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Nov 28, 2014

Pictures by Land and Sea Around Matia Island in the San Juan's

    What is there to see at Matia Island?   

See for yourself.  Matia Island pictorial by land and sea

      A few years back, I  hiked the trail from Pelican Beach to the top of Eagle Bluff on Cypress Island, taking pictures every few minutes along the way. 

 The resulting pictorial is a pretty good synopsis for those who can't make the journey themselves. See the Eagle Bluff Pictorial hike here. 

 I decided to do the same thing on Matia, but with a little change-up.

 First, I hiked the trail snapping away with wild abandon, then I jumped in the dinghy and hugged the shore, continuing to take pictures while I circled the island. Then I deleted most of what I had. The results are below; you decide if it was worthwhile.

Matia Island picture showing Rolfe Cove anchorage
The blue marker on the far left marks Rolfe cove, and where we  begin our visit to Matia

First off, exit the dock!
The little four-boat float may be full, but there are two buoys and room for a few boats to anchor.  In a pinch, you can anchor in the much larger cove at the other end of the island and do this hike/dinghy tour in reverse.



Hiking boating Matia Island
Boater park fees are a great deal for what we get in return.


Matia Island in the San Juans

The trail starts at the top of ramp beyond the small picnic campground area.  Matia is unique in that fires are not allowed anywhere, and pets are restricted from trail system.

click where it says read more for the rest of the picture tour!

Aug 23, 2017

Ten lessor known places to visit in the San Juan's

What are little known places in the San Juan Islands?


     Everyone knows about Rosario - Friday Harbor - Roche Harbor and Sucia Island.  Of course, they are famous and not to be missed. 

But some of the best San Juan area 
destinations are much less traveled. 
And even less talked about.

  Out of the way places have secrets where a little local knowledge may turn a ho-hum cruise into a truly memorable event.  I am listing and describing some of our favorites, feel free to make them yours too.


   Not in any order or preference!

   #1  Saddlebag Island

       At the top of Guemes Channel northeast of Anacortes in Padilla Bay is diminutive Saddlebag Island State Park.


       Saddlebag has only 24 acres, its distinctive dog-bone shape creates two teeny bays. The north one suitable for  two anchored boats, or only one if the skipper hogs the middle on a long rode. We have always been able to anchor fifty feet from shore.  The dinghy ride is short and sweet, the gravel beach is friendly and steep.  The bay catches a little flotsam and wayward seaweed so an aroma may be mixed in with treasures you find.


      The narrow center isthmus holds a small campground and outhouse (newer).  Hiking the shoreline trail is easy and follows a handy figure eight shape affording views in all directions.  Being less than two miles from Anacortes makes Saddlebag an easy kayak destination.


      The waters on the east side of Saddlebag are shallow and rock strewn, circling the island is a white-knuckle event at lower tides. Your dinghy or kayak would be a better choice than the mother ship if you are determined to gunk-hole.


      We stop at Saddlebag for lunch and a hike, overnight if it is late, or just a quick anchor and hike.  We always see something new, and never go away unhappy.


       Saddlebag may only be rated as  five star, you will be glad you stopped by.


Saddlebag Island State Park, for quiet anchoring only two miles from Cap Sante


    Clickity click

Jul 14, 2023

San Juans Itinerary for a Nine Day Trip

    What is a good nine-day itinerary for cruising the San Juan Islands?   

  A good nine-day San Juan Islands itinerary includes a mix of marine parks, scenic anchorages, and moorages such as Friday Harbor and Roche Harbor. Matia Island, Sucia Island, and Jones Island are popular stops. 

    This extended cruising plan allows time for hiking, exploring, and adjusting routes based on weather and currents rather than rushing between destinations.

Suggested Itineraries for a first-time boat trip to the

 San Juan Islands


(Updated (2014) alternate itinerary with Echo Bay and Sucia Island as 1st stop)
click here  Sucia Trip Intinerary


(For a  shorter itinerary on your first cruise and with different island stopovers (click here) 


      This article is designed to get you going on that first boating sailing trip to the San Juan Islands in Washington State.


Below is a snapshot map of your dreamed-about vacation land (or water) 




map of San Juan Island area showing passes and the Canada USA border



The map above identifies many  (not all) common names and places


Take a moment to familiarize yourself with some locations you may have read about.


You may want to follow this link and take a quick look at the detailed marine parks list and then come back to the suggested itinerary below,

 "MARINE PARK LIST AND MAPS"  


Friday Harbor is just one of many places where cruisers can access towns and shore amenities. For more options, see our list of public-use docks around the San Juan Islands.  “public-use docks around the San Juan Islands”


click here to read the rest of this post

Aug 10, 2023

Fifteen Best, Must See Destinations and Hikes Not to Miss When Cruising or Visiting the San Juan Islands

    What are some lesser-known places to visit in the San Juan Islands?   

  Some of the best, but less well-known San Juan Islands destinations include: 

  • Matia Island’s rainforest trail
  • Eagle Bluff on Cypress Island 
  • Turn Point Lighthouse on Stuart Island
  • Vendovi Island Preserve. 
This article highlights fifteen unique stops—from quiet anchorages to scenic hikes—helping boaters and visitors discover uncrowded places beyond popular harbors like Friday Harbor. 

These are special places to go and great things to do that our years of cruising in the San Juans have rewarded us with.

Friday Harbor - Turtleback Mountain - Jones Island - Sculpture Park at Roche Harbor - Youngs Hill - Turn Point Lighthouse - China Caves - Matia Island Rain Forest Trail - Patos Island Lighthouse Tour - Inati Bay & Lummi Island Campground - Vendovi Island Preserve - Eagle Bluff On Cypress - Fort Whitman On Goat Island - Rosario Beach & The Maiden of Deception Pass - Victoria & Butchart Gardens

 Some of the very best places are walks or hikes that are off the beaten path and seldom visited. I have listed them in somewhat of a great circle to help you stay oriented, but you will not be able to visit all of them in one day. I suggest that you mark them on a paper map or chart for later reference.

Our experience has shown us that trying to visit too many places in a single cruise is overly tiring and diminishes the entire trip.  Plan a relaxing itinerary and take your time

Check out these places too.  Not really must see places but still wonderful exploring and gunkholing places.  little coves and back doors

click here for the detailed list

Nov 6, 2022

Top Things to do and Places to go in the San Juan Islands

   What are the best things to do and places to visit in the San Juan Islands?  

  The Islands are best experienced by combining visits to marine parks, time in small towns, and time on the water.

   The best things to do in the San Juan Islands include visiting marine parks like Sucia and Jones Island, exploring towns such as Friday Harbor, and enjoying boating, fishing, hiking, and wildlife viewing. Popular destinations combine scenic anchorages, walking trails, and shore access, making it easy to plan a balanced trip with both relaxation and activity.

Explore hidden coves  and discover the best things to do in your boat while cruising the Salish Sea  

The difference between a truly wonderful vacation and a ho-hum boat ride is the memorable experiences and special places visited along the way.  These are some of our favorite haunts and things to do.  Maybe some will become your favorites as well.  

Matia Island one-mile loop trail

  This easy one-mile loop immerses you deeply into the shaded forest the minute you take your first steps. Towering trees, oversized ferns, and thick mosses line the trail.  Our first walk many years ago was so serene and calming that even our young kids were quiet and talked in whispers.  Matia Island pictorial

Pygmy deer on Jones Island  

The northwest is full of wildlife and deer are everywhere, or so it seems sometimes.  However, apparently, the many deer on Jones Island have developed to a much smaller size. Even the older bucks with big racks are only about waist-high.  Many of the deer are tame, and some are downright annoying.  One time a deer met me at the water's edge as I came ashore in the dinghy.   Several times deer have joined us around our campfires looking for handouts and letting the kids rub their heads and pet them.  I remember once a spike kept crowding too close to the fire, he was intent on getting at a bag of corn curls. It is against park rules to feed the animals so I don't know how they learned to expect treats from boaters.  Jones Island deer

Deception Pass State Park

While Deception Pass isn't located within San Juan County, any boating enthusiast would be remiss not to include it in their cruising itinerary. In fact, Cornet Bay, with its well-facilitated ramp, serves as a prime launch point for those embarking on their nautical adventures. But, here's a piece of advice – don't just launch and rush through; take the time to savor the breathtaking scenery.

Consider planning part of your voyage around the four daily occurrences of slack tide. At slack tide, the turbulent waters temporarily calm, providing an excellent opportunity for exploration. A mere quarter-mile beyond the pass, still within the park's boundaries, you'll discover Sharpe Cove. Here, you can moor your vessel at the floating dock, and at the head of the ramp stands the remarkable Maiden of Deception Pass.

Maiden of Deception Pass at Sharpe Cove

Jul 18, 2011

Launching at Deception Pass and Racing to the San Juan Islands and Friday Harbor

  Should you launch at Deception Pass or Washington Park for a San Juan Islands cruise?  

 

Choosing between these two Anacortes-area launches depends on your timing: Washington Park is great for a quick exit as it is the absolute closest to the San Juans, but Cornet Bay at Deception Pass is often better because it offers protected overnight dock space and a head start through the pass when the morning current is in your favor.


            Fourth of July celebrations are over, the crowds are gone, and we have until sunset to drive 275 miles, step the mast, launch the boat, and claim a spot at the dock.

  This year we are hauling our 25 foot sailboat, our trusty 9 foot dinghy and an inflatable kayak (three boats, three people).  We are sneaking through Seattle just ahead of rush hour and hope to be in the Anacortes area late in the afternoon, but I'm already talking of changing our plans as we drive along at 60 mph. Instead of going to Washington Park as planned, I suggest Deception Pass State Park.  We had been there before by boat and knew there would be a good ramp, docks, hiking, and protected Cornet Bay. The only problem would be the threat of fog and nasty currents in the pass. I knew in the morning the current was favorable and fog, well fog was another thing.  I had previously announced that even with our GPS,  we shouldn't be  taking risks in the fog and  we should change plans or wait it out. Another consideration is that at Washington Park, we will have to take off or anchor, but at Deception Pass, we can stay the night at the dock.  We went straight to Deception Pass this time.

Deception Pass - Bowman Bay - Sharpe Cove




On our way to Cornet Bay, we crossed over the double bridges spanning Deception Pass, but first, I pulled over so we could walk out onto Pass Island. 

 We get great views of Deception Pass and  Canoe Pass.  As luck would have it, a pirate ship replica full of tourists is going through just as we arrive. The ship's cannon fires and smoke fills the air as the boom echoes off the canyon walls.  The water is deceivingly calm at slack tide, in another half hour the water will be rushing out to sea at more than 6 mph and the pass will have whirlpools, and standing waves (sometimes, not always) over 5 feet high, and that's just a normal summer day. In the winter, it can be dangerous for even large vessels.  I took a picture looking straight down at narrow little Canoe Pass, tomorrow Linda and I will fail to get the dinghy through Canoe Pass, not being able to overcome the incoming current.


Gorgeous view of Deception Pass  and the bridge on the way to the San Juan Islands





Tall ship in Deception Pass firing canon










Looking down into Canoe Pass in Deception Pass State Park

This is looking straight down from the bridge into Canoe Pass at slack water, tomorrow we fail to overcome the current with our 7.5 hp honda on a 9 foot dinghy

Deception Pass Bridge from Cornet Bay showing swirling currents
Deception Pass bridge is really two bridges meeting on Pass Island, this view is looking westward towards the San Juans.

This view is from the Deception Pass bridge, Cornet Bay is in the background and off to the right past the little island.  If you come here I recommend you figure out a way to get out on this bridge, It is well worth the hike or drive, unless its foggy then don't bother.


     Cornet Bay is just half a mile inside the pass so we arrive there a 
few minutes after crossing the bridge.

  As soon as we pull into the parking lot it's obvious coming to Deception Pass is a good idea.  The docks have plenty of room for more boats, and the trailer parking lot is virtually empty.  While I start rigging "Sunshine" and prepare to step the mast, Jaiden and Linda walk down on the docks, within minutes Jaiden is back for his fishing gear.  In about two hours I'm ready to back down the launch ramp and float the boat. The trailers extension tongue and guides make launching and retrieving a simple affair.


prefect view of Cornet Bay launching ramp at Deception Pass Park

This ramp is first rate and good at all tide levels, after  launching you can tie up for the night or up to three days at the float. 



Down on the dock we discover Margarette and her black lab mixture Mackee. A lady and her dog, and their vintage 1937 40 foot motor sedan. We had met them four years earlier when we were on a trip to Port Townsend.  Over the next two days we become friends again even though power boaters and sailors don't mix well.


Cornet Bay dock at Deception Pass with vintage cruiser

This is the boat with the long wooden pole that we used to  help us recover our lost pole when we visited aboard Wind Song four years earlier. 

 We have never been alone cruising, several times throughout the San Juan Islands, we have come across old friends and other cruisers we have met in other places and on other boats.



 Jaiden is having a such a great time fishing and meeting new people that we decide to stay another day at Cornet Bay. This gives Linda and Margarette time to hike some trails and get reacquainted I get to read.


Cornet Bay fishing dock at Deception Pass Park

Fishermen at Cornet Bay in Deception Pass Park
Good Times


        On an incoming tide Linda and I take the dinghy and perhaps foolishly attempt to circle Pass Island.

  The currents and eddies aren't too bad in Canoe Pass, no standing waves have developed yet, but it is a challenge holding a straight course.  The swirlies are tossing us around so much that Linda accuses me of doing it on purpose.  At the narrowest point directly under the bridge, our 7.5 hp Honda can go no faster; we aren't making headway and are at a standstill, unable to proceed. Briefly, I consider riding a whirlpool counter current to gain another few feet, but instead just turn around.  The run back to Cornet Bay takes only minutes with the current whisking us along. A week later, when we return to go home, Jaiden and I take another shot at Canoe Pass, only this time with a little lighter load, the dinghy is planing along at better than 10 mph. 

We fly through Canoe Pass, circle Pass Island and return through Deception Pass.

 Small waves and whirlpools all around us, it's not really much of an achievement, but with Deception Pass's nasty reputation, it makes a great story, and is a ride that only a few people get to experience in a little dinghy.  During our extra day at Cornet Bay we were able to study our current and tide charts bringing me to the realization that my plan to whale watch and ride the current northward in Haro Strait would be ill advised since we would most likely not get to a place to moor for the night until 8 o'clock or later. If any problems came up, we would be in the dark. As it turned out, planning anything for mornings was a waste of time since every evening, a blanket of fog descended on us.  


        On the morning of the third day, we had to decide what to do and where to go, and if we were going through the pass, we would need to go before 1pm or the tidal current would reverse, trapping us for six more hours. 

 To make things worse, some men in a pretty large sea-worthy looking aluminum fisheries boat had just come back from the pass, saying the fog was pea soup and waves were 6 feet, forcing them to turn around. This was not good news; our only option was to run through Swinomish channel, taking us on a roundabout journey to avoid the pass.  Both previous days the fog had burned off in the early afternoon, and the weather forecast was for more of the same. Curiously, the forecast said nothing about small craft warnings or waves any higher than 1- 2 feet. I decided we would go through Deception Pass, then follow the shoreline northward. If the fog or seas were too much for us, we would duck into Bowman Bay just outside the pass and reconsider our course.


        When I  announced we were leaving, Margarette and some other boaters asked us to stay in touch by radio and give them updates on sea and fog conditions.  

We left Cornet Bay, and the outgoing current immediately pulled the boat swiftly into Deception Pass, there was no turning back now.

 Our little 10 hp outboard would not stand a chance of pushing against this current, (plus we are towing the dinghy and a 7.5 outboard) all we can do is maintain steering and go for the ride. The fog is thick, we can barely see the bridge where we stood three days earlier.  It's not  pea soup fog, in pea soup we can't see the bow of the boat and it feels hard to breathe but I know that's just me getting nervous.. Visibility is about a quarter mile so we are not worried about running into other boaters. Under the bridge are 4-6 foot standing waves and we bury our nose into the first one but the water rolls off before it gets near us in the cockpit, the next wave buries us also and the boat begins to hobby horse bringing the propeller out of the water for a few seconds at a time, I reduce throttle to slow us down and avoid over revving the motor. It never occurs to me that we could get some great pictures. The biggest waves only last for a few hundred feet and are at the narrowest point in the pass, and then the sea state returns to something you could paddle a canoe in. In short order it is quiet, and we are alone in the fog, the bridge is lost somewhere behind us,


        Deception Island is 1/2 a mile ahead and to one side somewhere, beyond is Juan De Fuca Strait,  Bowman Bay should be right beside us, if we could see anything I would turn in for a quick visit.

 We have to trust our handheld GPS to know where we are since all we see is white fog. Suddenly, the radio crackles to life, it's Margarette wanting our report. I inform her that the sea is very calm and visibility is about a quarter mile or less, the standing waves are only under the bridge, where expected. We gave Margarette two more reports on the fog as we made our way north along the coast.  I don't know what she finally did, but I think she went through Swinomish Channel since she did not have a GPS to guide her through the fog.  We, on the other hand, continued north, riding a very convenient counter current all the way to 

Skyline Marina in Burrows Bay, where we promptly ran aground in the entrance channel right next to a sign reading "shallow water on right side"  

Our retractable keel once again saves the day as we winch it up a foot and enter the moorage. Soft groundings are embarrassing, but don't damage the boat. Skyline Marina is private and unless you are buying gas there is no place to stop or tie up. We are killing time waiting for the fog to lift, and circle around ogling all the million-dollar boats before venturing back into Burrows Bay.  Finally, the fog starts to dissipate and we can  see all the way across Rosario Strait, plus a nice breeze has come up. I quickly kill the motor, hoist our main and working jib, and point our little ship at James Island.



James Island Marine Park

James Island park four boat float and campground is the first of the San Juan Islands
Four boat float at James

       We are running on a fast beam reach and cross the strait in record time, exactly the sailing I was looking for. As we sail along, I can see the fog is still hanging south of us, I try to reach Margarette on channel 16 but she doesn't respond. We decide to head for Friday Harbor and shoot past James Island into Thatcher Pass.  Friday Harbor is a bustling little city, the county seat and largest city in the San Juan's. It also boasts a very large first-class boat basin. Once through Thatcher Pass, the wind falls off so we motor-sail in order to keep making good progress.  

Around 5 o'clock I begin to worry that the harbor office may close before we get there so I use my cell phone to call the harbor master to reserve a slip. 

I'm informed, I believe incorrectly, they don't make reservations, so I ask if they have any slips available, and he says he doesn't know, but when I arrive, I can call security on channel 66a for a slip assignment. We ride some pretty good winds and benefit a lot from some favorable currents arriving at the outer breakwater about 6:45 where I radio the harbor master and receive our slip number for the night. I guess the phone was too easy. We drop sails and motor, leaving no wake, into our slip.  Most of the boaters are enjoying dinner and cocktails; it is a fabulous evening.  Jaiden does a great job with the lines and keeping the dinghy from banging into the neighbors. After all the usual small talk and storytelling with boat people (sailors) in the slip next to us, we head into town for dinner, the weather is great and we're starving. We pass by all the bars and grills, the grocery deli, Chinese food, seafood, and find ourselves at a pizza place we had discovered years earlier. Once dinner is devoured, we window shop our way back to the docks. Jaiden is having fun running ahead and poking into side streets, a habit that is not setting well with Linda. We meet the resident seal again, he/she (Popeye) seems to hang out near the floating seafood store for some reason.


Washington State ferry leaving Friday Harbor
I didn't get a picture arriving so this shot is as we are leaving Friday Harbor, I have about 20 seconds to get out of the way before the Ferry  picks up speed

Friday Harbor

        Linda fills out a registration card and places it with our moorage fee into an envelope so that Jaiden can shove it in the little slot in the closed harbor office door. That's it, we don't need to do anything except vacate our slip by 1pm tomorrow.  Tonight I sleep like a rock, It had been a long day.  I wake up early when the boat people next to us leave, then roll over and go back to sleep.  Every day starts the same way, we make coffee on the camp stove using our 12 cup drip coffee maker.  If its cold out we set it up inside, if its nice we set up in the cockpit. Later Linda and I walk down the dock to the seafood store to buy ice and watch Popeye beg.  Jaiden hauls all our garbage to the dumpster and then we cast off, we will have a small current against us all day as we make our way to Jones Island, but we have a light following wind. As soon as we clear the last wharf, Jaiden and I set the 150 drifter on a pole and wing the main out to catch all the wind we can. I experiment with different headings to get to Jones Island the fastest under sail. Our big drifter is helping us out pace several other boats going the same general direction. 

I mention to Linda that maybe I should rig a preventer so the boom doesn't pull an unannounced jibe on us. Hindsight is 2020, later Jaiden got a really hard whack that scared us all.


Sailing from Friday Harbor to Jones Island wing on wing
Wing on wing all the way to Jones, this is what it's all about.

     The bean bag chair is Jaiden's usual on deck comfort zone, unless a sail change is needed.

We have sailed all the way to Jones, and we could have sailed right to the dock or anchor but using the motor is prudent when other boats are around.  As we motor into the bay at Jones there is no room at the dock so we decide to anchor on the right side where we have anchored before. This is Jaiden's first time handling the anchor. 

The cove is very quiet and all eyes are on us. the first attempt to set the hook fails, as I back down, it easily comes loose.

 Jaiden pulls it back up as I motor back into position for another attempt, this time I have him pay out enough line for about a 7 to 1 scope before he cleats it hard, but it comes loose again. I ask him if he cleaned it completely of weeds and mud, his answer makes me suspect not. I go forward and assist sloshing the anchor up and down washing loose the snagged grass and muck, I can barely lift it, I think I know why it didn't hook the second time.  I run through the steps for anchoring and make sure he knows why and what we are doing. This time the anchor digs in. To prevent the boat having excessive swing we use the dinghy to set another anchor at about 180 degrees off the first, this will keep us off the rocks and away from the boats at the dock. Jaiden heads for shore in the dinghy, Linda and I settle in for some reading. Later, we up anchor and move the boat to the dock when a power boat leaves.  Jones Island has camp sites on shore with fire pits,  for dinner we get a big fire going and roast kielbasa and marshmallows. Several other boaters come around to share the fire and join in the conversation.  Later on, when it is almost dark, we notice the deer have gathered in the lawn area right next to us. After it is completely dark, the children have fun walking amongst the deer and using their flashlights to spot the tame animals.


Jones Island tame deer in the San Juan's at the north cove
The next day I get some good pics

Jones Island tame deer in the San Juan's

This lady was right next to me and I didn't notice, she never got up, its about two feet 


      When we leave the campfire and head down the dock to the boat it is after 11 o'clock so we fall asleep immediately, but both Linda and I are up around 6 am and find each other on a hike across the island.  Our walks started separately but ended together.  We return to the boat, start the coffee and plan the day. Today we want to make it all the way to Lummi Island where my brother lives.  Our plan is to sail the entire way, anchor off shore near his house and spend the night visiting.  Coffee, bagels and cheese for breakfast, no sign of Jaiden makes us wonder if his head whacking yesterday was more serious than thought. 

 I've been paying attention to the wind and think we can sail away from the dock without using the motor. 

 There is a very slight breeze in the cove and much more once clear of the island. I set the 150 drifter and the breeze just barely holds the sails shape even though it is made of light weight 1.5 oz cloth. Any heavier sail cloth would have hung limp.  Since the boat is facing into the wind the sail is back winded at the dock, I cast off the bow line and keep the stern line with me on the dock, as the boat slowly pivots 180 degrees the sail fills correctly and begins to pull the boat away in the right direction. I step aboard and tidy up lines and fenders while Linda steers us deftly between anchored boats.  In no time at all we catch fair wind and leave Jones behind. It's a good feeling when your able sail away and not use the motor, especially with an audience, and much more satisfying than running aground.  


      We  head north around Orcas Island, Jaiden sleeps until close to noon, and its about this time that we begin to loose our battle with the current.  We knew that the current would turn on us but hoped the wind would stick around to make up the difference, it did not.

 We are halfway between Orcas and Sucia and have about 15 miles to go, the current is dragging us backwards at about 1 mph.  We have eaten our snacks, our trail mix, made sandwiches, drank the water, set the Bimini top to create a little shade from the blaring sun, and stared at the same point of land for the last two hours, discussing whether it was getting closer or farther from us. We drop the sails and start the motor, I quickly check our speed with the GPS, measure our distance and determine we will be about 8 more hours, which is unacceptable, so it's time to change course around Matia Island to intercept a counter current that will swing us right into Hale passage on the other side of Lummi Island. A longer distance but with smart navigation we will get there faster, I hope.  After about 30 minutes I start to question my judgment knowing that the current charts have not always been correct. I then change course again heading for shallow water near shore on Orcas Island, I know that the current is less in shallow water, plus I expect the wind to come back once we clear the shadow of Orcas and enter Rosario Strait. 

We are running along in about 30 to 40 feet of water when suddenly the depth sounder swings right up to 12 feet, I instantly slow down and turn abruptly away from shore. 

After conferring with my chart I know right where we are because the chart clearly marks an underwater ledge coming out from shore. No harm just a little scare and a lesson learned for free this time. After about an hour, conditions improve, as we come around Orcas and feel the influence of Rosario Strait the wind is on our beam. The seas are 3 to 4 feet with an off-angle swell sweeping across.  This is very uncomfortable for Linda, so she goes below. Jaiden and I are really having fun, we get the sails up and sheet her in tight, this greatly stabilizes the action as we leap from wave to wave but does nothing for the underlying swell. We are still unable to pick out Lummi Island from the background scenery. we can see the tall summit of course, but the tip of the island is blurred with the mainland.


     We are making very good headway but the current is also dragging us south. Each time I tell Jaiden to hold a course steering towards a prominent landmark or feature, I need to correct myself in a few minutes due to the sideways drift. (set)  It's imperative not to steer for the tip of the island, but to steer well above to correct for the drift, otherwise we will find ourselves way south and have to steer directly into the current to get around the island. We are sailing very fast and the boat is so responsive I feel like saying to heck with the destination, and just sail. It is obvious Jaiden is enjoying manning the tiller even though it is hard work.  We have sailed about 6 to 8 miles and cleared the tip of Lummi Island, we now have to turn south into the wind, but with the current.  I set us on a close reach crossing Hale passage, with the current boosting us we should be able make two long tacks and round up in the little bay where we plan to anchor.  I call my brother Bill on the phone to let him know we are getting near, he wants us to call him when we anchor so he can pick us up in the car. 

 I need to adjust our course so as to not antagonize the skipper of the Whatcom Chief, the small ferry that serves Lummi Island residents. 

 By the time we close the gap the ferry has crossed in front of us several more times. When we started the passage this morning, I knew we had all day to get here, partway here I was sure we would be very late or not make it at all, now it appeared we had time to kill and still have an early dinner. Jaiden handles the anchor again; he remembers everything I told him, and we set the anchor very well the first try. We set the grapple anchor off at 90 degrees. I'm not worried about our swing room, but the changing current direction every 6 hours or so. If an anchor is set from one direction, it may pull out and not reset itself when pulled from the opposite direction.  Bill doesn't wait for us to call; we see him up on the road waiting to see where we come ashore.  The three of us grab a few things and climb into the dinghy, The first place we come ashore, the beach is not very steep so to avoid getting our feet wet, I push off and come ashore 100 feet further up, where we have a nice steep gravel beach.  The three of us muscle the dinghy up onto the driftwood and tie it to a tree. Bill says not to worry that someone may steal our dinghy and outboard, after all, we are already trespassing on private property.


At Uncle Bills house we find more deer including new fawns



fawn's and mom deer on Lummi Island

We enjoyed our visit with Bill, but it was the turn around point for our trip.  We did not have anything left to accomplish except find our way home.  The next morning we talked until late and then Bill gave us a ride back to the beach where we stashed the dinghy.  The boat anchors had done their job.  We weighed anchor within 30 minutes and slowly motored southward along Lummi Islands east shore.

The wind was blowing right in our face about 15 to 20 mph and throwing up spray and chop, we motored as close to shore as was safe (sometimes within 100 feet) to avoid the worst of the waves and wind all the way to Inati Bay where we ducked in and anchored for lunch.

 Jaiden took the dinghy to shore and explored the area. The beach  is private property leased to the Bellingham Yacht Club.  My brother is good friends with the owners of the shoreline and surrounding forest but we still we felt like trespassers due largely to the keep out signs on the beach. While sheltered in the bay we discussed our next night's destination and what course to be heading. Cyprus Island was too close, we wanted to stay out of the southern end of Rosario due to the persistent fog, Linda had earlier stated she would like to go through Swinomish channel as did I.  I also thought a short stopover at La Conner might yield some ice cream for Jaiden. While anchored, several other boats pulled into the small cove, I'm sure everyone was seeking shelter from the seas and wind.  While anchored, I hanked on our 70% heavy jib and reefed the main to our second reef point. I raised the sails before we cleared the cove's protection. The wind was still right on our nose so I set a close reaching course that would take us across Bellingham Bay, and then on the return tack, we would clear Vendovi Island and at that time would decide where to spend the night. By the time we had reached the mainland and needed to tack, I had already shook out the reef and switched to our working jib, and then the wind just went away. 

We have been gone from last night's anchorage for about four hours, and I could still see the ferry at Lummi Island; we really needed to give up sailing and motor somewhere or risk being out after dark. 

 We have no problem navigating in the dark, it is eminently easier than fog, but we like to arrive in the daylight and take a walk or short hike. We settle on Saddle Bag Island and start the motor.  Saddle Bag is a small 20+ acre Island marine park with a small shallow bay, When we arrive, one other sailboat is anchored at the entrance to the bay, by morning, there are two more, we circle the cove slowly, checking depths and anchor to one side in about 10 feet of water. To check our swing, Jaiden drops the grapple from the dinghy before he paddles to shore. We can see the people from the other boat on shore by a fire and Jaiden has joined them.  In a few minutes, he paddles back and reports they are nice people, we all jump back in and head for shore.  After securing the dinghy, we determine again that they are nice people and then excuse ourselves for a walk around the island.  Saddlebag easily is one of our favorite stops, but so is Matia, Jones, James too.


Saddlebag Island State Park is near anacortes and Cap Sante

Anchoring at Saddlebag Island state Park

After circling Saddlebag Island we find the sun has set on all the boats but (Sunshine) ours. 

We talk for awhile around the fire then head back to the boat for dinner.  Back on the boat we discover the water pump switch had been left on, and all our water is gone down the drain, plus the pump has burned up from running dry.  We have a half gallon or so in the cooler plus a couple smaller bottles laying about. We are all really hungry and very cold. We light the camp stove and start cooking two boxes of noodle helper (servings for eight I think) we also light the propane radiant heater, our one big candle, and our gimble mounted kerosene lantern.  Pretty soon we are warm enough to remove our coats. Dinner is consumed rapidly and we are all looking for more servings. It is about now that I discover the kerosene lantern flame is getting smaller and I cannot adjust it, I trim the wick to no avail. Something is wrong, 

I suspect we are burning up all the oxygen but no one is lightheaded or feeling stranger than usual. Linda says we need a Canary.

 To test my theory we set the lantern outside in the cockpit and the flame immediately burns brighter, brought back inside it drops back to half again. We test it several more times and then close the canvas door to keep the heat inside..  I'm more than a little concerned over what we have discovered,  regardless we blow out all the flames and shut off the propane, it's time for bed. I sleep like a log again, I wonder why. In the morning Linda and I get the propane heater going first thing, it's a small radiant heater that attaches to the small bottles. The heater is perfect for a small boat, but we worry about knocking it over and are considering some sort of mounting system. We make our coffee using some of our remaining jug water and raise anchor to quietly motor away. The water is flat calm with hardly a ripple, I leave the anchor suspended in the water hoping the boats motion would clean the mud and weeds off. Breakfast under way is coffee and some really hard bagels with cream cheese.  We seem to be benefiting from the incoming tide and I predict that as we get closer to Swinomish channel we will pick up more speed, but I'm wrong, the closer we get to the channel the  slower  we are moving.  I've never seen any publication with  channel predictions or even current flow directions, it seems to not make sense how the water can move out while the tide is coming in. Just as I think about increasing our engine speed I remember the anchor is still hanging from the bow, so I go forward to stow it properly.  Sure enough it is clean and weed free.  The tide is coming in but it is still very low water in Padilla Bay. The channel is well marked and a little narrow, we are meeting a lot of outbound boats, some are leaving  large wakes to bounce us around. Jaiden has appeared in the cockpit and wants to know where we are.  Linda is steering and we are moving only 2 mph, 

Jaiden and I both tell Linda that it looks like we are pointed toward shore, but she continues on course, saying it looks right to her.

  I gently suggest that from her position, it may look correct, but from where Jaiden and I are sitting, it looks like we are headed for land.


 Linda then says, something to the effect of "you can drive" and goes into the cabin.  Within seconds the boat runs into the soft mud bottom and comes to a halt with the motor still pushing. This is not the first or last time the boat has run aground. But it is the first time we have run aground right in front of an open railway bridge. By steering hard over, I am able to use the motor's thrust to slowly turn our stuck keel 180 degrees and then slide back out into the channel and resume our journey. 

Once past the railroad and twin highway bridges, we are officially in Swinomish Channel, which is a man-made channel connecting Padilla Bay with Skagit Bay. 

 If you're unfamiliar with the area the names mean little, but you should know that by connecting these two bays in 1937 the corp of army engineers created a nifty 11 mile detour allowing boaters to go around Deception Pass, missing the nasty currents, big waves and persistent fog. Using the channel also allows boaters to avoid all altogether the Strait of Juan De Fuca which can have its own behavior issues.  To overcome the opposing current, we must run the motor at close to full throttle and only make 2.5 mph over ground, so we of course, run out of gas in short order.  I had earlier raised the main sail to help us along and now without the motor, the wind was holding our position, so at least we weren't going backwards while I transferred gas.  This is the second time this trip I have filled the motors little 3 gallon tank  from my six gallon container on deck, this is pretty much all we have, plus what's in the dinghy tank. Several more wakes rock us as I try not to spill any gas in the cockpit or anywhere else. As we approach La Conner we go right by the gas dock, and I wonder if that's a mistake. The city maintains guest docks for short-term and overnight visitors so we slide over and take about 40 feet for ourselves and the dinghy. (We have been towing the dinghy everywhere). Jaiden bounds off the boat looking for the restroom, and I mistakenly tell him the wrong way to go (oops, sorry)  A local boat owner working on his vessel says hello, so I mention the current and how we have been all day coming from Saddle Bag.  

He says the current flows north for 23 1/2 hours and flows south for a 1/2 hour, and no one knows when the 1/2 hour is. I said thanks, that clears it up.

 Linda says, that explains why all the boat traffic is going the other way.  Main street with all the quaint shops and eatery's is only a hundred feet from the dock so we join the crowds on the sidewalk to stroll up one side and down the other hoping to be enticed by some irresistible aroma or ambiance.  We settle for ice cream for Jaiden and a block of ice for the boat, and then make sandwiches on board. When we cast off later I think it looks like the current has slowed some, sure enough the GPS confirms we are making about 4 mph, still not good for fuel economy, but better. I could  turn around and buy gas but push on hoping for favorable winds.

 Somewhere in the channel the navigation aids reverse colors, because red is on the right and green on the left when entering from either end.

 This is not confusing to me at all because we just steer between the red and greens regardless. When we enter Skagit bay we are faced with a straight well marked channel leading us safely across a mile of mud flats, and I remember a skipper a while back complaining how he had run aground here, and he was in the marked area.  Linda is steering while I manage the sails and I can see the channel markers are not in a straight line like the official chart shows them.  Of course all charts have a disclaimer warning not to use them as your sole source of information. (thanks) Linda is keeping a sharp eye on on the depth which is only 12 feet. We are now less than five miles to Cornet Bay and Deception Pass, we have a light wind and the motor is only needed sparingly. As we make our way north four navy patrol boats go by us at high speed, twenty minutes later they return in the same formation only three this time. Judging their speed they must have gone through the pass into the strait of Juan De Fuca a short distance turned and came right back minus their leader. An hour later we approach the dock we had been tied to a week earlier and tie up in the same spot. Margarette and Mackee are gone of course, most of the big anchored boats are still there. Jaiden grabs his pole and mixes in with the fisherman on the dock.  Linda and I go about organizing the boat, we will eat and sleep on the boat tonight, and then in the morning, load her onto the trailer, unstep the mast and head for home. As I motor the dinghy towards the ramp for loading on the roof of the car I can't resist turning away and racing at full throttle, the dinghy planes very well with only one person, skipping lightly over the water. 

In a minute I find myself without my life jacket heading for Deception Pass determined to shoot through Canoe Pass and  circle Pass Island.

 I think for a second if this is a wise move, then slowly  turn back to pick up Jaiden and both our jackets for one last ride through the pass.  

Deception Pass bridge from the hwy

Deception Pass bridge from Cornet Bay
Canoe Pass on the right, is all but invisible 




Click below to see a satellite view of Inati Bay on Lummi Island

Jan 2, 2024

Cruise the San Juan Islands – Sample Itinerary, Trip Plan, Vacation Guide

  What is a good 5-day itinerary for the San Juan Islands?  


   This post outlines a  flexible route based on real San Juan Island cruising experience. Starting from common launch points like Cornet Bay or Squalicum Harbor, the itinerary emphasizes daily stops.

  • Exploring marine parks 
  • Balancing travel time 
  • Hiking and sightseeing
  • Anchoring opportunities. 

How to Plan a Flexible Five-Day San Juan Islands Itinerary

 This plan is a proven San Juan Islands 5 day itinerary that helps boaters balance travel distance, sightseeing, and overnight stops. A successful five-day trip is less about following a fixed route and more about adjusting to conditions and interests. This approach highlights starting points, typical boat speeds, and suggested stops while encouraging boaters to modify plans based on weather, tides, and personal preferences for hiking, exploring, or relaxing.

Talk to ten San Juan Islands cruisers, and you will get ten different answers to the question.  Each will be correct, or mostly correct. To support their answers, they will offer first-hand, exciting personal experiences.  That is why you must gather the best information, inject your wants and quirks, and then chart your own course to the San Juan's.  
     Our experiences and local knowledge have been earned the old-fashioned way – one cruise at a time. Sailing, hiking, biking and gunkholing, all while immersed in nature have been our reward. 
     This website is a compilation of our travels in five sailboats and two trawlers spanning three decades.
     Along the way we published a cruising guide, “San Juan Islands Cruise Guide,” followed later with a Land and Sea Guidebook, “San Juan Islands Travel Guide.”  My goal for this website and these books is to help boaters, travelers, sailors, and families enjoy the good times we have enjoyed for many years.
     What is the best five-day itinerary?  That's like asking what's the best color.  But there are certain things that our experience and local knowledge will help with.  Sometimes, one just needs a little push in the right direction to get on the right tack, so to speak.  It is impossible in an essay or article to cover everything important to everybody or all the possible places to go.  However, this website does cover every state park, every county park, every public dock, and much much more.  
     You will find many links to pictures and specific posts, all composed for San Juan Island boaters.  Be sure, while reading to click the links and follow your interests. Be sure to use the search box at the top of this page on the left side.

You're invited!

     To help you muddle through this planning dilemma and provide some interesting reading, please come along with us on our summer cruise in the San Juan Islands.  Of course, you will be taking your own boat since ours is full.  

     Today, we use our laptop as a chart plotter. The program was free online Free chart plotter software but I had to buy a USB antenna for $19.95.  You can get by with a small handheld GPS or even your cell phone but I enjoy the big screen.   I don't want you to get lost if we get separated, or your battery is dead, so you should pick up a paper chart and a compass.   chart #18421 I carry a colorful roadmap with us as well.

    Let's get on the same page and assume this is your first boat trip to the San Juan's, and you are in a trailerable sailboat with a 5-6 mph speed.  There are five or six starting points we have used but only three are preferred.  They are Cornet Bay in Deception Pass, Cap Sante in Anacortes or Squalicum Harbor in Bellingham.  If you have a fast powerboat or are coming up from the Seattle direction you will want to make time and distance adjustments.  We will plan  to sleep on board but use bathrooms on shore. Okay, let's go. ----- We have narrowed it down to about twenty parks to choose from for the first night, and that's not counting the marinas at Friday Harbor, Roche Harbor, or Rosario.   Not to worry, I have a plan >>>  all the parks and then some

      Sometimes when we plan a vacation trip to the San Juan's,  we try to make a great circle route because it saves time and resources. But this time we're going to decide where we go, as we go. We will see how that non-plan works out.  Certain people on the boat have expressed a desire for hot showers, I guess we will see how that works out too. Since we may travel all the way across the San Juan's and back, your boat will need a minimum 75-mile range. Fuel is readily available everywhere but smart skippers figure one-third of the miles out, one-third back, and a third as a cushion.  If your fuel tank is a little small you can tie a five-gallon can on deck.  Knowing you have reserve fuel will ease anxious thoughts and ensure you have a great visit.  Shall we also assume that you have a seaworthy vessel with all safety gear?  If not, correct it before we head out, or stay home.  Life jackets for all


Plan as we go itinerary:

Four lane, all tide Cornet Bay boat launch for easy access to the San Juan Island's
Cornet Bay Launch Ramps

        Let's begin at Cornet Bay in Deception Pass Park.

  However, after reading this post, I suggest that you search this website and check out the other launch locations. Some may fit your plans better. launch points Also, search the other parks and marinas and things to do.  It is easy to overlook a great place or mini adventure that will make your cruise the best of all.  I chose to launch at Cornet Bay this time because I really enjoy the pass scenery.  The dock and the long-term parking are ideal.  Plus being able to take off or return from both directions 24/7 opens up even more possibilities when not having a firm plan. If I was heading for the Sucia, Patos or Matia Island area first off, I may have chosen Squalicum Harbor in Bellingham but where we end the cruise may dictate where to begin.

Read the rest?