Worst Places and Attractions in the San Juan Island Cruising Area.

While perusing some San Juan articles, I came across a comment that recommended going to Spencer Spit.  My first thought was. That's bad advice. Why would they give bad advice?  I thought some more and decided, #1 Maybe they don't know any better.  #2 Maybe just for them, it was an okay visit. #3 Perhaps I am wrong.  And that is how I came to create this negative San Juan Island article.

It is more than a little subjective to name off so-called second-rate or low-rated anything.  But if you think about it, we have no problem talking up all the really great places, so for the very same reasons, we should also talk about the crappy ones.  And at the very least, explain why or what makes them such.

So here's a no-no list followed by explanations for their inclusion.  Keep in mind, these reviews are from a boater's perspective.  My goal here is to save cruisers some frustration or disappointment when using their limited time and resources to visit less-than-great destinations.

Spencer Spit

This forested state park on Lopez Island really is a winner for land travelers, but vacationers arriving by boat are faced with a windswept anchor field, no dock and the shoreside restrooms are a quarter mile or more walk after they land the dinghy.  When a boater does make it off the spit and into the campground, they may walk around, but we have always felt out of place after all,  it is a car traveler campground.  Out on the spit, which extends substantially out into Lopez Sound, the wind is more often than not blowing and a little chilly.  Those in boats will be hunkered down even on sunny days.    

What is good at Spencer Spit?  It is conveniently located on a main thoroughfare, and regardless of wind direction, you can anchor or hook a buoy on the lee side of the spit, shielding you from most wind waves, but not local wakes and not the wind.  

Are there alternatives? Always, nearby James Island offers two protected bays.  A little farther away, Fisherman Bay offers no buoys but does have acres of easy anchoring room.  A real plus at Spencer Spit State Park is the bicycle rental concession.

Blind Bay

What does blind Bay have that boaters want?  Well, for starters, it is really big, but there are no buoys, there is no dock, it is not a park.  There is no public land on shore; you can't land your dinghy without trespassing.  At the entrance are a few charted rocks that occasionally cause careless skippers to run aground.

So why do boaters go to Blind Bay?  Apparently, to hang on the hook and sit on the boat.  We can stay home and do that.  Or, it could be, they just want a large, mostly wake-free, somewhat wind-sheltered place to anchor and do nothing.  I should note that some boaters new to the San Juans may believe they are allowed to only anchor in certain places.  That is simply not true, with few exceptions, you can anchor anywhere you want.  Using some common sense makes sense. It would be silly to block traffic or park your boat, creating a hazard.  And anchoring on the side of a busy channel will be something you will soon regret, but there are innumerable bays, nooks, coves and crannies where you can snuggle up and spend the day or night.  Keep in mind that virtually all shoreline is private and you may be bedding down in what someone thinks is their backyard.

Eagle Harbor

My rant. Certain people are quick to point out that some places we cruise and I write about are technically not part of the San Juans. Eagle Harbor on Cypress Island is one of them. But so is Anacortes, Deception Pass, Bellingham, and a host of others. You will be hard-pressed to cruise the San Juans without visiting or using non-San Juan Islands resources.

Back at Eagle Harbor. The buoy numbers change depending on maintenance, but there are about twenty anchor buoys that pretty much fill the modest-sized bay. On shore, back in the woods, is an old-style pit outhouse and no campground or any facilities whatsoever. I watched DNR deliver (helicopter) to Cypress Lake a new composter restroom kit, so as of this writing, I would bet the outhouse at Eagle Harbor has been upgraded as well, but that may be a bad bet. Unfortunately 95% of the shoreline  at Eagle Harbor is soft and mucky with lots of grass in the shallow waters, making landing a dinghy a real chore, and sure to get your feet wet. There is a ten-foot sandy/gravel beach on the far south side where we land dinghies when we hike to the old airstrip or Cypress Lake.

I think maybe the reason people visit here is because of the many free buoys and access to the vast trail system; however, not many hike the trails. At any given time, most or all the buoys will be occupied, but there will not be a single dinghy on shore. Hikers generally start at Pelican Beach, about a mile north of Eagle Harbor. At Pelican Beach are buoys, room to anchor, restrooms, camp sites, and the trailhead to Eagle Bluff.  I highly recommend Pelican Beach.

So why is Eagle Harbor so popular? I think it is just like Spencer Spit and Blind Bay. Lots of positive but misguided reviews from people who don't get off the boat and are not comfortable anchoring. Don't get me wrong, it is okay to anchor at these places, they just don't offer anything except a place to anchor. To me, it is like flying to Hawaii and camping in the airport parking lot.

What are the alternatives to Eagle Harbor? Just a bit north is Pelican Beach, a bit south is Cypress Head. Both have anchor buoys, both have trails, both have gravel dinghy beaches, both have campgrounds and restrooms, and all are Free DNR recreation areas.

Clark Island  

Oh boy, I am going to ruffle some feathers here. Clark Island is not much more than a speed bump in the middle of Rosario Strait. On a sunny, warm, windless day, it is very inviting, but its exposed location makes it subject to the whims and tantrums of Rosario Strait.

Wonderful place to beach comb and picnic, but don't forget that you are in the
middle of Rosario Strait

We have had waves breaking over our bow while tied to an anchor buoy. One time, we aborted going ashore because simply getting into the dinghy was too dangerous. I can only imagine the difficulties a shore camper or a kayaker would experience at Clark Island if caught off guard by the weather. You could easily arrive on an ebb tide, a southerly breeze, and flat waters like the picture shows. While exploring on shore or picnicking, the current reverses to flood and waves begin to build. By the time you notice the white caps, you may be in trouble.

Clark Island is totally exposed to Rosario. The buoys and beaches on both sides of this narrow strip of island (around 100 feet in one place) have zero protection.

I'm not saying don't go there for an enjoyable lunch or strolling the beach. (There are no trails) I am saying I would not spend the night. If you needed to access your boat or get to shore, the waves may get in your way. wind versus current results in waves

Alternatives for spending the night? Sure. Go further north to Matia or Sucia. Or consider Inati Bay, on the east side of Lummi Island, or even run down to Cypress.

Olga

I had to think long about Olga before including it on this list. I like Olga and have always enjoyed my visits. I included it because it offers so little compared to the marine parks. My understanding is that the Olga dock is private, it was built and is maintained by the local residents, and they welcome guests, including overnight. I really do like Olga and look forward to more visits, but I think boaters should get an honest review so they know what to expect and may plan accordingly.  

I copied and pasted below an Olga review that I wrote long ago. 

       On shore at the top of the Olga ramp is a flagpole, and a memorial bench. 

There are a couple blocks, if that, of roads to walk, some say private drive, keep out.  There is no bathroom.  The old store across the street was closed up many years ago, and the property is for sale, but the little post office is in business.  Up a moderately steep hill about 1/4-1/3 mile is a restaurant/gallery on the main road. Some other boaters made the hike and reported good food.  Other than private homes, most which look like second homes, there is no other business.  That's it for Olga.  I'm glad we finally stopped by Olga, but except for a nice dock to tie up to, and a pleasant little bay to paddle and dinghy sail, what more can I say?  

I have heard via the grapevine (2024) that a coop has reopened the store on the corner. 

Obstruction Pass

Oh boy, here we go again. This is a state park that is also accessed by road. The state anchored a buoy or two offshore which strongly suggests this would be a good place to spend the night tied to their buoy. No, it would not, and it is an even worse idea to anchor regardless of how good your ground tackle and experience level. This is a lee shore, simply look at all the driftwood piled up and imagine how it got there and then think about how your boat would fare.

Take a look at your chart and you will see that waves and wind may come all the way from the south end of Lopez Sound. About 10 miles. This is the same corridor that blows at Spencer Spit.

Okay, now that you get the picture, realize that summer storms are rare, that driftwood probably floated up in the winter, all true, mostly. The real problem here is the wakes from boats coming and going through Obstruction Pass. We have enjoyed stopping for a quick hike in the woods. There's a great viewpoint looking up East Sound but the boat was rock and rolled, the cupboards dumped out and we had to pull the dinghy completely clear of the wakes.

A quick stop at Obstruction Pass Park is okay but I wouldn't consider staying very long and certainly not overnight. Sleepy, calm Olga is less than two miles away. public docks and floats

American Camp

This list is for boaters, not land yachters. I have included American Camp simply to warn boaters that it is very difficult to come ashore and hike to the interpretation center. American Camp is part of our history and certainly deserves your visit. Looking at a map and seeing the camps proximity to both Haro Strait and Griffin Bay might lead someone to think they can easily stop by. We got lost after taking the dinghy ashore and trying to hike over from the Griffin Bay side.

Shaw County Park

This is a regular county park/campground, much like Odlin and San Juan. There is no dock, the boat ramp is shallow and the bay (Indian Cove) is very shallow a long way out. Coming ashore here is going to get you wet ankles for sure, which is okay if there was something worthwhile. For bicycle explorers, your best bet is to dock next to the ferry landing or, better yet, come over from Friday Harbor on the regular ferry. Free ride to Shaw Island

Twin Bridges Ramp

You can use this ramp, I have, but be forewarned.  The place has lots of reports of theft.  Its isolated parking lot and ramp under the bridge is just inviting bad guys.  You pay to park, including long-term. The ramp is short and the float does not reach the water at low tide.  The sideways current on Swinomish channel can make launching a major challenge.

Alternatives:  Downtown La Conner has a decent residential ramp with a float, but you have the same current issues.  Washington Park in Anacortes has a lot to offer, I highly recommend it or Cornet Bay.   use these ramps

Skagit Island

Again, this island state park is not in the San Juans.  It is located just a couple of miles east of Deception Pass.  It has a single campsite, a questionable buoy, or you must anchor in weeds, rocks, and some strong currents.  If that doesn't scare you off, the ten-minute hiking trail circling the island has some drop-offs hidden in the bushes that will send your kids down a short cliff into the water.  I know my description will attract the gunkholers;  it did me.  So be forewarned.

Lime Kiln Park

Lime Kiln, aka Whale Watch Park gets a lot of well-deserved publicity as a place to watch for whales. However, it is not a good idea to take your boat offshore to see whales. Transiting the area is okay, but hanging out is not going to up your chances of spotting any, and may actually, inadvertently get you in trouble.

places not listed, private islands, etc

The San Juans cruising area, and for the most part, all of Washington, is full of private islands and private shoreline.  You will be trespassing if you go ashore somewhere other than a park or recognized public facility.  You will see many keep out signs and just because there is no sign does not mean you will be welcome — count on it.  Locals welcome tourists but some tourists wear out their welcome, please don't be one of them