San Juan Islands map and mileage chart

Popular Parks, Cities and Destinations With Distance Mileage Chart

Use the chart below the map to find the approximate distance between points.  Sea miles were calculated by plotting the most direct route.  Tides and currents may dictate following a different route.

Click below for a satellite view of  Cattle Pass

Cruise the San Juan Islands – Sample Itinerary, Trip Plan, Vacation Guide

"Where are the best places to go and best things to do in the San Juan's?"       

Talk to ten San Juan Islands cruisers and you will get ten different answers to the question,  Each will be correct, or mostly correct. To support their answers, they will offer first-hand exciting personal experiences.  That is why you must gather  the best information, inject your wants and quirks, and then chart your own course to the San Juan's.  
     Our experiences and local knowledge have been earned the old-fashioned way – one cruise at a time. Sailing, hiking, biking and gunkholing, all while immersed in nature have been our reward. 
     This website is a compilation of our travels in five sailboats and two trawlers spanning three decades.
     Along the way we published a cruising guide, “San Juan Islands Cruise Guide,” followed later with a Land and Sea Guidebook, “San Juan Islands Travel Guide.”  My goal for this website and these books is to help boaters, travelers, sailors, and families enjoy the good times we have enjoyed for many years.
     What is the best five-day itinerary?  That's like asking what's the best color.  But there are certain things that our experience and local knowledge will help with.  Sometimes, one just needs a little push in the right direction to get on the right tack, so to speak.  It is impossible in an essay or article to cover everything important to everybody or all the possible places to go.  However, this website does cover every state park, every county park, every public dock, and much much more.  
     You will find many links to pictures and specific posts, all composed for San Juan Island boaters.  Be sure, while reading to click the links and follow your interests. Be sure to use the search box at the top of this page on the left side.

You're invited!

     To help you muddle through this dilemma and provide some interesting reading, please come along with us on our summer cruise in the San Juan Islands.  Of course, you will be taking your own boat since ours is full.  

     Today, we use our laptop as a chart plotter. The program was free online Free chart plotter software but I had to buy a USB antenna for $19.95.  You can get by with a small handheld GPS or even your cell phone but I enjoy the big screen.   I don't want you to get lost if we get separated, or your battery is dead, so you should pick up a paper chart and a compass.   chart #18421 I carry a colorful roadmap with us as well.

    Let's get on the same page and assume this is your first boat trip to the San Juan's, and you are in a trailerable sailboat with a 5-6 mph speed.  There are five or six starting points we have used but only three are preferred.  They are Cornet Bay in Deception Pass, Cap Sante in Anacortes or Squalicum Harbor in Bellingham.  If you have a fast powerboat or are coming up from the Seattle direction you will want to make time and distance adjustments.  We will plan  to sleep on board but use bathrooms on shore. Okay, let's go. ----- We have narrowed it down to about twenty parks to choose from for the first night, and that's not counting the marinas at Friday Harbor, Roche Harbor, or Rosario.   Not to worry, I have a plan >>>  all the parks and then some

      Sometimes when we plan a vacation trip to the San Juan's,  we try to make a great circle route because it saves time and resources. But this time we're going to decide where we go, as we go. We will see how that non-plan works out.  Certain people on the boat have expressed a desire for hot showers, I guess we will see how that works out too. Since we may travel all the way across the San Juan's and back, your boat will need a minimum 75-mile range. Fuel is readily available everywhere but smart skippers figure one-third of the miles out, one-third back, and a third as a cushion.  If your fuel tank is a little small you can tie a five-gallon can on deck.  Knowing you have reserve fuel will ease anxious thoughts and ensure you have a great visit.  Shall we also assume that you have a seaworthy vessel with all safety gear?  If not, correct it before we head out, or stay home.  Life jackets for all

Plan as we go itinerary:

Cornet Bay Launch Ramps

        Let's begin at Cornet Bay in Deception Pass Park.

  However, after reading this post, I suggest that you search this website and check out the other launch locations. Some may fit your plans better. launch points Also, search the other parks and marinas and things to do.  It is easy to overlook a great place or mini adventure that will make your cruise the best of all.  I chose to launch at Cornet Bay this time because I really enjoy the pass scenery.  The dock and the long-term parking are ideal.  Plus being able to take off or return from both directions 24/7 opens up even more possibilities when not having a firm plan. If I was heading for the Sucia, Patos or Matia Island area first off, I may have chosen Squalicum Harbor in Bellingham but where we end the cruise may dictate where to begin.

Read the rest?

Fifteen Best, Must See Destinations and Hikes Not to Miss When Cruising or Visiting the San Juan Islands

These are special places to go and great things to do that our years of cruising in the San Juans have rewarded us with.

Friday Harbor - Turtleback Mountain - Jones Island - Sculpture Park at Roche Harbor - Youngs Hill - Turn Point Lighthouse - China Caves - Matia Island Rain Forest Trail - Patos Island Lighthouse Tour - Inati Bay & Lummi Island Campground - Vendovi Island Preserve - Eagle Bluff On Cypress - Fort Whitman On Goat Island - Rosario Beach & The Maiden of Deception Pass - Victoria & Butchart Gardens

 Some of the very best places are walks or hikes that are off the beaten path and seldom visited. I have listed them in somewhat of a great circle to help you stay oriented, but you will not be able to visit all of them in one day. I suggest that you mark them on a paper map or chart for later reference.

Check out these places too.  Not really must see places but still wonderful exploring and gunkholing places.  little coves and back doors

click here for the detailed list

San Juans Itinerary for a Nine Day Trip

Suggested Itineraries for a first time boat trip to the

 San Juan Islands

(Updated (2014) alternate itinerary with Echo Bay and Sucia Island as 1st stop)

click here  Sucia Trip Intinerary

(For a  shorter itinerary on your first cruise and with different island stopovers (click here) 

      This article is designed to get you going on that first boating sailing trip to the San Juan Islands in Washington State.

Below is a snapshot map of your dreamed-about vacation land (or water) 

The map above identifies many  (not all) common names and places

Take a moment to familiarize yourself with some locations you may have read about.

You may want to follow this link and take a quick look at the detailed marine parks list and then come back to the suggested itinerary below,

 "MARINE PARK LIST AND MAPS" click here 

click here to read the rest of this post

Quick distance chart from where you are to where you want to be in the San Juan Islands

   Every skipper needs to know how far it is from A to B.

      Here's a handy chart with the work already done, the distances are via the shortest route.

                                  First published 7/30/2016   

Note: The shortest route may not be the fastest or best route when currents and other issues are taken into account!
These numbers are approximate, and were derived by simply clicking "measure route" on a chart. Since making this chart I have come across several u-tube videos with distances that don't agree with  mine. Be sure to not rely on others and do your own calculations. 

When you are rushing from place to place, be very careful around unfamiliar surroundings so that you don't get a surprise.  The best advice is to slow down and keep watch.  Follow this link to learn of some shockers.  > Eight nasty surprises

Top Things to do and Places to go in the San Juan Islands

Explore hidden coves  and discover the best things to do in your boat while cruising the Salish Sea  

The difference between a truly wonderful vacation and a ho-hum boat ride is the memorable experiences and special places visited along the way.  These are some of our favorite haunts and things to do.  Maybe some will become your favorites as well.  

Matia Island one-mile loop trail

  This easy one-mile loop immerses you deeply into the shaded forest the minute you take your first steps. Towering trees, oversized ferns, and thick mosses line the trail.  Our first walk many years ago was so serene and calming that even our young kids were quiet and talked in whispers.  Matia Island pictorial

Pygmy deer on Jones Island  

The northwest is full of wildlife and deer are everywhere, or so it seems sometimes.  However, apparently, the many deer on Jones Island have developed to a much smaller size. Even the older bucks with big racks are only about waist-high.  Many of the deer are tame, and some are downright annoying.  One time a deer met me at the water's edge as I came ashore in the dinghy.   Several times deer have joined us around our campfires looking for handouts and letting the kids rub their heads and pet them.  I remember once a spike kept crowding too close to the fire, he was intent on getting at a bag of corn curls. It is against park rules to feed the animals so I don't know how they learned to expect treats from boaters.  Jones Island deer

Deception Pass State Park

While Deception Pass isn't located within San Juan County, any boating enthusiast would be remiss not to include it in their cruising itinerary. In fact, Cornet Bay, with its well-facilitated ramp, serves as a prime launch point for those embarking on their nautical adventures. But, here's a piece of advice – don't just launch and rush through; take the time to savor the breathtaking scenery.

Consider planning part of your voyage around the four daily occurrences of slack tide. At slack tide, the turbulent waters temporarily calm, providing an excellent opportunity for exploration. A mere quarter-mile beyond the pass, still within the park's boundaries, you'll discover Sharpe Cove. Here, you can moor your vessel at the floating dock, and at the head of the ramp stands the remarkable Maiden of Deception Pass.

Maiden of Deception Pass at Sharpe Cove

Leaving for La Conner this morning!

Windrose, aka "Rosey" has made it to the San Juans

In good company anchored at Jones Island

I wrote this post ten years ago.  It is about a tsunami-damaged boat we rescued following the Fukushima Japan earthquake of 2011.  Windrose was pummeled but not quite sunk as her slip was destroyed around her in 

Crescent City, CA.

As I write this post, Rosey's journey back is finally almost complete.  

Today will be another white knuckle trip up the interstate for six hours, and then Monday we will be slinging her into Swinomish Channel.  After a day or so rigging we will be heading to Hood Canal to visit Camp Parsons Boy Scout Camp to pick up our son. Next week we expect to make it to San Juan Island with three bicycles on board so we can do a little bike riding. Right now I am preparing to download some tide forecasts and somehow appease the fog gods to lay off the Strait of Juan De Fuca. I'm still short a trusted GPS, the radar is not tested, and my brand new Humminbird was shipped off for repairs and won't be back in time. So we will be dependent on our eyes, good looks, and the antique spinning sounder that makes a whirring sound. I think we will be just fine, but don't count on us to make any appointments on time, which is what I would say if we were on a modern newer boat with all systems functioning.

7/22/12


Read about Rosey here  > Rosey's first trip after arriving at her new home in the San Juans

Read about Rosey's tsunami nightmare and repair here  >  Bombay Pilothouse Project

San Juan Islands Cruise Starting at Cornet Bay in Deception Pass State Park

This post first appeared in this web site in  2011. Parking and launching fees at Cornet Bay have since gone up a little.

       Camping, traveling, vacation rentals, condo's, and resorts on a budget, 

Is it even possible? 

Yes it is. Inexpensive (cheap) vacations are possible if you, "go by boat" or yacht as some say. The trick is to already own the yacht and then camp on it at all the great places.  Think of it like going to RV parks only without the garish over the top  land schooners parked in the best spots.

            If you are a newbie to the San Juan Islands boating group, you may ask, Why is Deception Pass State Park Your Ideal Starting Point?

The Simple answer is that this Washington park has the best all-weather, all-tide launching ramp and long-term parking lot. Plus,  Deception Pass is one of the places to see that you should not miss, and the Cornet Bay dock is a wonderful place to overnight or just hang out for a few days.

The Google photos above with labels will help you to orient yourself. Because slow boats must time their passage through the pass you may find yourself spending the night at the dock.  I always plan to spend the first night at the dock because after driving six hours, rigging and launching my sailboat, it's late and I'm tired.  My crew can fish, hike and race around in the dinghy while I take a break.  The next day I'm ready to go, and cast off at slack tide which may be at noon or 9am.  The time doesn't matter, I'm on vacation time now.

The launch fee is around $6, parking is $10/day and staying at the dock is 50 cents a foot. The ramp has three or four lanes with floats. Trailer parking is abundant and long-term.  You can anchor out for free, anytime, anywhere. There is a fist of quarters shower that short times you in the bathroom.  Lots of locals and campers come down to fish off the floats, but boats tying up have priority. Try explaining that to a fisherman.

It is a very short run out the pass, under the bridge and into the Strait of Juan De Fuca, where high seas or fog may cause you to change your plans, if so, just head the other way to Swinomish Channel.  If you have never cruised the channel before, do it for sure, it only adds about 15 miles to your trip and is well worthwhile.  Or when you come back a week or so later, use the channel, but try to work it into your plans.  FYI, your boat will need to make 10 mph or better to overcome the worst of pass current, otherwise you will have to time it like the rest of us.  Of course with a favorable current you can rush on through, but the standing waves can be pretty big at times and an open bow boat will seem like a poor choice. The pass is narrowest directly under the bridge, so you will have a fast current for only a very short distance.

Dock and ramp at Deception Pass State Park (Cornet Bay)

You should run through Deception Pass for the beauty of it.

  Next door is Canoe Pass,

 and while navigable, Canoe Pass should only be used at slack water, it is very narrow  and sight distance restricted right under the bridge.  It is a little creepy when the whirlpools turn on and begin spinning you towards the rock cliff face.  Sometimes, we take our 9' dinghy with its 7.5 hp motor around Pass Island and wave to the gawkers on the bridge, but when the flood or ebb starts cascading, a tiny little dinghy has no business in either pass.

         When you come back a week or so later and are ready to head home you can wait for slack water outside the pass at the dock in Sharpe Cove or Bowman Bay. 

           I always spend my last night at the dock, and get a good rest for the long drive home.

Here's a link to the marine parks locating map  marine parks maps etc. click here

Tall ship ghosting through the pass at high slack water (photo taken from the bridge)

 In 60 minutes standing waves 3-6 feet tall may form and the current will be 5-8 mph

Swinomish Channel is itself a very picturesque not to miss 

part of all great cruises.

I would be remiss to not point out that most boats can transit the pass a good deal before or after slack water, slack water is simply zero current like in the picture.  Also, don't forget that Swinomish Channel is just around the corner and avoids the pass altogether.  

Click below for a satellite view of Deception Pass

Friday Harbor Marina Map

       For first-timers to the Friday Harbor Marina, it is really handy to know where your assigned slip is in a maze of fairways and other boaters.

        Even regular visitors can forget where G-dock is or which side are the odd-numbered slips!
Does anyone see the dinghy dock?  (It's at the end of A-dock)

Tip #1  Ask for a slip close to land, that quarter-mile walk gets old real fast!

Tip #2  If your visit includes loading and unloading passengers and gear,  save yourself a long walk and use the loading dock below the marina office. (just motor past the fuel pier) The side-facing land is for public use. The other side is for VIP's

Tip #3 Call the "Friday Harbor Master" for slip assignment, call on channel 66 or use your cell phone.  Or simply tie up to breakwater "A" when you arrive.

Image Courtesy the Port of Friday Harbor

Click on the image for a bigger view.

Click below for Satellite view of Friday Harbor

Use the Friday Harbor Marina Camera

     On the left side of this website is a link to the Friday Harbor Camera. The live camera usually pans back and forth covering most of the marina.

 By watching  the marina camera you can see the weather, the ferry terminal, vacant slips and even see if there are very many boats anchored in the cove.

 If you watch closely you can see at the bottom of the gangway, A-dock, Comm dock, Walkway C and the By-pass dock, all are side tie and available for transient use. (look at the Friday Harbor marina map to get your bearings,     marina map  ) This area is first come first served and is assigned or reserved via the harbor master on ch 66. Looking at the space available and the dinghy dock spaces directly below the gangway will give you a sneak preview of how crowded the marina is.   If you choose to stay at one of these side tie docks you will reduce your walk to shore by about a quarter mile. The Comm dock has electricity.

16 public floats and docks you should know about in the San Juan's

Where to Find Public Docks other than State Parks

When visiting the San Juan's many of us head for the great marine state parks, and for good reason, that's where the floats, campgrounds and amenities are located that vacationers desire.

However, if you want to get off the boat and see something other than campers and boat people you have two choices. #1 dinghy ashore somewhere or #2 find a public dock and head out. This list and description of San Juan area docks excludes the state parks because most marine state parks are landlocked or waterlocked leaving visitors with no opportunity to explore beyond the park.

Sixteen public docks, organized and listed in no particular order.

.     Obstruction Pass, 

This county float and boat ramp is located just inside Obstruction Pass on the southern tip of Orcas Island. 

 Nearby pass traffic wakes make this a punishing place to tie up even for just the two hours allowed, however rendezvousing with friends on shore or heading out on bicycles for a strenuous ride to the top of Mount Constitution may be just what's needed to round out a perfect cruise. Tip: For longer visits, anchor nearby after dropping off passengers and bikes, then drag the dinghy up onto the float or shore. Your boat will thank you when you return

Obstruction Pass county dock in red circle at top
Blakely's at bottom

     Blakely's 

Blakely's is a conveniently located fuel dock/deli store about halfway between everywhere we go in the San Juan's. 

They are just inside Peavine Pass on Blake Island. On shore is a small store and deli bar famous for ice cream cones to savor on the lush waterfront lawns. Grazing deer share the lawn so watch your step. The dock is rather long with plenty of room on both sides to tie up big and little yachts and still not interfere with those getting fuel. They offer overnight marina slips in a very protected tiny cove. The island and roads are private so boaters may not leave the marina property.

Fuel and store dock at Blakelys is long and you may tie up on either side to avoid wind or current issues.

     Deer Harbor

 Deer Harbor and community is on the west end of Orcas Island at the end of the road. 

 You may purchase fuel and snacks, get ice and rent a slip. The county dock is actually the same dock as the fuel float. Simply tie up for the allowed two hours out of the way just past the fuel dispenser.  The county section is painted yellow and accommodates several runabouts, sailboats, or one large yacht. This is an excellent jump-off point for kayakers heading for Jones Island or for dropping off people catching the San Juan Transit minibus. The bay out front is calm and rogue wakes are few, anchoring room is abundant, and restrooms, showers, and laundry are on the wharf.

If you squint, and look under the main wharf at Deer Harbor, you can see the yellow painted county dock.

Get your Camping, Resort, and Marina Reservations in the San Juans -NOW- before it's too late

       Okay,  here it is, the day before Valentines Day, and you are stuck on  finding the perfect Valentine.  How about a reservation at a B&B in the San Juans for some time in July or August. Or a cozy romantic restaurant dinner date in a  Friday Harbor eatery.

      Enough with Valentines, by the time you read this, you're either in the dog house, living on your boat, or should be making summer cruise plans. In any case its probably not too late to get that reservation at a campground or marina.
      When planning a San Juan cruise you don't need any reservations to have a great vacation, but some people feel better knowing there is an open slip or warm bed waiting their arrival.  As a suggestion you might consider making a reservation at a popular stopover for just one or two nights in the middle of your cruise, leaving the rest of your time free to go where the wind blows you, simply staying where you happen to dock or anchor. With a speedy power boat all the San Juan islands and parks are within an easy run no matter where you start or plan to end up. A more sedate  pokey sailing type vessel  may be somewhat limited how far it can run before the sun sets.
     Even if you don't reserve some fancy resort for a stopover visit you can still make a day time visit to Friday Harbor, Roche Harbor, Deer Harbor or many others, park that yacht for free, or anchor and dinghy to the dinghy dock,  then armed with a fistful of quarters enjoy a wonderful, blissful, rejuvenating, hot shower.  You will get back to the boat refreshed and ready to continue your vacation anew.

 Hot showers are still free at Lopez Village.

Check it out here >>>  Lopez Village Free Hot showers

Is disaster simply one little mistake away?

Moments later, my attention was abruptly drawn away by the unmistakable roar of an engine revving at full throttle.

It was a tranquil Sunday afternoon, the kind where the air feels warm and still, and the water gently laps against the hull—a perfect day for leisurely boating. We were relaxing on deck, enjoying the peaceful atmosphere, when the gentleman moored behind us untied his lines. As he cast off, he mentioned he was making a quick stop at the pumpout station on the adjacent dock before heading home. I gave him a casual wave from the cockpit and returned to my magazine, assuming it was just another routine departure.

Moments later, my attention was abruptly drawn away by the unmistakable roar of an engine revving at full throttle. A feeling of unease crept over me.

 “Something’s wrong,” I said to Linda, glancing up. “Look over there.”

Sure enough, the boater who had just left was now in the next fairway, visibly struggling against a powerful current. His boat, a thirty-footer, was being dragged toward the aluminum footbridge connecting the walkways. He was clearly in trouble. “He’s not going to make the turn,” I muttered, my concern growing by the second.

Then, to my astonishment, he made a desperate decision—he gunned the engine,

 slamming it into full throttle in an attempt to execute a rapid 180-degree turn before colliding with the walkway. For a moment, it seemed like he might succeed. The boat narrowly missed the footbridge and almost completed the turn, but the momentum was too great. Instead of cleanly maneuvering away, the vessel barreled into the dock adjacent to the pumpout station. With the engines screaming, the impact was forceful enough to propel the boat nearly three-quarters of the way onto the dock, its bow perched at a steep, precarious angle.

Panic seemed to set in. Desperate to correct the situation, the boater threw the engine into reverse,

 the sudden jolt pulled the vessel off the dock sending it sliding back into the water. Now facing the opposite direction, the boat roared backward—straight toward the footbridge. A heartbeat later, the sickening crunch of fiberglass meeting metal filled the air. The unmistakable sound of damage done. Then, finally, the engine fell silent.

The entire chaotic episode had unfolded in mere moments, as quickly as an engine could rev and a boat could collide. By the time I and a few other onlookers hurried over with boat hooks, the vessel was once again floating peacefully next to the pumpout, as if nothing had happened. But the damage was done.

What does one even say to someone who has just put their boat through such a disastrous sequence of missteps,

 each error compounding upon the last? There is no easy way to soften the blow of such an expensive and humiliating lesson.

Speaking for myself—and likely for many other seasoned skippers—I can admit that I, too, have misjudged currents or the handling of my boat. I have, in moments of desperation, gunned the engine to avoid a collision, and I may have even suffered a few minor bumps as a result. Fortunately, I’ve never caused significant damage—or perhaps I’ve just blocked those memories from my mind.

Experience is a relentless teacher, and sometimes, the lessons it imparts come at a steep price.

 In this case, the takeaway is clear: Never attempt to turn around upstream of an obstacle you absolutely do not want to hit. And if you do, for the love of fiberglass, do not hit it at full throttle.

With hindsight, two alternative courses of action present themselves. First, the boater could have turned around outside the fairway and backed down toward the pumpout, though this would still have carried the risk of losing control in the strong current. A second, and arguably much wiser, choice would have been to seek out a different location or simply wait for a tide change. Sometimes, the best course of action is no action, or to acknowledge the conditions and exercise patience. When it comes to boating, luck should never be the primary strategy.

4th of July in the San Juan Islands - Fireworks - Parades - Celebrations

Here is a list of independence day celebrations, parades and fireworks planned on Lopez, Orcas, and San Juan Island.

     Reserve a slip at the Friday Harbor Marina, but if you just show up, there is always room for another anchor and the paddle over to the dinghy dock is super short. (FYI -  anchoring in the cove places you directly in front of the fireworks barge -- there is no better or closer view possible for your independence day grand finale)

           We had such a fun time last year at Friday Harbor celebrating the Fourth of July that we are going back for a vacation cruise repeat in 2017.    

Don't limit yourself -- below is a list of Orcas, San Juan, and Lopez island fireworks and celebrations planned for the 4th.

Some of the festivities are for different dates so with a little planning you can attend several events.

I copied some of these snippets from last year (so the dates are wrong for 2017 and some events may be altered) 

You may read about the entire year of events right here >>  >> Chamber of commerce for San Juan Island

Roche Harbor Resort Events on the 4th of July

Enjoy the Family 3.3K Fun Run, log-rolling contest, blindfolded dinghy race, doughnut eating contest, children's games, live music and fireworks.

Fun Run at Yellow Brick Road

Kids Games at Pool Lawn 12:30-2:30 p.m. - Doughnut Eating at West Lawn

Blindfolded Dinghy Race 4:00 p.m. - Log Rolling at Wharf Building

Fireworks Show in the Harbor at dusk!

Friday Harbor: on the 4th of July

Monday, July 4, 2016  All Day

​Friday Harbor's 4th of July highlights include a small-town parade, a community picnic, live music, dancing and fireworks! 

The parade, known as one of the top 10 small town parades in the nation, passes through downtown Friday Harbor at 10:30am. Immediately following the parade, the 'Pig War Picnic' put on by the Kiwanis, will be held at the San Juan Historical Museum grounds.

 Expect live music and a great lunch. At dinner time, the Port of Friday Harbor will be putting on music in the Port parking lot, followed by the biggest and best Fireworks show beginning at dusk, approximately 10:00p.m.

Orcas Island: for the 4th of July (check dates)

Orcas Island chamber of Commerce


July 1. Orcas Community Parade. Sponsor: Orcas Island Chamber of Commerce

July 3. Deer Harbor Fireworks. Sponsor: Bellport Deer Harbor Marina

July 4. Eastsound Fireworks. Sponsor: Orcas Island Chamber of http://orcasislandchamber.com/Commerce

Lopez Island: on the 4th of July

Lopez Chamber of Commerce - calendar
fireworks are at Fisherman Bay on the 4th

I copied this from the Lopez Chamber website, there is a lot more planned during the year, music, food, art etc.
Event Description

The 4th of July on Lopez Island has become one of Washington State's most treasured celebrations.

 Many come from all over the country to enjoy a "down home" themed parade and one of the most spectacular community funded fireworks displays you can find anywhere. The island rolls out the red carpet every 4th of July when they host what has become one of the "don't miss" events associated with the beautiful San Juan Islands. 

Make sure you plan ahead as it has, for good reason, become the busiest time getting to and from Lopez and lodging can fill up quite early in the year. What really makes this great event a success year after year are the multitude of volunteers and generous donations from both local businesses and individuals throughout the local community and families who come to Lopez to enjoy the show year after year. 

Join us, for what has grown into a larger than life tradition, this 4th of July. It's a day packed with many events and activities, not to mention an island full of patriotism.

More Info: www.lopezfireworks.com
http://www.lopezisland.com/index.htm

Our new "Land and Sea Guide" is packed with suggestions,
and outside the box ideas
for getting around the San Juans.

 

Amazon - Books available now

Click below for satellite view of Fisherman Bay, Lopez Village

Is the Best Vacation Destination in the San Juan Islands Friday Harbor?

     OK, let's get serious, the best vacation destination will offer great value and astounding memories. True!

         So having a orca breach just a few feet from your dinghy fits the  description - right again!

So does a romantic sunset dinner in a deserted anchorage, discovering a tiny octopus in a tidepool, or having a lost seal pup crying at your transom.  But if history fascinates you and killer whales terrify you, perhaps a museum should be on your short list.

Friday Harbor Marina

      If you are visiting the San Juans by car, by boat, or on foot and only have one place to choose for your stop, make it the city of Friday Harbor on San Juan Island. 

 If at all possible you should allow a full day for exploring and then spend the night on board your boat at the marina or at a local tourist lodge, B&B or motel. For campers, head for the county campground at Smallpox Bay on the west side. 

       Ride your bicycle, drive your car, or purchase an all day transit pass for $15. Friday Harbor and San Juan Island is your number one choice. 

     While on San Juan Island, stop by the  visitors center in Friday Harbor for maps and brochures. ( it's on Spring street across from Kings Market) Check out the Whale Museum,the San Juan Historical Museum, American Camp, English camp, Lime Kiln State Park (aka "Whale Watch Park")and a host of private enterprises and artsy craftsy studios, but don't miss Roche Harbor, and the Sculpture Garden at Westcott Bay Reserve.  Local shops and eateries will satisfy your appetite for cuisine and collectables.

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Roche Harbor 4th of July reservations at the Marina

I called the Roche Harbor Master today to see if a slip was open for the 4th of July

The answer was NO.

I was told they hold a lottery in February and I missed it, rats.  Looks like I'll be anchoring out this year.

Just thought I would pass this along.
btw this was 2013

John

Click below for a satellite view of Roche Harbor

Things to do - Get off the boat -There are places to go - Bring Bicycles on your next Cruise to the San Juan Islands

       Bicycling the San Juans, may not describe our cruise last month, but we did bring three bicycles, and we did knock off about forty miles on San Juan Island.

At Friday Harbor with three bicycles, and yes the jib sheets caught on the handlebars on every tack.

      Last January I posted a short blog laying out a possible bike/hike/cruise scenario/itinerary that you could use as a planning building block for your own cruise. 

Bikes in the San Juans  Below is a quick summation of what we actually ended up doing.

      Our San Juan Island trip started at Shelter Bay LaConner on the Swinomish Channel. 

 We had just returned from a week long cruise into Hood Canal and after one night in our slip we cast off again at 5:30 am trying to beat the falling tide which would leave us trapped at the dock. With just inches or less to spare we sneaked across our shallow entrance shoal and slid into Swinomish Channel, and rode the remaining outgoing current all the way into Padilla Bay. 

 After a day of on and off winds and then really great afternoon sailing winds we arrived at 5pm and hailed the Friday Harbor Harbor Master 

staking claim to a slip for the next two nights.  A casual stroll around town, and live local music drifting down from the city's seawall  gathering esplanade contributed to a very relaxing evening on board. Not having tides or currents dictating our bicycling schedule allowed us to sleep in the next morning. Finally with hot coffee in hand, (okay, in the cup) I wandered up to Kings Market and purchased hash browns, eggs and some yummy impulse items to bring back to the boat for a late breakfast.

      Definitely before noon, (but not much) we walked our bikes off the floats and headed uphill, of course it's always going to be uphill when you start at sea level.

 We used a folded and wadded up, photocopied not to scale scrap of map for guidance and headed for Cattle Point. 

The roads were without bike lanes, but drivers were respectful and we had an easy ride to American Camp and then on to Cattle Point Lighthouse. 

 Fortunately the weather was clear and with no fog we had  views all the way to Vancouver Island and across the strait of Juan De Fuca. The Olympic mountains hung in the distance completing our postcard views.  Viewing Cattle Pass from up high was a thrill and brought into perspective what was previously a cockpit level chart image.  It was easy to see why the Americans chose this location to set up their cannons. From our vantage point we could scan the water route all the way back to Turn Island where our boat lay just around the corner.

      We brought cookies and water for lunch, and learned next time to bring lots more water and less cookies.

      There is no road right along the coast so we rode part way back to Friday Harbor before turning towards 

Lime Kiln Park.

 We encountered a few long steep grades which required walking for some of us. The cliff side views are stunning and it is somewhat difficult to ride safely while scanning the waters for Killer Whales.  I learned right away to stop if I wanted to really take in the sights. 

We followed a circle route taking us by the Lavender Gardens and back to town on a different road.

      I forgot and left my camera on  the boat so no pictures, sorry.  The next day we were fortunate to not have any soreness brought on by being out of shape and suddenly biking like we were still children. 

On the way back to La Conner we stopped by Spencer Spit for an afternoon hike, and then anchored at James Island.

 We hung around in the morning waiting for the rising tide which we rode almost all the way to Shelter Bay.

      This cruise, in spite of motor problems (our diesel quit and forced us to use our 7.5 kicker for the entire trip) turned out to be one of our best, longest, and most enjoyable.  I highly recommend planning a bicycle/cruise to any of the San Juan Islands.



Click below for a satellite view of Lime Kiln, Whale Watch Park

How many hp does it take to battle the current getting to the San Juans?

We are tied up in slip F23 at Friday Harbor for our second night and since we have free wifi I thought I would let you know what is going on right now.

Guest slip at Friday Harbor

I can proclaim Rosey has made it to the San Juans, but the story is far from told.
As you know we started in La Conner and made a 160 mile detour into Hood canal.
At our farthest turn around point Roseys old engine chose to quit and we were forced to return to LaConner using our 7.5 hp Honda dinghy motor. After some discussion and a good nights sleep in our rented slip we decided to push on to San Juan Island at a maximum 4 mph and hope the wind would help out. The trip to Friday Harbor took about eleven hours overall. We had some following wind boost in Lopez sound, but when we turned the corner into Upright Channel things came to life and we had fantastic sailing right to the marina breakwater, at times our gps showed us 7.1 mph. Every tack required un-hooking jib sheets from handle bars, next time I load bikes I will try to improve the system.

Yesterday we rode our bicycles to Cattle Pass Point Lighthouse and then over to Lime Kiln Park, a distance of about 35 miles.  We had to walk up some of the hills and several jerks honked at us. None us of were really in shape, but today we feel good with no soreness so it worked out fine

Today we plan to head back with a stop at Spencer Spit and then spend the night at James Island while we wait for flood tide tommorrow morning, hopefully the current will  whisk us all the way to LaConner because our 4 mph speed is stopped dead by an opposing wind and current.

Spencer Spit

Anchored at James Island

So the answer to the "how many horsepower" question is 7.5 hp, but were not back to La Conner yet.
John
(for anyone that is curious - I switched to a 15 hp Honda and gained one mph in top speed and one mph in cruising speed - imho 15 hp is the correct outboard auxiliary power for a boat like Windrose (seven ton +-)

one week later from home:

OK, update time, first off, the four boat dock at James Island was full so we had to anchor out and dinghy to shore at the kayak campground for our campfire to cook hot dog and s'mores. Anchoring was a real chore, we tried setting the hook three times in two locations before I felt good enough to sleep through a tide change. We ended up with a Bahamian set using our grapple anchor for number two. Plus at Linda's urging I set Roseys antique sounder alarm at two fathoms, I slept like a rock until daylight. We waited for the current change and upped anchor around noon, as soon as we came around the end of James the kicker quit. For a moment I considered raising sail but decided trying to claw off a lee shore was a bad move. We had about a thousand feet before we would be in trouble, and knowing we could quickly drop three hooks I concentrated on fixing the kicker problem asap. Turned out the primer bulb was sucking air because the hose barb was broken halfway through, with a little realigning of the hose it started up and never quit again, but the problem obviously needs attention before we depend on it again. Once clear of James with the wind still on our beam we loosened both sails and made quick work of Rosario Strait. The wind held steady and the helping current up Guemes channel boosted us along at over 5mph right into Swinomish channel where the wind quit, but the current and kicker carried us up to LaConner in short order. With only one half mile left to reach Shelter Bay the current did an about face. Under Rainbow bridge I let the motor idle in neutral so I could measure the current with the gps, astonishingly we were already being swept back at 2 mph and losing fast. We quickly spun around and ran at wot to regain our lost ground and make it into the protected channel leading to our moorage. Luckily we gave our selves just enough time to make it, an hour or so later would have been a nightmare current possibly forcing us to anchor in the channel somewhere waiting for the current change.

Sunrise from shore from Langley on Whidbey Island in Saratoga Passage

All systems running before engine gave up
see the old spinning flashing light depth sounder? (very nostalgic)

Stopped by Navy for submarine while crossing to Port Ludlow

Lonely Rosey is only guest at Pleasant Harbor on Hood Canal, btw hot showers, wifi come with slip fee

Camp Parson Boy Scout Camp at Jackson Cove on Dabob Bay (Hood Canal)

 We anchored at Camp Parsons and went ashore for the Campfire on Jaidens last night of summer camp. Our primary reason for making trip up Hood Canal was to pick up Jaiden  and then head north to our planned bicycle trip around San Juan Island. In the morning after all the scouts had departed in their many cars we discovered Rosey's engine had given up for good. With only our 7.5 kicker and three gallons of gas our options were limited.  With the help of Quintin in Portland via cell phone, google maps, and an upcoming beer festival for incentive. We were directed five miles to Seabeck where I anchored and took the dinghy to shore.  I then hitched a ride with some local fisherman to Home Depot, purchased four five gallon gas cans and returned with enough fuel to complete our journey.

Our first trip with Rosey is behind us now, we spent twelve days, covered over two hundred sea miles, 35+ bicycle miles, got held up by a nuclear sub, what a great time.


   Here is a follow up about Roseys not starting that morning.  It turned out the shut down lever was still pulled out due to a weak spring or whatever, and after an aggravating but sorta adventurous ordeal I discovered the  issue, pushed the lever, and she started up and has ran fine ever since. So operator error or something like that hits again.   

Click below for a satellite view of Shelter Bay in La Conner

Launching at Deception Pass and Racing to the San Juan Islands and Friday Harbor

           Fourth of July celebrations are over, the crowds are gone, and we have until sunset to drive 275 miles, step the mast, launch the boat, and claim a spot at the dock.

  This year we are hauling our 25 foot  sailboat, our trusty 9 foot dinghy and an inflatable kayak (three boats, three people).  We are sneaking through Seattle just ahead of rush hour and hope to be in the Anacortes area late in the afternoon, but I'm already talking of changing our plans as we drive along at 60 mph. Instead of going to Washington Park as planned, I suggest Deception Pass State Park.  We had been there before by boat and knew there would be a good ramp, docks, hiking, and  protected Cornet Bay. The only problem would be the threat of fog and nasty currents in the pass. I knew in the morning the current was favorable and fog, well fog was another thing.  I had previously announced that even with our GPS,  we shouldn't be  taking risks in the fog and,  we should change plans or wait it out. Another consideration is that at Washington Park we will have to take off or anchor, but at Deception Pass we can stay the night at the dock.  We went straight to Deception Pass this time.

On our way to Cornet Bay we crossed over the double bridges spanning Deception Pass, but first I pull over so we can  walk out onto Pass Island. 

 We get great views of Deception Pass and  Canoe Pass.  As luck would have it a pirate ship replica full of tourists is going through just as we arrive. The ships cannon fires and smoke fills the air as the boom echoes off the canyon walls.  The water is deceivingly calm at slack tide, in another half hour the water will be rushing out to sea at more than 6 mph and the pass will have whirlpools, and standing waves (sometimes, not always) over 5 feet high, and that's just a normal summer day. In the winter it can be dangerous for even large vessels.  I took a picture looking straight down down at narrow little Canoe Pass, tomorrow Linda and I will  fail to get the dinghy through Canoe Pass, not being able to overcome the incoming current.

This is looking straight down from the bridge into Canoe Pass at slack water, tomorrow we fail to overcome the current with our 7.5 hp honda on a 9 foot dinghy

Deception Pass bridge is really two bridges meeting on Pass Island, this view is looking westward towards the San Juans.

This view is from the Deception Pass bridge, Cornet Bay is in the background and off to the right past the little island.  If you come here I recommend you figure out a way to get out on this bridge, It is well worth the hike or drive, unless its foggy then don't bother.

     Cornet Bay is just half a mile inside the pass so we arrive there a 

few minutes after crossing the bridge.

  As soon as we pull into the parking lot it's obvious coming to Deception Pass is a good idea.  The docks have plenty of room for more boats, and the trailer parking lot is virtually empty.  While I start rigging "Sunshine" and prepare to step the mast, Jaiden and Linda walk down on the docks, within minutes Jaiden is back for his fishing gear.  In about two hours I'm ready to back down the launch ramp and float the boat. The trailers extension tongue and guides make launching and retrieving a simple affair.

This ramp is first rate and good at all tide levels, after  launching you can tie up for the night or up to three days at the float. 

Down on the dock we discover Margarette and her black lab mixture Mackee. A lady and her dog, and their vintage 1937 40 foot motor sedan. We had met them four years earlier when we were on a trip to Port Townsend.  Over the next two days we become friends again even though power boaters and sailors don't mix well.

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 Jaiden is having a such a great time fishing and meeting new people that we decide to stay another day at Cornet Bay. This gives Linda and Margarette time to hike some trails. I get to read.

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        On an incoming tide Linda and I take the dinghy and perhaps foolishly attempt to circle Pass Island.

  The currents and eddies aren't too bad in Canoe Pass, no standing waves have developed yet, but it is a challenge holding a straight course.  The swirlies are tossing us around so much Linda accuses me of doing it on purpose.  At the narrowest point directly under the bridge our 7.5 hp Honda can go no faster, we aren't making headway and are at a standstill unable to proceed. Briefly I consider riding a whirlpool counter current to gain another few feet, but instead just turn around.  The  run back to Cornet Bay takes only minutes with the current whisking us along. A week later when we return to go home Jaiden and I take another shot at Canoe Pass, only this time with a little lighter load the dinghy is planing along at better than 10 mph. 

We fly through Canoe Pass, circle Pass Island and return through Deception Pass.

 Small waves and whirlpools all around us, it's not really much of an achievement, but with Deception Pass's nasty reputation it makes a great story, and is a ride  that only few people get to experience in a little dinghy.  During our extra day at Cornet Bay we were able to study our current and tide charts bringing me to the realization that my plan to whale watch and ride the current northward in Haro Strait would be ill advised since we would most likely not get to a place to moor for the night until 8 o'clock or later. If any problems came up we would be in the dark. As it turned out, planning anything for mornings was a waste of time since every evening a blanket of fog descended on us.  

        On the morning of the third day we had to decide what to do and where to go, and if we were going through the pass we would need to go before 1pm or the tidal current would reverse trapping us for six more hours. 

 To make things worse some men in a pretty large sea worthy looking aluminum fisheries boat had just come back from the pass saying the fog was pea soup and waves were 6 feet forcing them to turn around. This was not good news, our only  option was to run through Swinomish channel taking us on a round about journey to avoid the pass.  Both previous days the fog had burned off in the early afternoon and the weather forecast was for more of the same, curiously the forecast said nothing about small craft warnings or waves any higher than 1- 2 feet. I decided we would go through Deception Pass then follow the shoreline northward, if the fog or seas were too much for us we would duck into Bowman Bay just outside the pass. 

        When I  announced we were leaving Margarette and some other boaters asked us to stay in touch by radio and give them updates on sea and fog conditions.  

We left Cornet Bay and the outgoing current immediately pulled the boat swiftly  into Deception Pass, there was no turning back now.

 Our little 10 hp outboard would not stand a chance of pushing against this current, (plus we are towing the dinghy and a 7.5 outboard) all we can do is maintain steering and go for the ride. The fog is thick, we can barely see the bridge where we stood three days earlier.  It's not  pea soup fog, in pea soup we can't see the bow of the boat and it feels hard to breathe but I know that's just me getting nervous.. Visibility is about a quarter mile so we are not worried about running into other boaters. Under the bridge are 4-6 foot standing waves and we bury our nose into the first one but the water rolls off before it gets near us in the cockpit, the next wave buries us also and the boat begins to hobby horse bringing the propeller out of the water for a few seconds at a time, I reduce throttle to slow us down and avoid over revving the motor. It never occurs to me that we could get some great pictures. The biggest waves only last for a few hundred feet and are at the narrowest point in the pass, and then the sea state returns to something you could paddle a canoe in. In short order it is quiet, and we are alone in the fog, the bridge is lost somewhere behind us,

        Deception Island is 1/2 a mile ahead and to one side somewhere, beyond is Juan De Fuca Strait,  Bowman Bay should be right beside us, if we could see anything I would turn in for a quick visit.

 We have to trust our hand held GPS to know where we are since all we see is white fog. Suddenly the radio crackles to life, it's Margarette wanting our report. I inform her that the sea is very calm and visibility is about a quarter mile or less, the standing waves are only under the bridge where expected. We gave Margarette two more reports on the fog as we made our way north along the coast.  I don't know what she finally did, but I think she went through Swinomish channel since she did not have a GPS to guide her through the fog.  We on the other hand continued north riding a very convenient counter current all the way to 

Skyline Marina in Burrows Bay where we promptly ran aground in the entrance channel right next to a sign reading "shallow water on right side"  

Our retractable keel once again saves the day as we winch it up a foot and enter the moorage. Soft groundings are embarrassing but don't damage the boat. Skyline Marina is private and unless you are buying gas there is no place to stop or tie up. We are killing time waiting for the fog to lift, and circle around ogling all the million dollar boats before venturing  back into Burrows Bay.  Finally the fog starts to dissipate and we can  see all the way across Rosario Strait, plus a nice breeze has come up. I quickly kill the motor, hoist our main and working jib and point our little ship at James Island.

James Island Marine Park

Four boat float at James

       We are running on a fast beam reach, and cross the strait in record time, exactly the sailing I was looking for. As we sail along I can see the fog is still hanging south of us, I try to reach Margarette on channel 16 but she doesn't respond. We decide to head for Friday Harbor and shoot past James Island into Thatcher Pass.  Friday Harbor is a bustling little city, the county seat and largest city in the San Juan's. It also boasts a very large first class boat basin. Once through Thatcher Pass the wind falls off so we motor-sail in order to keep making good progress.  

Around 5 o'clock I begin to worry that the harbor office may close before we get there so I use my cell phone to call the harbor master to reserve a slip. 

I'm informed they don't make reservations, so I ask if they have any slips available and he says he doesn't know, but when I arrive I can call security on channel 66a for a slip assignment. We ride some pretty good winds and benefit a lot from some  favorable currents  arriving at the outer breakwater about 6:45 where I radio the harbor master and receive our slip number for the night, I guess the phone was too easy. We drop sails and  motor, leaving no wake, into our slip.  Most of the boaters are enjoying dinner and cocktails, it is a fabulous evening.  Jaiden does a great job with the lines and keeping the dinghy from banging into the neighbors. After all the usual small talk and story telling with boat people (sailors) in the slip next to us we head into town for dinner, the weather is great and were starving. We pass by all the bars and grills, the grocery deli, Chinese food, Sea Food, and find ourselves at a pizza place we had discovered years earlier. Once dinner is devoured we window shop our way back to the docks. Jaiden is having fun running ahead and poking into side streets, a habit that is not setting well with Linda. We meet the resident seal again, he/she (Popeye) seems to hang out near the floating sea food store for some reason.

I didn't get a picture arriving so this shot is as we are leaving Friday Harbor, I have about 20 seconds to get out of the way before the Ferry  picks up speed

Friday Harbor

        Linda fills out a registration card and places it with our moorage fee into an envelope so that Jaiden can shove it in the little slot in the closed harbor office door. That's it, we don't need to do anything except vacate our slip by 1pm tomorrow.  Tonight I sleep like a rock, It had been a long day.  I wake up early when the boat people next to us leave, then roll over and go back to sleep.  Every day starts the same way, we make coffee on the camp stove using our 12 cup drip coffee maker.  If its cold out we set it up inside, if its nice we set up in the cockpit. Later Linda and I walk down the dock to the seafood store to buy ice and watch Popeye beg.  Jaiden hauls all our garbage to the dumpster and then we cast off, we will have a small current against us all day as we make our way to Jones Island, but we have a light following wind. As soon as we clear the last wharf, Jaiden and I set the 150 drifter on a pole and wing the main out to catch all the wind we can. I experiment with different headings to get to Jones Island the fastest under sail. Our big drifter is helping us out pace several other boats going the same general direction. 

I mention to Linda that maybe I should rig a preventer so the boom doesn't pull an unannounced jibe on us. Hindsight is 2020, later Jaiden got a really hard whack that scared us all.

Wing on wing all the way to Jones, this is what its all about.

     The bean bag chair is Jaiden's usual on deck comfort zone, unless a sail change is needed.

We have sailed all the way to Jones, and we could have sailed right to the dock or anchor but using the motor is prudent when other boats are around.  As we motor into the bay at Jones there is no room at the dock so we decide to anchor on the right side where we have anchored before. This is Jaiden's first time handling the anchor. 

The cove is very quiet and all eyes are on us. the first attempt to set the hook fails, as I back down it easily comes loose.

 Jaiden pulls it back up as I motor back into position for another attempt, this time I have him pay out enough line for about a 7 to 1 scope before he cleats it hard, but it comes loose again. I ask him if he cleaned it completely of weeds and mud, his answer makes me suspect not. I go forward and assist sloshing the anchor up and down washing loose the snagged grass and muck, I can barely lift it, I think I know why it didn't hook the second time.  I run through the steps for anchoring and make sure he knows why and what we are doing. This time the anchor digs in. To prevent the boat having excessive swing we use the dinghy to set another anchor at about 180 degrees off the first, this will keep us off the rocks and away from the boats at the dock. Jaiden heads for shore in the dinghy, Linda and I settle in for some reading. Later we up anchor and move the boat to the dock when a power boat leaves.  Jones Island has camp sites on shore with fire pits,  for dinner we get a big fire going and roast kielbasa and marshmallows, several other boaters come around to share the fire and join in the conversation.  Later on when it is almost dark we notice the deer have gathered in the lawn area right next to us. After it is completely dark the children have fun walking amongst the deer and using their flashlights to spot the tame animals.

The next day I get some good pics

This lady was right next to me and I didn't notice, she never got up, its about two feet 

      When we leave the campfire and head down the dock to the boat it is after 11 o'clock so we fall asleep immediately, but both Linda and I are up around 6 am and find each other on a hike across the island.  Our walks started separately but ended together.  We return to the boat, start the coffee and plan the day. Today we want to make it all the way to Lummi Island where my brother lives.  Our plan is to sail the entire way, anchor off shore near his house and spend the night visiting.  Coffee, bagels and cheese for breakfast, no sign of Jaiden makes us wonder if his head whacking yesterday was more serious than thought. 

 I've been paying attention to the wind and think we can sail away from the dock without using the motor. 

 There is a very slight breeze in the cove and much more once clear of the island. I set the 150 drifter and the breeze just barely holds the sails shape even though it is made of light weight 1.5 oz cloth. Any heavier sail cloth would have hung limp.  Since the boat is facing into the wind the sail is back winded at the dock, I cast off the bow line and keep the stern line with me on the dock, as the boat slowly pivots 180 degrees the sail fills correctly and begins to pull the boat away in the right direction. I step aboard and tidy up lines and fenders while Linda steers us deftly between anchored boats.  In no time at all we catch fair wind and leave Jones behind. It's a good feeling when your able sail away and not use the motor, especially with an audience, and much more satisfying than running aground.  

      We  head north around Orcas Island, Jaiden sleeps until close to noon, and its about this time that we begin to loose our battle with the current.  We knew that the current would turn on us but hoped the wind would stick around to make up the difference, it did not.

 We are halfway between Orcas and Sucia and have about 15 miles to go, the current is dragging us backwards at about 1 mph.  We have eaten our snacks, our trail mix, made sandwiches, drank the water, set the Bimini top to create a little shade from the blaring sun, and stared at the same point of land for the last two hours, discussing whether it was getting closer or farther from us. We drop the sails and start the motor, I quickly check our speed with the GPS, measure our distance and determine we will be about 8 more hours, which is unacceptable, so it's time to change course around Matia Island to intercept a counter current that will swing us right into Hale passage on the other side of Lummi Island. A longer distance but with smart navigation we will get there faster, I hope.  After about 30 minutes I start to question my judgment knowing that the current charts have not always been correct. I then change course again heading for shallow water near shore on Orcas Island, I know that the current is less in shallow water, plus I expect the wind to come back once we clear the shadow of Orcas and enter Rosario Strait. 

We are running along in about 30 to 40 feet of water when suddenly the depth sounder swings right up to 12 feet, I instantly slow down and turn abruptly away from shore. 

After conferring with my chart I know right where we are because the chart clearly marks an under water ledge coming out from shore. No harm just a little scare and a lesson learned for free this time. After about an hour conditions improve, as we come around Orcas and feel the influence of Rosario Strait the wind is on our beam. The seas are 3 to 4 feet with an off angle swell sweeping across.  This is very uncomfortable for Linda so she goes below, Jaiden and I are really having fun, we get the sails up and sheet her in tight, this greatly stabilizes the action as we leap from wave to wave but does nothing for the underlying swell. We are still unable to pick out Lummi Island from the background scenery, we can see the tall summit of course but the tip of the island is blurred with the mainland.

     We are making very good headway but the current is also dragging us south. Each time I tell Jaiden to hold a course steering towards a prominent landmark or feature, I need to correct myself in a few minutes due to the sideways drift. (set)  It's imperative not to steer for the tip of the island, but to steer well above to correct for the drift, otherwise we will find ourselves way south and have to steer directly into the current to get around the island. We are sailing very fast and the boat is so responsive I feel like saying to heck with the destination, and just sail. It is obvious Jaiden is enjoying manning the tiller even though it is hard work.  We have sailed about 6 to 8 miles and cleared the tip of Lummi Island, we now have to turn south into the wind, but with the current.  I set us on a close reach crossing Hale passage, with the current boosting us we should be able make two long tacks and round up in the little bay where we plan to anchor.  I call my brother Bill on the phone to let him know we are getting near, he wants us to call him when we anchor so he can pick us up in the car. 

 I need to adjust our course so as to not antagonize the skipper of the Whatcom Chief, the small ferry that serves Lummi Island residents. 

 By the time we close the gap the ferry has crossed in front of us several more times. When we started the passage this morning I knew we had all day to get here, part way here I was sure we would be very late or not make it at all, now it appeared we had time to kill and still have an early dinner. Jaiden handles the anchor again, he remembers everything I told him and we set the anchor very well the first try, we set the grapple anchor off at 90 degrees, I'm not worried about our swing room but the changing current direction every 6 hours or so. If an anchor is set from one direction it may pull out and not reset itself when pulled from the opposite direction.  Bill doesn't wait for us to call, we see him up on the road waiting to see where we come ashore.  The three of us grab a few things and climb into the dinghy, the first place we come ashore the beach is not very steep so to avoid getting our feet wet I push off and come ashore 100 feet further up where we have a nice steep gravel beach.  The three of us muscle the dinghy up into the driftwood and tie it to a tree. Bill says not to worry that someone may steal our dinghy and outboard, after all we are already trespassing on private property.

At Uncle Bills house we find more deer including new fawns

We enjoyed our visit with Bill, but it was the turn around point for our trip.  We did not have anything left to accomplish except find our way home.  The next morning we talked until late and then Bill gave us a ride back to the beach where we stashed the dinghy.  The boat anchors had done their job.  We weighed anchor within 30 minutes and slowly motored southward along Lummi Islands east shore.

The wind was blowing right in our face about 15 to 20 mph and throwing up spray and chop, we motored as close to shore as was safe (sometimes within 100 feet) to avoid the worst of the waves and wind all the way to Inati Bay where we ducked in and anchored for lunch.

 Jaiden took the dinghy to shore and explored the area. The beach  is private property leased to the Bellingham Yacht Club.  My brother is good friends with the owners of the shoreline and surrounding forest  but we still we felt like trespassers due largely to the keep out signs on the beach. While sheltered in the bay we discussed our next nights destination and what course to be heading. Cyprus Island was too close, we wanted to stay out of the southern end of Rosario due to the persistent fog, Linda had earlier stated she would like to go through Swinomish channel as did I.  I also thought a short stop over at La Conner might yield some ice cream for Jaiden. While anchored several other boats pulled into the small cove, I'm sure everyone was seeking shelter from the seas and wind.  While anchored I hanked on our 70% heavy jib and reefed the main to our second reef point. I raised the sails before we cleared the coves protection. The wind was still right on our nose so I set a close reaching course that would take us across Bellingham Bay and then on the return tack we would clear Vendovi Island and at that time would decide where to spend the night. By the time we had reached the mainland and needed to tack, I already shook out the reef and switched to our working jib, and then the wind just went away. 

We have been gone from last nights anchorage about four hours and I could still see the ferry at Lummi Island, we really needed to give up sailing and motor somewhere or risk being out after dark. 

 We have no problem navigating in the dark, it is eminently easier than fog, but we like to arrive in the day light and take a walk or short hike. We settle on Saddle Bag Island and start the motor.  Saddle Bag is a small 20+ acre Island marine park with a small shallow bay, when we arrive one other sailboat is anchored at the entrance to the bay, by morning there are two more, we circle the cove slowly checking depths and anchor to one side in about 10 feet of water. To check our swing, Jaiden drops the grapple from the dinghy before he paddles to shore. We can see  the people from the other boat on shore by a fire and Jaiden has joined them.  In a few minutes he paddles back and reports they are nice people, we all jump back in and head for shore.  After securing the dinghy we determine again that they are nice people and then excuse ourselves for a walk around the island.

After circling Saddlebag Island we find the sun has set on all the boats but (Sunshine) ours. 

We talk for awhile around the fire then head back to the boat for dinner.  Back on the boat we discover the water pump switch had been left on, and all our water is gone down the drain, plus the pump has burned up from running dry.  We have a half gallon or so in the cooler plus a couple smaller bottles laying about. We are all really hungry and very cold. We light the camp stove and start cooking two boxes of noodle helper (servings for eight I think) we also light the propane radiant heater, our one big candle, and our gimble mounted kerosene lantern.  Pretty soon we are warm enough to remove our coats. Dinner is consumed rapidly and we are all looking for more servings. It is about now that I discover the kerosene lantern flame is getting smaller and I cannot adjust it, I trim the wick to no avail. Something is wrong, 

I suspect we are burning up all the oxygen but no one is lightheaded or feeling stranger than usual. Linda says we need a Canary.

 To test my theory we set the lantern outside in the cockpit and the flame immediately burns brighter, brought back inside it drops back to half again. We test it several more times and then close the canvas door to keep the heat inside..  I'm more than a little concerned over what we have discovered,  regardless we blow out all the flames and shut off the propane, it's time for bed. I sleep like a log again, I wonder why. In the morning Linda and I get the propane heater going first thing, it's a small radiant heater that attaches to the small bottles. The heater is perfect for a small boat, but we worry about knocking it over and are considering some sort of mounting system. We make our coffee using some of our remaining jug water and raise anchor to quietly motor away. The water is flat calm with hardly a ripple, I leave the anchor suspended in the water hoping the boats motion would clean the mud and weeds off. Breakfast under way is coffee and some really hard bagels with cream cheese.  We seem to be benefiting from the incoming tide and I predict that as we get closer to Swinomish channel we will pick up more speed, but I'm wrong, the closer we get to the channel the  slower  we are moving.  I've never seen any publication with  channel predictions or even current flow directions, it seems to not make sense how the water can move out while the tide is coming in. Just as I think about increasing our engine speed I remember the anchor is still hanging from the bow, so I go forward to stow it properly.  Sure enough it is clean and weed free.  The tide is coming in but it is still very low water in Padilla Bay. The channel is well marked and a little narrow, we are meeting a lot of outbound boats, some are leaving  large wakes to bounce us around. Jaiden has appeared in the cockpit and wants to know where we are.  Linda is steering and we are moving only 2 mph, 

Jaiden and I both tell Linda that it looks like we are pointed toward shore, but she continues on course saying it looks right to her.

  I gently suggest that from her position it may look correct, but from where Jaiden and I are sitting, it looks like we are headed for land.

 Linda then says, something to the effect of "you can drive" and goes into the cabin.  Within seconds the boat runs into the soft mud bottom and comes to a halt with the motor still pushing. This is not the first or last time the boat has run aground. But it is the first time we have run aground right in front of a open railway bridge. By steering hard over I am able to use the motors thrust to slowly turn our stuck keel 180 degrees and then slide back out into the channel and resume our journey. 

Once past the railroad and twin highway bridges we are officially in Swinomish Channel, this is a man made channel connecting Padilla Bay with Skagit Bay. 

 If your unfamiliar with the area the names  mean little, but you should know that by connecting these two bays in 1937 the corp of army engineers created a nifty 11 mile detour allowing boaters to go around Deception Pass, missing the nasty currents, big waves and persistent fog. Using the channel also allows boaters to avoid all together the Strait of Juan De Fuca which can have its own behavior issues.  To overcome the opposing current we must run the motor at close to full throttle and only make a 2.5 mph over ground, so we of course run out of gas in short order.  I had earlier raised the main sail to help us along and now without the motor, the wind was holding our position so at least we weren't going backwards while I transferred gas.  This is the second time this trip I have filled the motors little 3 gallon tank  from my six gallon container on deck, this is pretty much all we have plus whats in the dinghy tank. Several more wakes rock us as I try not to spill any gas in the cockpit or any where else. As we approach La Conner we go right by the gas dock and I wonder if that's a mistake. The city maintains guest docks for short time and overnight visitors so we slide over and take about 40 feet for ourselves and the dinghy. (we have been towing the dinghy everywhere). Jaiden bounds off the boat looking for the restroom and I mistakenly tell him the wrong way to go (oops, sorry)  A local boat owner working on his vessel says hello, so I mention the current and how we have been all day coming from Saddle Bag.  

He says the current flows north for 23 1/2 hours and flows south for a 1/2 hour, and no one knows when the 1/2 hour is. I said thanks, that clears it up.

 Linda says, that explains why all the boat traffic is going the other way.  Main street with all the quaint shops and eatery's is only a hundred feet from the dock so we join the crowds on the sidewalk to stroll up one side and down the other hoping to be enticed by some irresistible aroma or ambiance.  We settle for ice cream for Jaiden and a block of ice for the boat, and then make sandwiches on board. When we cast off later I think it looks like the current has slowed some, sure enough the GPS confirms we are making about 4 mph, still not good for fuel economy, but better. I could  turn around and buy gas but push on hoping for favorable winds.

 Somewhere in the channel the navigation aids reverse colors, because red is on the right and green on the left when entering from either end.

 This is not confusing to me at all because we just steer between the red and greens regardless. When we enter Skagit bay we are faced with a straight well marked channel leading us safely across a mile of mud flats, and I remember a skipper a while back complaining how he had run aground here, and he was in the marked area.  Linda is steering while I manage the sails and I can see the channel markers are not in a straight line like the official chart shows them.  Of course all charts have a disclaimer warning not to use them as your sole source of information. (thanks) Linda is keeping a sharp eye on on the depth which is only 12 feet. We are now less than five miles to Cornet Bay and Deception Pass, we have a light wind and the motor is only needed sparingly. As we make our way north four navy patrol boats go by us at high speed, twenty minutes later they return in the same formation only three this time. Judging their speed they must have gone through the pass into the strait of Juan De Fuca a short distance turned and came right back minus their leader. An hour later we approach the dock we had been tied to a week earlier and tie up in the same spot. Margarette and Mackee are gone of course, most of the big anchored boats are still there. Jaiden grabs his pole and mixes in with the fisherman on the dock.  Linda and I go about organizing the boat, we will eat and sleep on the boat tonight, and then in the morning, load her onto the trailer, unstep the mast and head for home. As I motor the dinghy towards the ramp for loading on the roof of the car I can't resist turning away and racing at full throttle, the dinghy planes very well with only one person, skipping lightly over the water. 

In a minute I find myself without my life jacket heading for Deception Pass determined to shoot through Canoe Pass and  circle Pass Island.

 I think for a second if this is a wise move, then slowly  turn back to pick up Jaiden and both our jackets for one last ride through the pass.  

Canoe Pass on the right, is all but invisible 

Click below to see a satellite view of Inati Bay on Lummi Island