secret behind many good things.

Rainy day at Roche Harbor and the new bimini was priceless

Read the full description and many more pictures in the long posting titled  "Doing it yourself page" over on the right side menu bar or just click here  >>   doing it yourself ideas

Mooring Buoys in Parks are for you to use but watch out!

Not much needed here, except a few comments.

Of course  buoys  are first come first served and you are not allowed to tie your dinghy to one as a way to reserve or save it. But what are you going to do if you find one with a dinghy tied to it? Set it free! No of course not.

Which brings up road rage or should we coin a new term? how about -water rage- or -cruiser rage- boat rage- island rage-   For the most part, boaters seem to leave their rage on shore, but if you pay much attention to the vhf you may think otherwise.

Back to buoys, mooring buoys are supposed to have a blue stripe, and most of the parks are close enough, putting a stripe on an old tire is a little tough.

Around the populated areas you may find lots of buoys, most are likely to be private, none are OK to use without permission.


A word to the wise, don't trust buoys any further than you can tow them.
Some are not maintained and break loose when you are asleep or ashore.
Some may be in shallow water, or even be on the ground at low tide (check your depth) or have lots of rope, and flotsam dangling from them.  (yes, park buoys)


I think when you hook onto a buoy where you plan to leave valuable property tied up,  you should back down as if you were setting your anchor, but that's just me.  >> read this post  Anchor Buoy breaks free at Jones Island
Some other time we can talk about cleats and rotten old floats.

Step by Step guide and Itinerary for making that Dream Boat Trip to the San Juan Islands

     This cruise itinerary is for the first timer with the boat on a trailer. The novice skipper with family for crew will find this article contains just what's needed to get going on that long talked about trip to the San Juans. While this is a step by step action plan to follow, some skippers do not need all the steps and prodding and so they should skip ahead to      Day #1.  for the daily itinerary  

For the rest of us, these steps are important, so I've numbered them.
  Before you go

1. Right now, go put two marks on the calendar. Mark the day of departure from home and one week or so later mark the day your returning. Do it now or forever hold your peace and admit your not really going boat camping in the San Juans.
2. Go to your local chandlery or go online and purchase a big color map or chart of the San Juans. I'm not telling you which one, it doesn't matter, just big and one you like to look at.
3. Got the map? Good now nail it to the wall where you can see it all the time. Do it now!  OK, the hardest part is over, you have now made a commitment to yourself and crew. Your really going.  Kick back a little, relax, do some day dreaming.  Your trip (cruise, vacation, what ever you want to call it) is already well underway. By now you should be  getting into the  excitement that comes with planning and preparations.    Note:   Don't let worry and stress build up, your really going to enjoy this outing and it will be easy, trust me  (heh, heh, heh)  Relaxing good times should be part of the  process that started when you made the X on the calendar. Remember, on this cruise there are no deadlines to meet, no times to beat, no "sorry no vacancy's" to worry about. You are on your own schedule to do as you please. What could be better besides a gourmet chef and staff.  Study the map with your crew, locate Friday Harbor, Jones Island, and Squalicum Harbor in Bellingham. Do some internet searches, read peoples reviews.
4. Start compiling a list of supply's and provisions that you think you need. Click here for help with that list >>  Cruisers Packing List this list may be a little too much, so pick and choose.
5. Start making a list of boat and trailer, must do's (like greasing the wheel bearings) I mention wheel bearings because there are a few "must do's" that will potentially ruin your plans, having a bearing go out from your neglect is avoidable, so are boat motor issues. We once went with an untested, worrisome diesel motor, and sure enough it quit, but because of suspected problems I had mounted an outboard bracket and brought my trusty 7.5 hp Honda along which not only saved the trip, but allowed us to extend it a few days.  Another time with a different boat I towed a dinghy which sole purpose was to carry a spare outboard just in case.   Another mistake not to make is inadequate packing for inclement weather, (hope for warm sunny days, but plan for cold windy rain).  Don't forget seasickness pills (Dramamine)  or other medication, one persons needs could ruin the trip. There must some other must do's that are particular to your family??? Spare tire for trailer! Hmm!
6.  #5 was a downer, lets lighten up.  You need to bring an ice chest if your boat has none, maybe two, plan on ice lasting 3-4 days and then resupply time.  For a food menu, you should plan to eat well, especially if you have bad weather when hot food hits the spot and improves spirits. Sandwiches are easy to prepare and bring lots of trail mix and snacks.  You will need lots of water, don't plan on any being available once you shove off. We bring our water in 5 gallon jugs and pour it into smaller bottles
7. You will need a propane cook stove and fuel bottles to last entire trip (propane is $7+ in the islands)
8. Garbage:  I need to mention it now after suggesting you bring all the junk food.  Your little boat will quickly become overrun with trash, bring bags, the outside islands have no garbage service. Think about all that convenience food packaging material I just told you to bring.  Some of the packaging may be left at home. Prepare things in advance and freeze meals ready to go as they thaw (2-4 days in ice chest)
9. Under boat equipment, the list is very subjective so lets just list a few must haves.  PFD's all around and all coastie required equipment (whistle, type 4, fire ext., registration, lights, etc) Plus I think you need a minimum of two anchors and extra rode, extra fuel if your tank is small.  Your boat should have a range of 75 miles. The rule is 1/3 outbound, 1/3 to get back, 1/3 for reserve. It could be 25 miles between fuel stops, so a 75 mile range gives a good cushion. Many boaters simply tie 5 gallon jugs on deck.  If your boat is open and it really rains hard, bring a tarp and ropes to lash it down. You may sleep on shore so a tent is needed. You need a hand bilge pump and a bucket (they look like a big suction tube and flex hose.
10. Bring a GPS,  You can get by without one but they are fun and really are useful. Some phones have apps available. Bring your cell phone (they work good almost everywhere) Bring the map or chart nailed on the wall or better yet go buy a real navigation chart with depths and rocks all located.  Bring a compass (hand held is OK) Bring a vhf marine radio (you can buy a portable battery one for about $100.   
11. The boats loaded your ready to go. Don't forget to tell someone where your going, and when to call for help if you don't check in as planned. That person could be a friend or relative that doesn't panic over  icky weather reports.  They should call the San Juan County Sheriff or Coast Guard if needed, or someone you have prearranged to call, 911 works too. Remember, your plans may change as the week progresses, but you can check in with a cell phone call most of the time.

Time to go 

The blue line indicates general route, red dots are overnight stops. 80 miles

Squalicum Harbor Marina - red dots = boat ramp, restaurant, showers, parking, guest docks

1.   Day #1  Your destination is Squalicum Harbor in Bellingham. (not Anacortes) Squalicum has the best boat ramp around, and free long term parking for your trailer and tow rig. Cap Sante in Anacortes has a sling and pay to park.  You can arrive and take right off but I would plan to spend the first night at the guest dock or in your parked rig. Do not cast off unless you are sure you will have enough light to make it to your anchorage or marina. Navigating in the dark is risky business and requires more of you than you bargain for, and may easily become a really stressed vacation.  Its still daylight until around 9pm, so if you arrive around  6pm there is plenty of time to get the boat launched, go shopping, eat in a restaurant, hang out.  The marina has bathrooms, showers, lots and lots of parking.  If your the worrier on this trip and need to talk to people, you can call them during regular business hours.  The launch fee and guest dock payments are made at a self serve kiosk, you could arrive at midnight, its a 24 hour deal.  No stress, just show with your boat.
2.   Day #2   In the morning, you can eat at the restaurant overlooking the marina next to the bathrooms, (the food is good and priced right) jump in the car and run to Walmart or just cast off at sun up. I like to walk around and talk to other boaters coffee cup in hand.
3. Your destination is Echo Bay at Sucia Island, its about 20 miles so you will have plenty of time even if you hang around Squalacum until early afternoon.   If you get there a little earlier you will have time to hike and explore, or maybe first go to Fossil bay where you may get a spot at the dock.  Of course tying up to an anchor buoy or the dock requires a fee whereas                                                                                   anchoring is free.

4. 

   Sucia Island with Echo Bay and Fossil Bay marked with red dots

5.   Day #3   On this day you may want to stick around Sucia for some exploring, fishing, or kayaking if it suits you. You could easily spend several days just hiking.  
6. Lets up anchor at noon, our destination is Jones Island, a distance of only 12 miles.  On the way to Jones you may want or need to stop at West Beach resort/marina on Orcas.  West beach is right on the way and wont add much time or distance to this leg.  At West Beach you can get fuel, waffle ice cream cones, ice and groceries. West Beach is just past Point Doughty on Orcas (check your chart/map and find pt Doughty) Did you bring binoculars, they will be helpful in spotting some far off places across the water and West Beach is one of those places? Once again, like Sucia, if you get to Jones early you may get a space at the dock, but you can always snag a buoy or anchor for free. Jones is pretty small but about perfect, you can beach comb, explore, kayak or hike trails, circling the island in about an hour.
7. Jones Island
   

   

   Jones Island

8. Plan to stay a day or two at Jones it could easily be your favorite stop, it is mine.
9.   Day #4   But it could be day 5 or 6 if your getting into the boat traveling thing.
10. Once again there is no need to take off early, but by now you may have noticed that currents play a big roll in passage times, and fuel used. I check my current charts and then ignore them mostly, but at least I know what to expect. Leave Jones Island in your wake and set course for Friday Harbor, no need to rush, its only 5 miles and they never turn boaters away. You can make a reservation for a slip in advance but there really is no need and its nice to not have a rigid schedule.  You can also just stop by for a few hours for free and walk around town, buy souvenirs and provisions and then move on.  I recommend on your first trip that you spend the night at Friday Harbor, visit the Whale Museum, hang around town and waterfront goings on, eat at the many places, and above all by now you will be wanting a shower, which is available right on the docks.  When you arrive near the breakwater, you can call the Harbormaster on the radio or use your cell phone, or simply tie up at the outer dock, sometimes they have a little harbormaster shed office out on the end and you can talk across the water.  It's all very simple and low key, even after hours  when the security people will take care of you. One visit we rented a slip for two nights while we bicycled around San Juan Island.
11. Friday harbor 

    

    Friday Harbor 

12.   Day #5    Check out time is after lunch sometime so again, no rush. Set course for Rosario in East Sound on Orcas Island.  The distance is about 11 miles and you may end up with a modest current either for or against your plans, you may want to arrange your transit according to favorable currents.  See current guide info right here  >> Current Atlas  <<    Around Friday Harbor is a lot of boat traffic and you will see more than one ferry for sure, don't worry, just use your common sense.  On your way to Rosario you may want to take a little side trip over to Olga for a short stop over at the public dock, (Olga is also on Orcas just south of Rosario) when you get to Rosario you will be able rent a slip, hang on a buoy or anchor out. Rosario resort has some nice grounds, restaurants, provision store, fuel, and tours of the Mansion turned museum. Because you will probably have time to kill I would seriously consider showing up later in the day or making your visit a two hour stop over and then move on to another stop for the night.
13. Rosario picture 

    

    Rosario (Mansion/Museum is in lower left, marina restaurant at top

14. An alternate stop would be past Rosario at East Sound where they have a public dock.
15. Another alternate stop just a little further, but heading more toward your car at Squalicum would be Pelican Beach on Cypress Island.  Pictorial  >> Pelican Beach pictorial  << Pelican Beach has about 4 or 5 buoys and we have always been able to squeeze in and anchor.  In a pinch you can run half a mile down to Eagle Harbor where they have 18 or so buoys. BTW Cypress is DNR land so everything is free (no buoy or camping fees) If your into hiking this is probably the best around. The beach is a favorite for kayakers from Bellingham and Anacortes, expect to enjoy good conversation around the many campfires lining the beach.
16. Pelican Beach map here  

    

    Pelican Beach on northeast end of Cypress Island

    
    
17.   Day #6   Today's destination is Squalicum Harbor and head for home. Its about 15 miles so it will take a some time.  By now you should have a pretty good idea of your boats ability to get around and deal with wind and currents. Bellingham Bay seems to go on forever, especially when the elements are lined up against you. 
18. If you have time for a quick lunch stop on the way, you should really consider dropping hook in Inati Bay on Lummi Island
19. Inati bay map 

    

    Inati Bay on southeast side of Lummi Island

20.   Plan your departure from Cypress so you arrive back at Squalicum with time to load up and head for home, or I recommend you plan one more night on the boat at the visitor/guest docks at Squalicum Harbor.  This way you will be showered, fed and refreshed in the morning and have the whole day to load up and drive towards home. In my opinion driving home in the dark after a long last day of boating is no way to wind up a relaxing vacation.

That's it

• I hope I was able to give you the incentive, motivation and pertinent information to get going on that first trip to the San Juan Islands.  My recommendations are by no means all that there is to see and do. Please do some research and modify my suggestions to suit your situation, for instance it is entirely possible to stay at resorts and eat in restaurants every night. The more budget minded may choose to anchor out everywhere.  (yes you can anchor next to the docks at Friday Harbor and then paddle over to their dinghy dock, no charge) You may also start and end at Cap Sante, La Conner, Deception Pass, or even start out far far south in Olympia like we did once.

Why go to Cypress Island? Just go somewhere else - Please

        I hesitate to write about Cypress Island, my impulse is to keep the secret.

     For some, Cypress Island is a destination. For others it's just a stop on the way to somewhere else.
For me, it's a dependable refuge that I return to again and again.

        This selection of images is from Pelican Beach on Cypress Island.  The beach is very dinghy friendly. Pelican Beach should be visited for one hour or overnight, or you are missing out on something truly special.

Find your own trail on Cypress

Please use this link for all the other parks and keep Cypress secret.

San Juan area Marine Parks list

Using Current Charts Will Get You a Free Ride in the San Juan Islands - Riding the Current North in Burrows Bay

      Who ever said there's no free ride has never been to Burrows Bay. If you are a kayaker and your kayak paddle is  getting heavy, or your in a putt-a-putt puttster boat and need another knot of speed, you should know that the current pretty much  always flows north in Burrows Bay.
        Don't believe me, check your current atlas and find a day of the year or time of day that the current is forecast to flow south.

        Burrows Island and Allan Island are strategically located to create a whirlpool counter current within the bay, so along the shore is a dependable northward current at all times.

      What this means is that when you are cruising from Deception Pass north to Anacortes, or anywhere north, in Rosario Strait, it will pay you to come in close to the eastern shore and get a little boost. Of course if you're heading south you should stay out in Rosario Strait.

        Hugging the shore in Burrows Bay  will get you about 4 miles of free current to ride. Wouldn't it be great if all the channels and passages were this helpful, this back and forth tidal thing is nice, but doesn't always  keep to my schedule.