Wrong, my chart shows it as Pass Island, and that name makes perfect sense. But is there a Deception Island?
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Deception Island seems to float between haze and still water. |
- WRONG. Most places, including beaches, are private property and you will be trespassing on shore. We as boaters are limited to parks, preserves, resorts, etc.
The problem is that our charts do not show all there is to know.
This is a small five site waterfront campground within the 650 plus acre Lummi Island Conservation Area. It is a very hard to find place, the picture posted and my description will be your best resource for finding your way.
For those of you new to the area, Lummi Island is that big land mass blocking your way to just about everywhere when you put in at Squalicum Harbor in Bellingham.
The campground is near the south end of Lummi on the east side. Your NOAA based chart will show Smugglers Cove, Inati Bay, Reil Harbor in that order, just south of the small Reil inlet is an even smaller cove. There is no name but your chart should have a little boat symbol which is the icon for a mooring area but don't get your hopes up, this is a dinky little cove that will require a stern tie or anchor to keep you from swinging onto the rocks. You can pull off a 2 to 1 rode lunch stop if your lucky. It is unlikely two boats can coexist unless they raft.
By now you should have figured out this place is perfect for kayakers, but you can squeeze in. The dinghy beach is gravel. Use the campfire rings and composter outhouse. There is even a loop trail to hike.
Look for this sign as you coast along the shore, it is high up on the bluff on the right side of the cove facing somewhat southward.
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| The pic looks big but from the water the sign is small and easy to miss. |
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| If overnighting or spending any time here you will want to tie to shore or drop a stern anchor to keep you from swinging onto rocks. |
In an earlier post I made a wish list for my summer travels, this is a follow up. But first a link to my earlier post so readers may see what I wanted to do and compare that with what we really did.
Because of a hectic summer with two weddings and a Boston trip we almost stayed home, but just before Labor Day I said lets go or forever wish we had. On the morning of our departure we were battening down and about to hit I-5 north when a neighbor came walking by. He is also a San Juan traveler so we ended up talking for two hours.
Finally heading out, we immediately stopped to fill the trucks 33 gallon tank, next stop besides the usual rest areas was Seattle where we picked up another 29 gallons. It is always a shock to find out we only have a few gallons left when I am hauling 10,000 lbs. Next stop was Winco in Tulalip where we purchased our entire food and beverage supply. No shopping list for us, we just walked the aisles and filled the cart with everything we liked, except we forgot to get a sack of ice for our drinks even though we talked about it in the check out line.
took the port of Bellingham exit and went straight to Fred Meyers for the forgotten ice. I am thinking, I hope this 30-40 minute delay doesn't bite us, especially after losing 2 hours gabbing at home. (see, no stress for me!)
Splashing the boat and parking in the free lot was a breeze as it always is, but hosing down my salty trailer got me all wet because the water hose is full of holes. ( zero kudos to Squalicum Harbor staff in charge of wash down hoses.)
Staying at the transient dock and paying the tourist per foot fee just didn't interest me this trip, I wanted to get underway. I said to Linda, we have one solid hour of daylight and I can anchor in the dark at Inati Bay if I have to, so off we went. We arrived at Inati Bay on Lummi Island almost exactly at sunset. I set the anchor in fifteen feet, thirty feet from shore, opened the first box of wine and broke out the barbecue as darkness settled around us. I remember looking at the ink black water and the nearby shore cliffs blending together and thinking how anchoring in the dark would have meant dropping the hook a lot further out.
Last night was great, stars were out. Actually slept in a little. We listened to the weather radio for conditions expected if we head for Victoria. Sounds like a go but I'm not sure. With deteriorating conditions expected that evening we might be headed into a gale if the front blows in early, but at this point I am set for going to Victoria.
We up anchor and head south around Lummi so I can get a better picture of the Lummi Island Campground sign (takes two minutes), when we clear the south end and head northwest, I'm staring right at Clark Island, Clark is another on my bucket list of places I need new pictures for my planned updated Cruising Guide. We grab a buoy at Clark and dinghy ashore. I haven't changed my negative opinion of Clark but I did get the pics I wanted. Linda thinks I'm unfairly maligning Clark but I am more convinced than ever that putting a state park in the middle of Rosario Strait is a dumb, bordering on dangerous idea.
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This is the view of the trail leading off the beach at Clark to the well hidden six site campground. To find this trail, anchor or use a buoy in the cove on the east side of Clark. Now walk all the way to the very far south end (left end) until you are blocked by boulders and cliffs. There it is, you can't miss it. All the other dozen or so camp sites are waterfront along the beach. |
The good news is that the arguments of who owns what and where are pretty much settled. The bad news is that, as a boater staring across the water at some desirable beach or mudflat (if there is such a thing) you don’t know what to do, or where to land.
You can walk most beaches, below the normal high water line, but many properties own the adjacent tidelands and may or may not be marked. Not all shorelines have beaches and so private land will extend to the water’s edge. Most of the dry land (above high water) is private and you will be trespassing if you come ashore and hike into the woods. Some landowners don’t care if you come ashore, and some do. Many will have signs that alert you to their wishes and you should respect their wishes. If it were me I would not anchor off shore from a sign that said no trespassing, why ruffle someone’s feathers by anchoring or walking in their backyard.
Who’s not for being an environmentalist? Just move along, there’s plenty of other places to drop a hook.
At resorts and marinas, (Roche, Friday, Deer, Rosario, Fishermans, etc, etc etc., you will usually see boats anchored nearby, just follow their lead and anchor your boat too. Ask someone where the dinghy dock is and go spend some money. You may be thinking, how long can I anchor and what’s the cost, so I remind you it’s public, it's free, and you can anchor as long as you want.
There are some exceptions, but we don’t need to discuss them now, or ever, so go have a good cruising day.
So here's the rub, why are there so many witless morons creating monster wakes where they cause damage? I don't believe for a second that they aren't aware of their wake. I believe they are jerks and inconsiderate asses that don't deserve the privilege of driving a boat.
I'm not saying to drive slow or at no-wake speed all the time, I'm saying to pay attention to the damage your wake is doing. Not only are you being an ass but you are liable for damage or injury caused by your negligent driving.
If your wake swamps or rolls a small boat, you are liable. If your wake smashes a moored boat into a float causing damage, you are liable. If your wake capsizes a kayak causing a drowning, you will be held liable and probably go to jail.
If you think this is only true in marked no-wake zones, think again, you are wrong. You are responsible for your wake damage anywhere and everywhere, marked or not. That 200-foot rule many signs and publications tout is not your free pass to be irresponsible, you are still liable for damage your wake causes.
There, I'm done.
Many years ago I happened to have over to my house, for reasons I don’t remember, a person that mentioned he had circumnavigated. He asked would I like to see some of his pictures.
Of course I said yes, so for the next several hours I was enthralled by this sailor’s story and pictures from around the world. I have incorporated some of what he said into my own thinking and actions, after all what we learn from others may be hard earned by them, but free to us.
This brings me to bean bag chairs and boats. This unnamed world cruiser said that his favorite chair for his boat was a bean bag. A bean bag, you’re kidding, do they still make them? Well, yes they make them and $20 later I had a brand new bean bag chair for my 28 foot sloop. I store it in the v-berth along with bags of sails. My kids quickly learned that it conformed to uneven decks, it could be crammed against shrouds, masts and stanchions, and made uncomfortable cockpit combings a thing of the past. The bean bag chair has become a must have piece of cruising/camping equipment on my boats, and while it’s true, storage is limited, tough decisions have to be made -- the bag-o-beans wins out even if it means leaving the 150 Genoa home.
and a boat ramp with a float. You can reserve your campsite in advance, launch and retrieve your boat every day to make day trips or take an extended cruise into the islands knowing your campground is waiting for you when you return. You may also choose to not stay at the campground, just launch your boat, and leave your car and trailer in the long-term parking lot while you're in the San Juans.
and a travel lift to launch your boat, they can also assist in stepping sailboat masts. Guest space is usually available at the dock and long-term parking for your car and trailer are just steps away. You should make arrangements ahead of time for the travel lift and guest docks
There are several other places I recommend over these two depending on where I'm going and other plans.
Take a look at this post >> Trailer boat ramps
Places to go, and places to travel are easy to find in the San Juans. For me, cheap travel is part of the deal. What can be less expensive than going on a cruise with your own boat, it's like having your own condo rental or vacation house with you all the time. Okay maybe boat camping is a little squeezed, but the big problem is, where do you launch, and where do you leave your car for a week or more? Squalicum Harbor in Bellingham is a resounding first choice and parking is free, (Update: better check with harbormaster) no others come close for time, distance, convenience, or facilities, none in my opinion.!
Marked on the chart above with red dots is a four lane two float, all tide modern 24/7 ramp, parking, and overnight visitor docks. The parking lot is huge and they have an overflow lot too. Freshwater wash-down hoses are free for you to use. The ramp fee is $5 and there is no parking fee, that's right it's free, even long-term is free. (call about free) How cheap can you travel, ( I mean less expensive) Next to the parking area is a restaurant, 24-hour bathrooms, and showers. Across the street is a marine store. Out on the floats, they have transient boater dock space. Payment is self-serve at the automated kiosks.
You may think by looking at maps that Bellingham is far from the Islands, but it is actually the closest jump-off point for travel to Sucia, Matia, Patos and Stuart. For those camping and traveling on a budget it's your only choice.link to really great map with parks marked, click here
Study this map and familiarize yourself with names and places.
(Find Victoria, Roche Harbor, Swinomish Channel, Deception Pass)
(Your going to Canada and back, did you remember to bring your passports and Children ID's? the rules are changing)
and its probably late in the day and your tired, so lets plan on spending the night right here on the boat securely tied to the dock at Cornet Bay. You will pay a launch fee and $10/day parking, plus 50 cents a foot for spending night at dock. Pay at the self serve kiosk. If your not sure of when your coming back simply estimate, leave a note explaining, the ranger will understand. The ramp is very good, all tide. The parking is huge, you will not have a problem.
There is a very minimal park store, but you should have done your provisioning in Anacortes.
but first you must time the pass. You should already be familiar with the tide levels and times at Deception Pass (download a page from any of of dozens of sites including NOAA) so cast off at high or low tide. You can be half an hour early or late, this gives you a one hour window. (it takes just ten minutes to reach the pass from the dock) If you are catching a falling tide (current is going out to sea) you can be very late but standing waves may scare you and the crew as you take a fast sled ride and shoot out into the Strait of Juan De Fuca. If you are late and head out on a rising tide, your boat may not have enough speed to overcome the in rushing torrent, and your stuck until the next slack water. The pass is not a problem, it is narrow with the fastest water for only about 250 feet, but slow sailboats can meet their match every four to six hours.
Well when I anchored my day sailor for the summer, I threw together a folding anchor, six feet of chain, some twenty feet of old trucker floating line, an old fender for a float and set the whole thing in about eight feet of water. But first I hooked the chain and rode together with a galvanized shackle. I tightened the shackle pin with a wrench.
My only worry was too much rode and she might swing onto shore at low tide. My little cove is subject to about two feet of tide, no rogue wakes, no current and very little wind.
After about two weeks of coming and going by dinghy, and sailing on and off my poor mans mooring, I was pretty used to and confident my set up was there to stay. Then one afternoon when I showed up I noticed my anchor line was changed. Suspicious, I leaned over the side of the dinghy and yanked to the surface my anchor except it wasn't my folding anchor, it was some cast iron thing I have never seen. I put it back, left my dinghy at the fender float and went sailing, all the time pondering what was going on.
At dusk I came in and switched back to the dinghy, on my way out of the cove I swung by a young chap working on his boat and inquired if he knew anything about my missing anchor and rode.
He said yes, he had noticed my boat was floating free one day and using a spare anchor he put it back where it belonged. I thanked him profusely and brought him a bottle of rum the next day.
The lesson I learned that day was to use seizing wire even for temporary things if failure is unacceptable. I also learned how smart my choice of the quiet cove was for my anchor buoy and that I still had some paying forward credits after all.
FYI - A few days later from the dinghy, I probed the muddy bottom for two hours with my 12 foot boat hook and snagged my gear getting it all back including the shackle and loose pin. I replaced the borrowed anchor and this time I wired the pin, and that's my story.
Starting your kayaking adventure from Deer Harbor, with its calm waters, can be a great option for exploring the surrounding areas. Roche Harbor, known for its resort and as a departure point for trips to Canada, is another nearby destination that adds to the appeal of Jones Island. Additionally, Friday Harbor, the largest city and port in the San Juan Islands, is relatively close, making it easily accessible for supplies or further exploration.
With its strategic location and the variety of neighboring destinations, Jones Island offers a great balance between tranquility and accessibility. It can be an ideal choice for families looking to enjoy boat camping and explore the beauty of the San Juan Islands.
All of Jones is a state park, the north cove is preferred by power boaters and sailors alike, inside you will find a protected bay with docks and anchor buoys, plus room to anchor if the five buoys are in use.
The North Cove is absolutely wonderful, There is a brand new dock, anchor buoys, a steep gravel beach (good for dinghy's), and room to anchor. The cove is protected from all but the worst north winds (very infrequent) On shore are lots of tent sites, each with picnic table and fire rings. There is a nice mowed lawn area for games and grazing deer. Bathrooms and running water are clean, cool, clear and convenient.
The island has several hiking trails, rated, easy and moderate. From the trails are magnificent views of the surrounding islands, and waters. Bring your camera to Jones, you will want to preserve the memories to show your friends that aren't as fortunate as you.
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| I don't remember where this is - sorry |
Note: these are not ideas I am suggesting for you, (okay maybe a little) they are places I am thinking about for me to see again.
If you are a newbie, you should go to tried and true hot spots like Roche - Friday - Jones - Sucia - La Conner - Deception Pass. Use the search box - it's all there and then some.
If you have been around the San Juan's awhile you may be looking for new ideas, that's what my list is about. Dates don't really matter, these places are timeless.
Okay, that's about it. It's not much to choose from. Because of the miles involved, I don't see us visiting Victoria, Vancouver and Nanaimo on the same trip. I'll let this simmer for awhile and see what floats to the top. Lately we have fallen into the trap of repeating what we are comfortable with. I don't know if that is good or bad, but now I'm thinking of adding Jones Island to the list. So should I not go to Jones because I really enjoy it and feel comfortable there? Seems counterproductive to avoid visiting somewhere you really like.
The San Juans have high and low tides every day, some very high, some very low. This means you will need to be prepared to deal with going ashore at locations lacking floats. The easiest solution is to bring a dinghy; if you don't have a dinghy I suggest you buy a cheap inflatable boat or 2 person kayak for around $75. Once in the San Juans most people simply tow the dinghy everywhere they go, or deflate and stow it away. Those of you going in a ski boat or skiff may be thinking you can beach your boat, which will work, but only for a few minutes. On a falling tide in ten minutes your boat may be high and dry, unless you can carry it, your stuck until the tide comes back up. On a rising tide your boat will float away while you're on shore. Since your going to anchor in six feet of water at low tide you will need one hundred feet or more of anchor rode to accommodate a ten foot plus increase at high tide. Smart boaters bring two anchors and rode and a dinghy they can carry up above high tide.
San Juan currents are notorious, and the root of many stories. For fast planing boats you can pretty much ignore adverse current; however slower boats live and die by planning passages to get an assist from the current. A typical sailboat may putt along at 4.5 mph, against a 2.5 mph current their real speed over ground is 2 mph. Going with the same current their sog is 7 mph. So a ten mile passage takes 5 hours the dumb way or 1 hour 25 minutes the smart way. There are many prediction and forecast books and charts available and online. While you don't need a publication, I recommend that you buy something and keep it with you. I would also go online and print out a tide schedule for the time and area you expect to cruise. CLICK BELOW for Rosario Strait at Guemes Channel
You can get lost in the dark, in the fog, or just plain lost on a sunny day. You need to bring with you a chart, and you would be smart to protect it from getting wet or torn up. I sandwich mine between two clear acrylic sheets held together with velcro.
Some will say the chart needs to be new and of the highest resolution, which may be true for ship captains and other navigators. What were talking about here is not getting lost, even a google print out may do the trick. If you are going to boat in the fog you must have a compass, and GPS, a portable handheld GPS will do fine and some new phones may do the trick too. (in thick fog you will go in circles and be totally disoriented without a compass) A gps will not replace a compass in rough water and fog, a gps is much too slow reacting when you are getting spun from broadsides or quartering waves (broaching) you need both. Many times in the San Juans visibility may be down to 3 or 4 miles and you think you can sneak across some open water to the next island, and you probably can, but if the fog thickens to pea soup you will be glad you have your compass and GPS. BTW, fast boats can't always go fast when waves and swells stack up. And only very dumb skippers go fast when they can't see.
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| See the ferry approaching the anchored sailboat? |
OK, here's some bad news for sailors. The San Juans are not known for great sailing winds in July and August. Out in the straits (Haro, Rosario, Georgia, Juan De Fuca)
you may get some decent sailing, but inside the islands, don't bet on it.
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| Sailing in April rain with reefed main |
Most likely you won't have any problems with crowds except on the 4th of July and Labor Day. The good side is that you will always find a place to anchor, even on holidays, the dinghy ride may just be a little longer for some. Most marinas take reservations and you may as well take them up on it, but you don't need to. I suggest you slow down a little and enjoy the freedom of not planning ahead, take one day at a time and see where you go. Lastly, because this area is so close to Bellingham and Anacortes many boaters are day boaters. At the end of the day they head for home, leaving some resorts and parks half empty, especially on weekend Sunday nights. Monday or Tuesday are good days to begin your outing if you want to be alone.
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| Fourth of July celebration in the San Juan Islands at Roche Harbor Resort |
DNR buoys are free (Cypress Island) State Park buoys are $10, many park floats are 50 cents a foot, Marinas charge between 75 cents and $2 a foot. Gasoline is a little more expensive than on land, but not much more. Food, groceries, ice are just a little more than the mainland but very fair priced overall.
Plan a minimum of four days, but up to two weeks depending on what you like to do. (I like to sit on the dock at Jones Island and read my book between naps and walks, then I make a campfire in a empty tent site and cook Kielbasa followed by a glass of wine. Then retire to my boat for a good nights sleep. The next day, do it again)
Salt water drys sticky and does not suds up well with soap, you will get it all over you and your boat, count on it. After a week you will look forward to a shower. Your boat will be covered with salt crystals. Most marinas have little water and don't want you washing your boat.
Squalicum Harbor in Bellingham has boat and trailer fresh water wash down hoses in the parking lot. You should use them each time you dunk your trailer.
For the most part you will want to provision before you leave on the boat. Anacortes and Bellingham have all the big stores and each has a West Marine store. All the resorts and towns have grocery stores, if you drive a fast boat, supply's may be only minutes away, putt putt's should work a store visit into your circuit. I say circuit because most cruisers will follow a circle of some sort trying to hit many stops. We find that ice needs renewing after four days, so a stop over at Friday Harbor, Deer Harbor, Roche Harbor, Blakelys, or Orcas landing fills the bill. All these places except Orcas, have gas and showers. Showers will cost a handful of quarters so be quick or be poor. Cold showers are free. Lopez Village has free showers but no dock so you will need a dinghy.how to dinghy to Lopez village
All the parks are pack it in and pack it out, the marinas have dumpsters. If you are new to boat camping you will find garbage to be a pain because you are not used to storing everything in your boat. Little things like empty water bottles suddenly take space you don't have. You must give careful thought to what you are bringing, and the garbage it will generate. We don't use disposable bottles, minimize pop consumption, and try to have campfires to burn burnable trash. It is against the law to toss anything, (even a apple core) in the water.
Your dogs must be on a leash, period, everywhere. Raccoon's are on all islands and will climb right into your boat or kayak in the day time if you let them. Deer are all over too, but they shy away, except on Jones Island where you can hand feed them.
Otters live under most floats and docks, they will crawl all over your boat, get into things and make a mess. Otters also will mark their territory by pooing on your stuff, dock lines are a favorite.
All the parks have nice composting toilets, (each island mentioned for overnight is a park) the rangers service all parks on a regular basis. You will be pleasantly surprised at how clean the facilities are.
Bring your cell phone and charger, bring at least a portable handheld marine radio, bring basic first aid kit, call the Coast Guard, they can be there pretty fast, or arrange for vessel assist on your credit card, bring a friend with a similar boat, then you can help each other.
Before you pack up and get on your way, let's define what free means and where the San Juan Islands are located. For some, free may mean no charge for camping but may fail to add in the cost of a new boat or kayak and tons of gear. For others, anything less than the price of a five star hotel and plane ticket is a steal.
The San Juans are arguably defined as part of an archipelago including but not limited to the islands of San Juan County Washington. Therefore, including nearby islands with other zip codes seems appropriate when planning a camping trip to the San Juan's
All are first come and no reservations and only accessible by boat. All are pack it in and pack it out. Facilities are maintained by local volunteers and clubs.
Five campsites, each with tables, fire rings, one pit toilet. Bring your kayaks ashore or anchor off and come ashore by dinghy. One anchor buoy is provided. Enter this latitude and longitude into google search or your gps or your boats plotter to find the campsite 48.475944 N, 123.009857 W Another method would be to cruise along the west shore of Griffin Bay ( San Juan Island side) looking for a beach landing and buoy halfway between Fourth of July Beach and Low Point on your NOAA chart.
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| Griffin Bay free camping |
Three campsites, fire rings and a toilet are on this lonely and exposed point on the north side of Orcas Island. Use this lat. and long. to locate on a map or chart, 48°42'42.2 N, 122°56'58.3 W
Lummi Island Campground is reached from a small cove on the southeast side of Lummi Island
just south of Smugglers Cove, Inati Bay, and Reil Harbor.
Your best landmark clue will be the sign on the bluff.
click here>> Easy directions to Lummi Island Campground
This kayaker and boaters and hikers dream destination is on Cypress Island a short 5 mile paddle from Anacortes or Washington Park. Cypress head is the eastern most tip of Cypress Island jutting out into Bellingham Channel just north of Deepwater Bay. The gps coordinates are 48.568919 N, 122.670692 W
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| Cypress Head point creates a nice protected bay with anchor balls and a very dinghy and kayak friendly gravel beach. Trails connecting to the the rest of the island are across the narrow isthmus. |
This free waterfront campground on Cypress Island is very popular with kayakers, power boaters, sail boaters, everyone likes Pelican Beach. It even has ADA compliant composting toilets. The shore is lined with about half a dozen campsites, each with tables and fire rings, directly offshore are anchor buoys. The easy trail up to the top of Eagle Bluff begins at the water edge. To find Pelican Beach simply follow the east side of Cypress Island north about one mile past the Eagle Harbor anchorage. If you run past the end of the island, turn around, you're a quarter mile too far. Here are the coordinates. 48.603400 N, 122.704134 W
That's it for free camping in the San Juan Island area. The Washington DNR has lots more free camping in other areas that are highway accessible.
Click here for a complete DNR map. or copy and paste this url. https://wadnr.maps.arcgis.com/apps/Shortlist/index.html?appid=98a7fe4ea3764440ad59f0d9b0b280e3
To view larger image, try right-clicking and open in new window and then look for plus/minus icon.
The best way, is by clicking or pasting the url below and you may then enlarge the image without it being blurry.
https://file.dnr.wa.gov/publications/amp_rec_updated_cypress_island_trail_map.pdf?yh0w7u
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| Cypress Island trail map |
Over the years, camping aficionados tend to collect everything needed. They learn from painful experience what not to forget - again. Packing for them is just a matter of grabbing prepacked gear. They store it stuffed into one pack, one closet, or in my case, one group of Rubbermaid boxes. Everything is kept together so that when it is time to load up and go nothing important is forgot or left behind. We call ours "camping gear," and "camping boxes," and all of it is stored on the "camping shelves."
In our gear boxes you will find rolls of aluminum foil with only six inches left, dead spray cans, water logged matches, and barely functioning openers, corkscrews and rusty grimy pliers. Did I leave out dim flashlights?
Rather than list a truly massive list of mostly unneeded items, I thought I would attempt to list the important things that really impact me when forgot. Like my sleeping bag or coat, both I have forgot.
This is a boat camping list,
not surprisingly, it doubles as a car camping list:
Some of the items don't belong in a gear box (like clothing) but should be listed.
For those of you that need more, try my
Mother of all packing lists - click here > Mother of all packing lists
